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Tapping 12V from the truck to charge Battle Borns

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  • #91
    howson Oh I am sure that was the issue as I did nothing at all lol. I had it tied to the metal of the body which I thought would act as enough of a heat sink, but I was clearly wrong. That said when I needed to replace it the solenoid was cheaper and at 200 amps I figured it would be way less chance of failure.
    Neil Citro
    2018 Reflection 28bh
    2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

    Comment


    • #92
      Originally posted by ncitro View Post
      howson Oh I am sure that was the issue as I did nothing at all lol. I had it tied to the metal of the body which I thought would act as enough of a heat sink, but I was clearly wrong. That said when I needed to replace it the solenoid was cheaper and at 200 amps I figured it would be way less chance of failure.
      As I now read back through this thread I see you already noted the lack of the heat sink back in Aug (in post 87). I apologize--didn't mean to rehash old history.
      Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

      Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

      Comment


      • #93
        Originally posted by howson View Post

        As I now read back through this thread I see you already noted the lack of the heat sink back in Aug (in post 87). I apologize--didn't mean to rehash old history.
        No problem I lost track of what I post and what I don't anyway.
        Neil Citro
        2018 Reflection 28bh
        2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

        Comment


        • #94
          Originally posted by ncitro View Post

          I tried that and it did not work for me. I did also have the Renogy fail shortly after I tried that method. I got it exchanged with no issue, but I never retried that configuration so I am not sure if that was the problem with tying it to the charging wire. I pretty much always tow with the headlights on so it was not worth troubleshooting further at that point.

          I would caution you, I know Howard has had no issues with his setup, but the 60 amp solid state relay I used to go from the truck batteries to the upfitter feed failed on me. To finish that trip I just tied it to the battery, knowing if my lights were on it would be running the charger. Once I got home I picked up a 200 amp solenoid and it has been good ever since. I know it is not as efficient, but that waste of power is on the truck side, and the alternator has power to spare so I figured it would be fine.

          https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
          I saw the issue you had with the solid state relay and chose to go with an old fashioned 200 amp relay. As you mention there is plenty of power available with the truck’s dual alternator setup. I used this one. I guess I will find out if it works

          https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
          2018 Reflection 303rls
          2017 Ford F350 SRW

          Comment


          • #95
            Originally posted by wygieman View Post

            I saw the issue you had with the solid state relay and chose to go with an old fashioned 200 amp relay. As you mention there is plenty of power available with the truck’s dual alternator setup. I used this one. I guess I will find out if it works

            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
            Also 1/10th the cost of the SSR! Obviously I should have done more research into that particular component.

            Thinking about your earlier question regarding the D+ line (and if you don't mind a bit of speculation), the Renogy is designed to have +12v from the battery "sit" on the input at all times. I don't think the engineers envisioned having the D+ and 12+ at the input both set active simultaneously or from the same source. Just an opinion...but I wouldn't do it.

            I haven't read back through this whole thread, but the reason I used a relay on the main power line (triggered on and off by the Upfitter switch) was to remove 12+ from the connector at the back of the truck. This was important to me to ensure that when the trailer is disconnected from the truck there wasn't "live" 12v battery power sitting on the connector.

            Since it's been awhile and I've used this setup now multiple times in real-world conditions, I can report I've had no issues whatsoever with the setup. I am very pleased with how the Renogy works with my setup and that I've got the option to charge from the truck if solar output drops (rain, cloudy day, etc) while traveling.
            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

            Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

            Comment


            • #96
              Originally posted by howson View Post

              Also 1/10th the cost of the SSR! Obviously I should have done more research into that particular component.
              And here I was thinking you were looking to save power with the solid state over the solenoid lol.

              I’m quite happy with mine as well, we boondock or dry camp quite often and it’s agitate good to show up at 100%.

              Neil Citro
              2018 Reflection 28bh
              2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

              Comment


              • #97
                Originally posted by howson View Post

                Also 1/10th the cost of the SSR! Obviously I should have done more research into that particular component.

                Thinking about your earlier question regarding the D+ line (and if you don't mind a bit of speculation), the Renogy is designed to have +12v from the battery "sit" on the input at all times. I don't think the engineers envisioned having the D+ and 12+ at the input both set active simultaneously or from the same source. Just an opinion...but I wouldn't do it.

                I haven't read back through this whole thread, but the reason I used a relay on the main power line (triggered on and off by the Upfitter switch) was to remove 12+ from the connector at the back of the truck. This was important to me to ensure that when the trailer is disconnected from the truck there wasn't "live" 12v battery power sitting on the connector.

                Since it's been awhile and I've used this setup now multiple times in real-world conditions, I can report I've had no issues whatsoever with the setup. I am very pleased with how the Renogy works with my setup and that I've got the option to charge from the truck if solar output drops (rain, cloudy day, etc) while traveling.
                I think that the purpose of the D+ terminal is to let you hook to the primary battery directly but not take current from the battery unless the alternator is on to replenish it. I used the upfitter switch for the same reason you did but I think that it activates the charger exactly like is intended without a separate D+ signal source. No biggee, just saves having to run another wire out to the pin.
                2018 Reflection 303rls
                2017 Ford F350 SRW

                Comment


                • #98
                  Originally posted by wygieman View Post
                  I think that the purpose of the D+ terminal is to let you hook to the primary battery directly but not take current from the battery unless the alternator is on to replenish it.
                  Exactly.

                  The Renogy manual is poorly written and confusing with it's terminology, but as you've written the purpose of the D+ is to keep the Renogy from charging the "house" battery from the "vehicle" battery unless the vehicle (and presumably the alternator) is running.

                  I don't think Renogy envisioned their device being used to charge travel trailer batteries. I believe the component is primarily targeted at "skoolies" (vans) and motorhomes that have vehicle batteries permanently connected to the Renogy's input. In that situation, hooking the D+ directly to the vehicle battery would defeat the purpose of the D+ signal cable.

                  Not your situation--I understand how you're using the Upfitter switch.

                  I hope you'll post a follow-up with the results and real-world experience with the setup.

                  From the manual:

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	Renogy.JPG
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ID:	33031

                  Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                  Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                  Comment


                  • #99
                    At the request of a friend of mine I've put together a list of items I used in this modification (see attached spreadsheet or PDF, whichever is your preference). Included is Neil's alternative for the relay (much less expensive). The list is long but not necessarily comprehensive or all-inclusive--this is not a "plug and play" mod. Each vehicle and/or owner will have unique requirements or different thoughts on how to implement. The purpose of this list is to show what I used, not to definitively state what you should use. In other words, this is a "Reference Only" to get the reader started as they make their own decision on what to buy and how to implement on their setup.

                    Howard

                    Attached Files
                    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                    Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                    Comment


                    • Howard howson ,

                      since you have mentioned before how much you like Victron Energy products is there a reason you chose the Renology DC-DC charger over the Victron DC-DC charger?

                      Just a curiosity question more than anything, thanks

                      Brian
                      Brian
                      2017 Silverado 2500 HD diesel
                      2018 Reflection 230RL

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Retgw2 View Post
                        Howard howson ,

                        since you have mentioned before how much you like Victron Energy products is there a reason you chose the Renology DC-DC charger over the Victron DC-DC charger?

                        Just a curiosity question more than anything, thanks

                        Brian
                        At the time we did them (we did them right around the same time) I don't think Victron had a product. I know when I looked there was the Renogy and one other product I saw that did DC to DC charging but did not have a lithium specific profile.

                        Neil Citro
                        2018 Reflection 28bh
                        2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Retgw2 View Post
                          Howard howson ,

                          since you have mentioned before how much you like Victron Energy products is there a reason you chose the Renology DC-DC charger over the Victron DC-DC charger?

                          Just a curiosity question more than anything, thanks

                          Brian
                          Primary reason for me is the Victron wasn't "smart" (didn't connect to the VE.Bus therefore it didn't communicate with the other Victron products). The Renogy also got a great review (with demo) from Will Prowse. Add in the $$ savings and it was an easy decision (for me).
                          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                          Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by howson View Post

                            Primary reason for me is the Victron wasn't "smart" (didn't connect to the VE.Bus therefore it didn't communicate with the other Victron products). The Renogy also got a great review (with demo) from Will Prowse. Add in the $$ savings and it was an easy decision (for me).
                            howson , ncitro nitro

                            Thanks for the information. I did notice that the victron unit won't communicate with the others but it looks like they have now made it "smart" and will at least link to their app. Just haven't found a lot of reviews on it yet.

                            Brian
                            Brian
                            2017 Silverado 2500 HD diesel
                            2018 Reflection 230RL

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by howson View Post


                              Not your situation--I understand how you're using the Upfitter switch.

                              I hope you'll post a follow-up with the results and real-world experience with the setup.


                              I recently returned from 6 weeks camping and using the DC-DC charging system and like it very much. Just a couple of notes on how I did it a little differently for a 5er though substantively I followed Howards model. I connected to the driver side battery and ran the wires down the driver’s side of the truck to match the normal 5er power connections. I also used an upfitter switch to control the power to the connector using a 200 amp solenoid through a 60 amp Blue Sea breaker in the engine compartment. I covered the two 4 AWG wires with split loom separately and put heat shrink over the pair where they are exposed in the bed of the truck. I routed the cables into the truck bed through the drain between the bed and the tailgate to avoid putting any holes in the bed, at least while I try it out. I did not use a separate D+ connection as mentioned above and directly hooked the D+ signal to the input as it is already switched. Another slight difference is that the output of the Renogy is connected to the DC circuits after the battery shutoff switch so that it can power the RV even with the batteries shut off should that be necessary. Even with 4 AWG wires, there was almost a 10% voltage drop over the run. With the voltage of 14.46 volts at the battery, it was 13.22 volts at the Renogy. The Renogy input current was 52 amps while outputting 40 amps. I was surprised to use almost all of the 50 foot rolls of wire I had ordered. A couple of pictures attached. I noticed on the other forum they had implementations using a frame ground to reduce the mount of wire run. I preferred using a full run of both wires to avoid an electrical connection under the truck.

                              2018 Reflection 303rls
                              2017 Ford F350 SRW

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by wygieman View Post

                                I saw the issue you had with the solid state relay and chose to go with an old fashioned 200 amp relay. As you mention there is plenty of power available with the truck’s dual alternator setup. I used this one. I guess I will find out if it works

                                https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
                                Curious question. As it is a starter relay is it rated for continuous operation?
                                2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

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