Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Electrical Issues/‘21 2910BH

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Electrical Issues/‘21 2910BH


  • #2
    Is your question about the missing fuses, the lights on the panel or the lack of a light on F4 and F5 even with the fuses pulled?
    John & Kathy
    2014 Reflection 303RLS
    2014 F250 SC SB 6.2

    Comment


    • #3
      I screwed up posting. I am not getting any power for the bathroom lights/fan, bedroom lights, and awning lights, only one speaker light comes on. They all either work or not, intermittently. I pulled all the fuses and 4/5/9 do not fault when I pull them. I assume I have a bad 12v ground somewhere or something, but nothing loose in the panel. They will work or not work together. 4 is the bathroom, 5 is the refer/furnace and 9 is the awning lights. Sorry, first post, just joined. Just wondering if anyone has an idea if it is a short/loose connection/something else? Thanks, Charlie
      Last edited by Obrracing; 08-22-2021, 12:56 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        I’d start by measuring voltage from each fuse “socket” to ground. One of each slot should be 12V even without the fuse in. I suspect you’ll find it’s not 12V on the problem fuses and you’ll have to dig a little deeper in the box to find out why not. If you don’t have a meter, you are going to want one as an RV owner.
        John & Kathy
        2014 Reflection 303RLS
        2014 F250 SC SB 6.2

        Comment


        • #5
          Obrracing Welcome to the group. First thing would be to jump the non working LED to a working LED to see if the light comes on. Why? Those LED are known to not indicate correctly. Secondly, an intermittent ground would definitely cause your issue. I would not be surprised if all of the intermittent or non working items are on the same ground. Maybe someone here can point you in the right direction of looking for the ground.
          Joseph
          Tow
          Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
          Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
          South of Houston Texas

          Comment


          • #6
            Obrracing
            As shown in the diagram from the Power Distribution Center, or PDC, in my 315RLTS (which I assume is similar to the PDC in your trailer) the top row should be a constant +12vDC and the bottom row also +12vDC if the fuse is installed and good. . The 12vDC returns all tie together on a bus bar.

            I suggest the first thing to do is verify the board in the PDC is good.

            BEFORE PROCEEDING: If you're not familiar with measuring live voltages with a multimeter...might be time to bail and call for a qualified technician or knowledgeable friend. (o offense--you're new--so not sure if you have the tools, technical, or physical ability to do these checks. Bottom line: be careful working with electricity!

            All of the top row (red arrow) should have +12vDC as long as there is a good battery in the trailer, the battery disconnect is on (key can't be removed) or shore power is applied and the converter is operational. That statement assumes you know those components...so ask if you're unsure of what was just written.

            With the fuses still out, measure for 12vDC across the top row connection for fuse 4 (red lead from multimeter) to the ground bus bar (black lead on multimeter to spot indicated by yellow arrow). Then do the same for fuse 5 and 9. All three should measure around 12vDC.

            Now install the three fuses back into their respective positions. Measure for voltage again using the junction below the fuse (where the wire is secured). Again, each measurement should measure about 12vDC. If one or none of them measure 12vDC, double-check the fuses are good by pulling them (and checking using the ohm setting on the multimeter) or just swap with a known good fuse on the board.

            Report back your findings and we can continue on to the next step if everything checks good.

            If the checks find an issue, it should be easy to move the fuse position--more on that once we know the results of the tests above.

            Again--if there is any doubt about how to actually do this please consult a professional.

            Howard

            Click image for larger version

Name:	Diagram of fuse panel.JPG
Views:	490
Size:	117.1 KB
ID:	64039

            Howard
            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

            2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

            Comment


            • #7
              Jkwilson

              Jlawles2

              Sorry, guys...I was typing (and took dogs for a walk) while putting together a response. Your responses are spot on!
              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

              2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Obrracing View Post
                I am not getting any power for the bathroom lights/fan, bedroom lights, and awning lights, only one speaker light comes on. They all either work or not, intermittently....Just wondering if anyone has an idea if it is a short/loose connection/something else? Thanks, Charlie
                Maybe a wire has worked itself off a switch terminal or out of a crimp cap connector.
                Some of the wires from the fuse panel run in a daisy chain thru switches in the panel that has the slide, awning, water heater, etc
                Sometimes a large wire nut ties a lot of ground wires together behind that switch panel.

                The red blown fuse light requires a load on that circuit, No current being drawn by lights, etc, then the blown fuse LED shouldn't light up when the fuse is pulled.
                Last edited by gbkims; 08-30-2021, 10:50 AM.
                Gene and Kim
                2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
                2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks, all. I do not own a multi-meter, have been debating which one to buy and evidently took too long to choose. I just ordered a Fluke 107. I did check for any loose connections and could not find any. Here are additional pics of my panel. I thought I verified the battery connect, I will do that again, thought I would also check the actual battery ground cable too. I know where the converter breaker is in the panel, but that is about it. There is a box behind this panel, all the wires, and my heater ducting, I think it is a 12v junction box or something? Thanks for the quick replies/help. V/r Charlie
                  Last edited by Obrracing; 08-22-2021, 11:44 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Will add, battery is at 13.7, steady, all connections exterior seem solid/tight from the battery into the trailer, nothing loose to the little silver box on the frame. Fluke multi meter should be here Wednesday, but my HOA requires I put the trailer back in storage before then, so I may have to wait a bit to use it for the checks you mentioned, Howard. Appreciate the help…
                    Last edited by Obrracing; 08-22-2021, 11:56 AM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Obrracing For multimeter's, Fluke is a good well known brand. B/C I use my meters for various things, I chose a little more complicated of one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 mainly because I needed a way to measure DC amperage easily.
                      Joseph
                      Tow
                      Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
                      Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
                      South of Houston Texas

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Obrracing View Post
                        Thanks, all. I do not own a multi-meter, have been debating which one to buy and evidently took too long to choose. I just ordered a Fluke 107. I did check for any loose connections and could not find any. Here are additional pics of my panel. I thought I verified the battery connect, I will do that again, thought I would also check the actual battery ground cable too. I know where the converter breaker is in the panel, but that is about it. There is a box behind this panel, all the wires, and my heater ducting, I think it is a 12v junction box or something? Thanks for the quick replies/help. V/r Charlie
                        Charlie,
                        In that second picture it looks like GD installed more than one 12vDC return wire in a single bus bar connection. Not ideal IMHO. I believe each white 12vDC return should have it's own connection to the bus bar.

                        Since you don't have the meter to do the voltage checks, consider (with ALL power off--including shore and battery disconnected) separating those white 12vDC return wires so there is one wire per bus bar connection. Inspect each wire closely for broken wires.

                        Just the process of removing and reseating those return lines may fix the issue. Maybe not, too, but it's something I'd try.

                        Remember--only do this with no power applied. Take pictures before and during each step so you can put it back the way you found it. Only mess with the 12vDC (white) return lines to the bus bar, don't move or mess with the 120vAC ground wires or neutral wires that look similar but are in the upper bus bar. (Sorry about the emphasis...just trying my communicate this suggestion as clearly as possible.)

                        Howard

                        P.S. There's also a torque value for those screws on the bus bar. There's a full discussion on this topic here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...al-maintenance
                        Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                        2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Howard, thanks for the additional info. Silly question, do you mind clarifying the lower and upper busbar? Do you mean the lower is the one more in front and the upper is the one more in the back? It appears they’re doubled up in both locations. V/r Charlie
                          Last edited by Obrracing; 08-22-2021, 02:11 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Think I got it, one side is the 12v side, then where the other copper and white wires are is the 120 side (the other pic). V/r Charlie

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Obrracing

                              Yep--think you got it. The issue is related to the 12vDC area. (Diagram may not reflect exactly what's in your trailer but it will be close.)

                              Click image for larger version

Name:	DC side.JPG
Views:	351
Size:	102.0 KB
ID:	64072
                              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                              2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X