Need input/help for adding led light strip to basement storage with 3-way switch.

[Bones1078]

Back with a question about upping the voltage -- howson and gbkims do either of you have an opinion on using something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Converter-5V-...542826&sr=8-28) to up the voltage to allow my LED strip lights to work?

As an alternative, does it make sense to buy 5v or 6v light strips to work with the voltage that I'm getting at that point, even though it's a 12v system?
Thanks in advance!
Still learning.
Charlie

[howson]

Back with a question about upping the voltage -- howson and gbkims do either of you have an opinion on using something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Converter-5V-...542826&sr=8-28) to up the voltage to allow my LED strip lights to work?

As an alternative, does it make sense to buy 5v or 6v light strips to work with the voltage that I'm getting at that point, even though it's a 12v system?
Thanks in advance!
Still learning.
Charlie

Charlie,
IMO there's an issue with how the lights are wired, not the source of power. You have a 12v system and 12v wires, so it's just a matter of correct wiring. In other words, I do not recommend the device linked in your post for your situation.

May I (gently) suggest asking for help from a friend that's familiar with wiring and electricity? Buy them lunch (or share a few adult beverages after the work is completed). Have the friend show you what they're doing and you'll learn a LOT!

Mike Sokol's No Shock Zone is an excellent primer on an RV's electrical system. Consider spending the few dollars it costs to get his book.

Howard

[ThePowells]

Another source I have used in the past is http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm I will add the disclaimer that I have not been to this website in a couple of years.. In my simplistic mind, you can put a switch on every door and with all of the back side of each switch and connected in parallel, then the lights will turn on at the first open door and off with the last closed door.

[Bones1078]

Charlie,
IMO there's an issue with how the lights are wired, not the source of power. You have a 12v system and 12v wires, so it's just a matter of correct wiring. In other words, I do not recommend the device linked in your post for your situation.

May I (gently) suggest asking for help from a friend that's familiar with wiring and electricity? Buy them lunch (or share a few adult beverages after the work is completed). Have the friend show you what they're doing and you'll learn a LOT!

Mike Sokol's No Shock Zone is an excellent primer on an RV's electrical system. Consider spending the few dollars it costs to get his book.

Howard

Good copy. Thanks Howard.
I'll work with someone more seasoned.
Though I can say, the wiring is correct as the lights glow, briefly, when the switch is toggled on. Leaves me thinking the lights aren't getting the minimum needed to shine brighter. IDK
I'll update this thread when we solve it.

[Bones1078]

All,
I've resolved the issue! I'll do my best to illustrate, in this post, all that was discovered and will override anything that I've posted prior. First order of business, I need to take my lumps. howson 's post #11 finally registered with me...I'm not sure where my thinking was, but I feel a little...ummm....silly now that I was missing this fact -- only the positive side runs to the switch. Hope that doesn't make anyone here cringe too badly, but lesson learned.

I decided to add the remaining 2 LED light strips in the under-the-bed storage. The short of it, I made easy work of this install by tying into the USB receptacle in the bedroom. I'm bringing this up because while looking behind the USB receptacle and AC receptacle (behind both of these is the backside of the docking system in the pass thru) I realized that the black and white wires from the USB receptacle ran to the opposite side of the pass thru, the same location that I'd be trying to power my lights on two switches!! Mind you, these black/white wires tested at 12V on the voltmeter AND the newly installed lights work. Now I have a lead...

Just as a reminder, this is on the driver's side of the coach.
I pulled the motion light and the switch from the wall to explore/see where the black/white wires from the USB receptacle connected. Sure enough, these wires feed the motion light and the V-Light. The white wires (3 returns) for these are all tied together. With my voltmeter, I stuck the black prob into the crimped closed end connector of white wires (the 3 returns)
-- connected the red prob to the orange/gray wire == 6V
-- connected the red prob to the black/white wire == 12V

Armed with these measures I'm now both confused and happy that I've found a way to power my pass thru lights. I'll circle back to the confusion. I tied 6 inch red wire with the group of black/white bunch and connected this to the positive post of the SPDT switch...VIOLA!! My lights work from both sides!

I'm attaching an actual picture of my wiring and a drawing to explain. Open to criticism/feedback/comments. Thanks again to all that chimed in to help!
NOTE: the V-Light switch is left side of the two gang switch plate, as seen in the picture of my wiring (not the diagram).

Any info on why I measure 6V at the orange wire?

[Jlawles2]

Bones1078 For the 6v measurement, verify that the meter was in the right range (DC not AC) and on some of the newer meters with auto detect, you have to wait a bit for it to figure out what range it's supposed to be in.


Otherwise, it could be a back feed from the LED.

[Bones1078]

Bones1078 For the 6v measurement, verify that the meter was in the right range (DC not AC) and on some of the newer meters with auto detect, you have to wait a bit for it to figure out what range it's supposed to be in.


Otherwise, it could be a back feed from the LED.

To add -- the meter was in DC auto and I'd connected the prob directly to the orange wire... Left that way for 30 seconds or so, the numbers had stopped bouncing around.

Thanks for the feedback!