12V pigtail connections 2021 Solitude 3540GKR

[FreddieD]

I have an issue with my truck not charging the 5th wheel batteries and need to validate the 5th wheel connections, I know GD does not have schematics. I specifically need to know where pin 4 12v black,
AuX orange and pin #1 white tie into the 5th wheel..

[Country Campers]

I have an issue with my truck not charging the 5th wheel batteries and need to validate the 5th wheel connections, I know GD does not have schematics. I specifically need to know where pin 4 12v black,
AuX orange and pin #1 white tie into the 5th wheel..

Up underneath the fifth wheel overhang where the pin box attaches to the RV in between the rails you will find the silver box where the pig tail terminates. Inside that you will find all the connections. You will have to trace the wire back to the coach to determine the proper color. I did find on our unit that the truck positive does not go directly to the battery, it first goes to the power distribution panel inside the RV. These all may be wired differently.

Brian

[FreddieD]

Thank Brian,
I will start there, When I put a meter on the 7 pin connector, red to #4 and black to #1 it shows inverter polarity

[ncitro]

Thank Brian,
I will start there, When I put a meter on the 7 pin connector, red to #4 and black to #1 it shows inverter polarity

While the wiring colors in the trailer can be random, the pin out on the pigtail should be standard (otherwise there would be no guarantee it would work with all tow vehicles). Your ground is probably correct, or the lights would not work. Should be easy to check, read resistance between the ground pin #1 and the frame of the trailer and you should see a short. Assuming thats correct move on to the 12V side. On my trailer (Reflection 5th wheel) the charge feed from the pigtail (#4 as you state) went directly to the unfused side of the resettable circuit breakers after passing through the metal breakout box Brian mentioned above. In fact you should read 12v between it and ground even with nothing connected, as its not a part of any of the factory fusing or disconnect switch. If you do not have 12v there, then I would look at the connection in the breakout box. I have replaced mine with one like this from Amazon, it makes troubleshooting much easier and cleans up the mess of wire nuts present from the factory.

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Way...144780&sr=8-11

[FreddieD]

Thanks Neil,

using GD's pinout, I think I see the issue, the pin out shows the #1 ground being next to the plug guide and the 12vdc being opposite, the 12vdc should be closer to the plug guide like the rest of the world.
I have attached something to look at Connector.pdf

[TedS]

[ncitro]

Thanks Neil,

using GD's pinout, I think I see the issue, the pin out shows the #1 ground being next to the plug guide and the 12vdc being opposite, the 12vdc should be closer to the plug guide like the rest of the world.
I have attached something to look at [ATTACH]n63651[/ATTACH]

Teds picture is what I have always used. Remember those pictures are taken as if you were looking at the plug or receptacle. Again it should be easy to verify if you are using a meter. The 12v pin should be hot right now. To rule out the ground pin, check to the frame.

[Yoda]

I have an issue with my truck not charging the 5th wheel batteries and need to validate the 5th wheel connections, I know GD does not have schematics. I specifically need to know where pin 4 12v black,
AuX orange and pin #1 white tie into the 5th wheel..

Have you verified that your truck is actually sending a charging current?

[tgodrich]

If your trailer was wired wrong, you may have blown the fuse supplying 12 volts from the truck to the connector. First place I would check is the connector on the truck for 12 volts. Then you should verify that the trailer plug 12 volt (pin 4) is not grounded to the trailer chassis. I would work from the truck end back into the trailer for troubleshooting. Also make sure your 12 volts from the truck is not switched. In other words, is 12 volts at the connector all the time (unswitched), or only when the truck is running (switched). Also, wire nuts can come loose with vibration. I use crimp connection or solder. Hope this helps.

[Jlawles2]

FreddieD Have you verified that the leads on the meter are connected and reading correctly but putting the red on the + of the tow vehicle battery and the black on the -? This might seem odd, but stranger things have happened, especially if it's a new meter and the leads are hard wired.

[FreddieD]

Update, The GD's DWG win incorrect but the connector is wired properly, I am old and was confusing myself. I put an amp meter on the +12 and it shows 4 amps @ idle. This makes no sense, 2 interstate batteries HD27MDC-1 RC 160 @ 10 amps thats 8 hrs run time, factor in the 4 amp charge and it should be longer. I have ordered a smart shut so I can see the exact details...

[ncitro]

Update, The GD's DWG win incorrect but the connector is wired properly, I am old and was confusing myself. I put an amp meter on the +12 and it shows 4 amps @ idle. This makes no sense, 2 interstate batteries HD27MDC-1 RC 160 @ 10 amps thats 8 hrs run time, factor in the 4 amp charge and it should be longer. I have ordered a smart shut so I can see the exact details...

That seems about right. With the factory charging wire in my truck even with the batteries depleted and the truck at highway speed the most I saw was seven amps. Even with twin heavy duty alternators. You just do not get much charge out of the truck.