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  • #16
    TucsonJim , ncitro Yoda howson

    First let me say how much I appreciate all the advise. I've gone through several of the forums and you all consistently provide answers and advise to help the GD community have better experiences with their respective rigs. You don't get as much credit as you should, in my opinion. I for one am grateful.

    To start, I took TucsonJim's advise to record settings for the below items.

    ​​​​​​​1. Record the battery voltage from your BMV712 before you turn on any devices. Make sure everything is turned off, including your inverter. - Voltage was 13.6 - 80% SoC,
    2. Turn on your loads such as the coffee pot and record your voltage while under load. - Voltage dropped to 12.45 - only power running was a coffee maker for about 10 minutes or so
    3. When finished brewing your coffee, turn everything off including 12V draws such as the refrigerator, wait five minutes, and then record your voltage. Voltage at 13.19 - SoC 68%

    Based on the numbers above I'm assuming this would be an expected power consumption. The dealer we purchased our rig from did the solar/inverter/battery installation and, based on comments, probably should have used a higher gauge wire. If I go the DIY route and pull the 1/0 and replace with 2/0 would I only need to replace the wiring from the batteries to the inverter and the jumpers between batteries, or would I need to replace any wiring that was less than 2/0? I will check the settings on the inverter to see if those could be contributing to my issue. I had been leaving the inverter on but this last trip only turned it on when power was needed. I could see an increase in power draw, on vs. off, but wasn't significant. However over a period of time could have an impact?

    While we were camping this past weekend I brought our generator (Honda 2000) just in case. I did run it for about 45 minutes to put an additional charge on the batteries and the voltage went all the way up to 14.46 while the most I've gotten off the solar panels is 13.93. I was wondering if the 320 watts of solar is not sufficient to bring the batteries to a full charge?

    Overall I have some work to do to better optimize my system. Programming the Victron will be easy but replacing the wiring will be a bigger project. I'll post updates as I get through it all.

    Thanks again gentlemen,
    Scott
    2120 Imagine 2670MK
    2016 F-150 3.5 EcoBoost

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    • #17
      scdock
      Just got home and looked at my files. It's been awhile since I had the problem you described in the OP, but I seem to remember it was the Inverter settings (in the Multiplus configuration) shown below that were causing my issue. Below is how I have them set now.

      The reason I have it set this way is because the Battle Born's battery manager will shut down the battery output at <10v (per the Battle Born manual). By having the inverter shut off at 10.5 volts, the batteries will still power the CCGX display while it is connected to the Multiplus so I can initiate recharging without disconnecting anything (a painful lesson I learned quite awhile ago).


      What are yours reading?

      Click image for larger version

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      Also, have you manually reset the SoC to 100% when you know the batteries are full? 13.6 is a full charge on our BB batteries. My charger settings:

      Click image for larger version

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      The BMV could be giving a false reading due to the Solar Charger. (The BMV's manual spells out why the tail current setting can fool the BMV into thinking it's fully charged. Search the PDF for the word "solar" and you should find it.) From page 4 of the BMV's manual:
      Remarks:
      a) In case of solar applications or Li-ion batteries several settings may have to be changed. Please refer to section 2.3 resp. section 6.


      For wiring, my battery interconnects are 2/0. The wires from the battery to shunt and inverter are 4/0 (since I have four batteries). If you're going to replace wiring (which I'd only do after confirming the configuration setup is correct) consider going with the 4/0 so you're ready for a battery upgrade to get the full potential from your Multiplus.

      For the solar question...320 watts is good for keeping the battery topped off while it sits in storage. Recharging the batteries from use while camping is asking a lot from 360 watts. (Your batteries hold ~2400 watts, since 12v * 100aH * 2 = 2400).
      Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

      2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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      • #18
        howson keep in mind I think he has the 2000VA version, so 2/0 should be plenty even if he adds batteries.

        scdock I’m not sure on the smaller one but I know the 3000 I have has two connection points. It should be relatively easy to run an additional 1/0 cable from the batteries to the inverter rather than replace them with 2/0. As you stated you should upgrade the cables that parallel the batteries together as well, and if you have a disconnect switch for the inverter you’ll have a cable there to upgrade as well.

        All that said I would check the inverter settings as that may solve it for you.

        As far as solar goes, check your charge controller settings (also Victron I assume). If your Multiplus is charging at a higher voltage than your charge controller you may have the charge profile set wrong in the controller. The number of panels won’t really affect the voltage out of the controller much, that’ll more increase the current going to the batteries while the sun is up.
        Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

        Neil Citro
        2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
        2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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        • #19
          Originally posted by ncitro View Post
          howson keep in mind I think he has the 2000VA version, so 2/0 should be plenty even if he adds batteries.
          Dang it! Missed that. I read "Multiplus" and assumed (I gotta stop doing that) he had the 3000VA version.

          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

          2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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          • #20
            Originally posted by howson View Post

            Dang it! Missed that. I read "Multiplus" and assumed (I gotta stop doing that) he had the 3000VA version.
            I did the same at first lol.

            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

            Neil Citro
            2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
            2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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            • #21
              howson, ncitro

              Gentlemen, thanks again for the valuable advise. The settings for the Multiplus, charger and BMV were provided by BB based on an inquiry I submitted after I purchased the batteries. I'll double check to ensure the Multiplus setting isn't higher than the charge controller. I will need to check the shutdown voltage as that was not part of the feedback from BB, which could be part of my issue.. I do need to look at adding additional solar capacity (currently 2 160v panels and adding 1 or 2 more) and am curious if better to wire in parallel or series, I'm not sure how they are wired currently. I've read several articles and both have advantages and disadvantages. I'd be curious what your thoughts are.
              2120 Imagine 2670MK
              2016 F-150 3.5 EcoBoost

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              • #22
                Originally posted by scdock View Post
                howson, ncitro

                Gentlemen, thanks again for the valuable advise. The settings for the Multiplus, charger and BMV were provided by BB based on an inquiry I submitted after I purchased the batteries. I'll double check to ensure the Multiplus setting isn't higher than the charge controller. I will need to check the shutdown voltage as that was not part of the feedback from BB, which could be part of my issue.. I do need to look at adding additional solar capacity (currently 2 160v panels and adding 1 or 2 more) and am curious if better to wire in parallel or series, I'm not sure how they are wired currently. I've read several articles and both have advantages and disadvantages. I'd be curious what your thoughts are.
                I’m running six, 200 watt panels. I wired them in a combination of series/parallel, three sets of two two in series. I’m currently designing a system for my father in law with three panel’s anda future possible fourth and we are going all parallel. You’ll need bigger wire, but that was the current recommendation from AM Solar for “smaller” systems.

                I know Jim had done some research a while ago that shading was not as much of an issue with the current design of panel’s and bypass diodes, but for only four panels I don’t think the wire size will be that prohibitive.

                What was the BB recommendation for the solar controller and multiplus? I’d assume they were the same charge voltages, but if you’re seeing different voltages between the two I’d find that concerning. I run Lion Energy so not totally apples to apples but the concept should be the same. The batteries shouldn’t care if the charge is coming from the solar controller, MultiPlus, or my DC to DC charger, they should want the same voltage regardless.
                Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                Neil Citro
                2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
                2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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                • #23
                  scdock Again not totally apples to apples but here’s my Smart Solar settings:

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                  Neil Citro
                  2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
                  2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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                  • #24
                    I don't have the recommendations in front of me but do seem to remember the float voltage was a little less than the absorption voltage, but I'll have to confirm. I am leaning parallel mostly due to the shading issue. We camp a lot in the Lake Tahoe area and spots with good sun most of the day are rare. Based on what I've gotten charge wise from the 2 panels an additional 2 will probably take care of our needs.
                    2120 Imagine 2670MK
                    2016 F-150 3.5 EcoBoost

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by scdock View Post
                      howson, ncitro

                      Gentlemen, thanks again for the valuable advise. The settings for the Multiplus, charger and BMV were provided by BB based on an inquiry I submitted after I purchased the batteries. I'll double check to ensure the Multiplus setting isn't higher than the charge controller. I will need to check the shutdown voltage as that was not part of the feedback from BB, which could be part of my issue.. I do need to look at adding additional solar capacity (currently 2 160v panels and adding 1 or 2 more) and am curious if better to wire in parallel or series, I'm not sure how they are wired currently. I've read several articles and both have advantages and disadvantages. I'd be curious what your thoughts are.
                      The gotcha with parallel vs series is the voltage level coming from the panels and how the Victron SmartSolar controllers work. The SmartSolar won't start charging the batteries until the PV voltage is 5v above the battery level. Low wattage panels in parallel results in a narrow window with the voltage level 5v above the battery charge, thus not much production from the panels during the day. That's why I have my 100W panels in a series-parallel configuration. If you read through my (long...sorry) thread on how and why I installed solar it should answer all of your questions.

                      https://gdrvowners.com/forum/solar/1...n-2019-315rlts

                      Another one of interest: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/solar/r...n-solar-panels
                      Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                      2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by TucsonJim View Post
                        What is the model number of your Victron Multiplus? If you have the 3000 watt model, it requires two parallel runs of 1/0 AWG wire. In other words two +12v wires and two ground wires. If this is the case, it could explain the issues you're encountering.

                        Jim
                        Hmmn. I think I ran a single 4/0 from + bus bar to the inverter (also with the fuse and master battery switch)....is that big enough for a single or are you saying you should always have 2 cables to the inverter?
                        2020 Imagine 2400BH
                        2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by bellis View Post

                          Hmmn. I think I ran a single 4/0 from + bus bar to the inverter (also with the fuse and master battery switch)....is that big enough for a single or are you saying you should always have 2 cables to the inverter?
                          Parallel runs are additive, so it's just a way of getting by with more runs of smaller wire if it's more convenient. 4/0 is equivalent to two runs of 2/0 so you're good.
                          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                          Neil Citro
                          2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
                          2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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                          • #28
                            I have also been fighting a power draw problem but am in a little different scenario. I do not use a converter and I do not, YET, have solar. I am only using 12V systems and the Interstate battery that came with the unit. I wanted to point out what I found out that is easily overlooked. If you have a Lippert OneControl system, that is constantly drawing 2-3A @12V and the refrigerator is constantly drawing 3A @12V when on propane. Now, I have a 2021 Reflection 260RD so my systems may be a little different from yours.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by TiggersRV View Post
                              I have also been fighting a power draw problem but am in a little different scenario. I do not use a converter and I do not, YET, have solar. I am only using 12V systems and the Interstate battery that came with the unit. I wanted to point out what I found out that is easily overlooked. If you have a Lippert OneControl system, that is constantly drawing 2-3A @12V and the refrigerator is constantly drawing 3A @12V when on propane. Now, I have a 2021 Reflection 260RD so my systems may be a little different from yours.
                              I would think you are using a converter, one is equipped stock from the factory to charge your batteries when connected to shore power. It's probably an inverter you do not use.

                              That's a good point about the draw of the one control. If power draw is a critical concern I'd think about a switch to kill power when not in use.

                              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                              Neil Citro
                              2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
                              2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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