What amperage GFI breaker is in the 397TH bathroom?

[DMacLeod]

Does anyone know if the GFI in a 2021 397TH is a 15 amp or a 20 amp breaker?

thanks

[Jkwilson]

I’m not sure what you are asking. The breaker is in the panel. Though outlets, including GFCI outlets have ratings, they don’t have any over current function and don’t trip based on current.

[ncitro]

Does anyone know if the GFI in a 2021 397TH is a 15 amp or a 20 amp breaker?

thanks

I would imagine the GFCI outlet is 15 amp, and the breaker in the panel that feeds it is 15 amp as well. As John says the GFCI has nothing to do with over current protection.

[DMacLeod]

I want to replace my GFI and they are rated as 15 amp GFI or 20 amp GFI on Amazon, guess I'm asking if the GFI that comes with the RV is rated at 15 amps or 20 amps.

[gbkims]

I want to replace my GFI and they are rated as 15 amp GFI or 20 amp GFI on Amazon, guess I'm asking if the GFI that comes with the RV is rated at 15 amps or 20 amps.

GD Parts Lookup shows both 15A, 20A on a 2021 397TH, so you may need to verify what you have.

[jamesdn]

It's easy to determine what GFI rating that you have. Looking at the outlet if the neutral (longer) slot is just a straight slot then the GFI is 15 amp. If the neutral slot has another shorter slot perpendicular to it then it's a 20 amp GFI. Hopefully that's clear.

[OffToHavasu]

I would imagine the GFCI outlet is 15 amp, and the breaker in the panel that feeds it is 15 amp as well. As John says the GFCI has nothing to do with over current protection.

Not necessarily true. When there are multiple outlets on a circuit, you can have a 20 amp breaker with 15 amp outlets, as long as the wire is appropriately sized.

[Guest]

It's easy to determine what GFI rating that you have. Looking at the outlet if the neutral (longer) slot is just a straight slot then the GFI is 15 amp. If the neutral slot has another shorter slot perpendicular to it then it's a 20 amp GFI. Hopefully that's clear.

This is the perfect description. I have replaced my 15 amp GFCI twice now where it will malfunction and will not reset. The next time I replace it I will install a 20 amp GFCI since this will help with initial start up currents which I suspect is what is destroying the units. Since the circuit is protected with a 15 amp breaker, I believe this will be acceptable. For the electrical engineers and techs, let me know if this is not acceptable.

Jim

[howson]

This is the perfect description. I have replaced my 15 amp GFCI twice now where it will malfunction and will not reset. The next time I replace it I will install a 20 amp GFCI since this will help with initial start up currents which I suspect is what is destroying the units. Since the circuit is protected with a 15 amp breaker, I believe this will be acceptable. For the electrical engineers and techs, let me know if this is not acceptable.

Jim

According to https://www.homelectrical.com/20-amp...outlets.6.html the answer is "no".

Per the website: According to National Electrical Code, only a 15-amp or 20-amp electrical receptacle can be installed to a 20-amp circuit. A 15-amp receptacle may also be installed on a 15-amp circuit. However, a 20-amp GFCI outlet may not be installed to a 15-amp circuit.

[StephenO]

This is the perfect description. I have replaced my 15 amp GFCI twice now where it will malfunction and will not reset. The next time I replace it I will install a 20 amp GFCI since this will help with initial start up currents which I suspect is what is destroying the units. Since the circuit is protected with a 15 amp breaker, I believe this will be acceptable. For the electrical engineers and techs, let me know if this is not acceptable.

Jim

Installing a 20amp GFI in place of a will not provide any additional current support. 20amp circuits will have an appropriately sized breaker at the panel (20amp breaker obviously), a heaver gauge wiring as compared to a 15amp circuit (I believe 12g but don't quote me), and 20amp receptacles. The 15amp GFI installed should be able to handle at least that amount of current, otherwise the outlet now becomes the breaker, which would be bad.

You do bring up an interesting question though, does a high inrush current constantly placed on a GFI cause the internal mechanism to fail? My guess is no since I thought the GFI mechanics were focused around voltage imbalance as opposed to current flow. This is a timely topic as we just had a GFI outlet in our house fail, where I cannot reset it. I know for sure current didn't cause this failure as the outlet is in our bathroom and doesn't have any large appliances plugged into it.

[TedS]

Maybe there is a downstream current leak causing the receptacle to trip. The current ratings advise how much current should be drawn through the receptacle by a load.

[Guest]

You do bring up an interesting question though, does a high inrush current constantly placed on a GFI cause the internal mechanism to fail? My guess is no since I thought the GFI mechanics were focused around voltage imbalance as opposed to current flow. This is a timely topic as we just had a GFI outlet in our house fail, where I cannot reset it. I know for sure current didn't cause this failure as the outlet is in our bathroom and doesn't have any large appliances plugged into it.

StephenO, this is exactly what I was thinking. I also want the circuit to be protected as well. Since the main breaker is 15amp, I didn't think a more robust 20 amp GFCI would make a difference other than to prevent failure due to in rush current. To your point, the GFCI focuses on voltage imbalance and the main breaker focuses on load.

It could be the cheap GFCI has that been used. I purchased a different 15amp GFCI so I will see how it does over time.

Jim

[TedS]

For current to rush in, there must be equal current rush out. The gfci senses current in and out. As long as they are equal the gfci will not trip. Over-voltage does not trip the gfci. The gfci must be faulty or there is a circuit fault. The current rating of the receptacle denotes its current carrying capacity. Exceeding the current capacity could result in overheated terminals.

Circuit breakers are overcurrent safety devices.

[J & J Bumblebee]

Just take the cover off and look at the upper right corner of the receptacle. Imprinted in the plastic is the amp rating. You may need a flashlight to see it.

[tgodrich]

A little AC voltage tutorial...

It is imperative that you make sure the power is off when checking or replacing receptacles, or wiring circuits. AC voltage can be fatal, and can cause fires.

With wire gauge (wire thickness, not including insulation), the lower the number, the thicker the wire (10 gauge wire is thicker than 12 gauge wire is thicker than 14 gauge wire, etc.). The larger the gauge (smaller the number), the more current the wire is capable of carrying. Household receptacles are typically connected using 12-gauge wire. The lighting fixtures will often be connected using 14 gauge wire. There are codes that regulate all of these features for AC circuits in houses. I think the RV industry also conforms to these electrical codes.

The shorter of the two vertical slots is the hot (black or sometimes red)) and the longer slot is the neutral (white). Hot refers to the wire with voltage on it. When measuring the voltage with an AC voltmeter, voltage is measured on the "hot" black or red wires when comparing to ground (usually Green). Neutral (white) will not have voltage on it comparing to ground. However, if you measure between hot and neutral with the meter (black to white) you will measure voltage. Looking at the receptacle after you take the cover off will work too (just use caution unless the circuit is shut off at the breaker). Looking at the receptacle will only tell you the rating of that receptacle, not the breaker size. 20-amp receptacles have a horizontal slot branching off one of the vertical slots (usually the longer neutral slot) as shown in the 20 amp receptacle photo of post #14. Electrical plugs designated as 20 amp will not fit into 15 amp outlets, but 15 amp plugs can plug into either 15 amp or 20 amp receptacles. 20 amp circuits are supposed to have 12 gauge wire (maybe 10 or 8 for long runs - another topic). In a house, 15 amp receptacles usually have 12 gauge wire. Lighting only circuits might have 14 gauge wire.

You can put 15 amp receptacles (one or more) on a 20 amp breaker, but not the other way around. With a 15 amp breaker, you would not want to be able to plug in a 20 amp piece of equipment. Most household electrical receptacles have a 15-amp rating, but they connect to a 20-amp circuit (breaker). Standard 15-amp receptacles are suitable for typical household appliances, lamps and other accessories. A 20-amp receptacle is for heavy-duty appliances and power tools, such as air compressors. Residential garages occasionally have 20-amp receptacles to accommodate larger power tools.

I have found it useful to have a AC tester handy in the trailer and at home. They are about $10 at most hardware stores. If getting one, get one with a GFCI test button on it too. This will allow you to test the GFCI function of a GFCI circuit. These testers have multiple lights that illuminate to show if the circuit is active and if wired correctly. It is handy when you want to make sure a circuit is off (although I also check with a DVM).

Hope this helps.