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  • WA's 303RLS Electrical Mods

    I figured I should make a post regarding the installation of our Multiplus II 12|3000|120x2, Lynx Distributor, Cerbo GX / Touch 50, Renogy 40a DC-DC charger, Furrion 50a MPPT, and Lion UT1300 battery bank. I thought about just going into Brian’s thread and saying “ditto, we did this too” but there are some slight differences I guess, so might as well make my own post and tell our story. Plus I want to share pictures and show off, because that's the real reason we do these mods, right?!


    Prior to purchasing our Reflection 303RLS in April, we knew that changing out and updating a bunch of electrical components would be part of the process for us. I’ve always enjoyed tinkering, electronic gadgets are just fun, and I’m fortunate enough to be good friends with ncitro; these add up to the fact that I’ve had the front bay of our rig figured out long before I even had a front bay! Lol

    In fact, we actually purchased 2x Lion Energy UT1300 batteries before we purchased the camper. I asked the saleswoman at the RV dealership if I could get a discount for not needing the battery they ship them with. When she said no, I asked her to keep it without any discount just to save me from having to dispose of it… unfortunately that wasn’t a thing either and the battery they shipped me home with is just sitting in my garage now.

    It was only a couple days after bringing our rig home that we wired up a Progressive Industries HW50C EMS, added the two Lion batteries in the front bay (along with a borrowed charger since the one from the factory was not Lithium optimized). We also had the Furrion 50A charge controller and single 165w panel which came from the factory. Not a bad start for being home 72 hours!

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    This got us through our shakedown trip and a couple small outings until I had the time to really start changing things. Here is the schematic that I came up with and used as my blueprint for the build.

    ***EDIT: THIS SCHEMATIC IS AN EARLIER DESIGN AS HAS BEEN UPDATED IN POST #9 OF THIS THREAD, BELOW. ***
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    Now that I found some time and created a design, it was time to dive in! I took some pictures of the diagrams they had posted in the front bay, used a label maker to mark up the wires, and then dismantled it all. I installed a plywood backboard (painted black) to mount everything cleanly, and also put in a shelf measured for six LiFePO4 batteries that I knew we would expand to before long. I decided I wanted to put the battery bank on a shelf for two reasons. First is that it would allow some extra storage underneath while still giving good access to the tops of the batteries without putting a “cap” over the tops, and also that it was a better utilization of space as I could double them up depth-wise and run 2 rows of 3; because of the angle of the front bay, there was not enough room to double them up on the floor but there was if I raised them up 6+ inches. I then started to mount, connect, and route everything.

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    ​Continued in post #2...
    Last edited by WondersAwait; 03-20-2023, 09:31 AM.
    David and Deana
    2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4, CC, SRW, 6.6L L8T Gas, MYD 6-Speed
    2022 Reflection 303RLS w/ Gen-Y Executive Gooseneck Hitch

  • #2
    Continued from post #1...

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    Phew. That was a lot of work but an incredible amount of fun. We only had the rig out a few more long weekends before we ended up ordering 4 more Lion Energy batteries, thanks to Costco actually listing them for online sale. Once those came I ran the extra wires to expand the battery bank.

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    I mounted the Touch 50 control panel in the cabinet where my main lights/slight control panel is. Also, this is where I mounted one of my two SeeLevel displays, but I'll have more on that in another thread focusing on those sensors since I know there have been questions.

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    That's, uh... that's a lot for the first 3 months owning this rig. The next parts of the electrical will be to expand the actual solar portion of this system which many would label as "solar". I have plans of adding 2 more panels before this autumn and running all 3 panels off the Furrion controller. Down the line I imagine I will end up getting additional panels past that, at which point I will upgrade the controller and match it with a Victron so that I can interface it with the rest of the system. For now though, this will have to do.

    A massive thanks to Neil for being my consultant on this project and helping to steer me in the right direction (albeit while emptying my wallet). It's dangerous, but extremely fun, being his friend I'll have you all know. Also thanks to these boards as I have read through a ridiculous amount of everyone's posts, guides, and discussions on various projects that are directly or indirectly relevant to us.

    I'll be sure to post more as I continue to make adjustments, as I know far too well that this will be a perpetual project. ​
    David
    Last edited by WondersAwait; 07-20-2022, 05:00 PM.
    David and Deana
    2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4, CC, SRW, 6.6L L8T Gas, MYD 6-Speed
    2022 Reflection 303RLS w/ Gen-Y Executive Gooseneck Hitch

    Comment


    • #3
      Very nice. Welcome to the "rabbit hole" of this wonderful world of owning an RV. If you have read back thru my posts you will know that I started with 2 batteries, last fall, and now I am at the same point as you. All I wanted was to have a little system but this guy CITRO has a tendency to make remarks to other people and the next thing,,,,, well you know.

      It is satisfying to get a system together like this and have it all work and also have no worries about having power when you want or need it.

      One note, add another RJ45 cable to the Multiplus and coil it up so you can access it if or when you need to update or change any settings in the Multiplus. I used the one that connects to the Cerbo and then needed to use it again so I just added one as the Cerbo misses things when they are unplugged.

      A great learning experience when doing an install like this yourself, also makes troubleshooting easier as well as you know all about the system.

      Brian
      Brian & Michelle
      2018 Reflection 29RS
      2022 Chevy 3500HD

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      • #4
        David --- Can you tell me what exactly you did to address the D+ ignition signal that the Renogy is looking for to activate charging from your Anderson connect to your truck 12 volt system? Many thanks Mark
        Mark & Julie
        2021 GD 303RLS; GooseBox Hitch; towed by Ram 3500 SRW

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        • #5
          TheMcLellans I wired the D+ line directly to the main 12v power line from truck 7 way connector. Some decide to wire this to the lights 12v connection so that the charger is toggled on if the truck headlights are on; the problem with this for me is with my Sierra I prefer to run the headlights on automatic mode. I toggle the charger on/off via an upfitter switch in thr truck cab that is wired to an isolator, allowing or cutting the connection between the RV batteries and alternator via upfitter. It works exactly as designed and I'm very happy with the operation so far.
          David and Deana
          2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4, CC, SRW, 6.6L L8T Gas, MYD 6-Speed
          2022 Reflection 303RLS w/ Gen-Y Executive Gooseneck Hitch

          Comment


          • #6
            WondersAwait -- superb job on the install. Much cleaner than mine!

            If I could make a small suggestion? Rubber boots over the positive battery terminals (like what they have on car batteries) and over the positive coming out to the Distributor. There's a LOT of potential in those batteries--an accidental short could make for a bad day...preventable by a few dollars of red rubber. (The Distributor, if the input shorted, would blow the main fuse but I wouldn't want to be anywhere around when that happened!)

            Again--very nice work.

            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

            2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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            • #7
              Good call Country Campers, I've added a short ethernet cable from the inverter that just coils into the front bay. I've used it once already to change some settings and I'm sure I'll need it again, and it'll be great to have it just hanging out there waiting. These tall inverters are a pain to mess with the connections on the bottom when mounted.

              A great suggestion howson and something I probably should do for safety sake.
              David and Deana
              2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4, CC, SRW, 6.6L L8T Gas, MYD 6-Speed
              2022 Reflection 303RLS w/ Gen-Y Executive Gooseneck Hitch

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by WondersAwait View Post
                TheMcLellans I wired the D+ line directly to the main 12v power line from truck 7 way connector. Some decide to wire this to the lights 12v connection so that the charger is toggled on if the truck headlights are on; the problem with this for me is with my Sierra I prefer to run the headlights on automatic mode. I toggle the charger on/off via an upfitter switch in thr truck cab that is wired to an isolator, allowing or cutting the connection between the RV batteries and alternator via upfitter. It works exactly as designed and I'm very happy with the operation so far.
                Thank you David. Would mind detailing your DC run including your choice of solenoid/isolator used in your run from the truck battery? Many thanks.
                Mark & Julie
                2021 GD 303RLS; GooseBox Hitch; towed by Ram 3500 SRW

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by TheMcLellans View Post

                  Thank you David. Would mind detailing your DC run including your choice of solenoid/isolator used in your run from the truck battery? Many thanks.
                  I updated my schematic to include the truck portion of the DC to DC, contained in the bottom-right gray box below.

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                  I used 4awg all the way and ran the positive through the isolator and breaker linked below.

                  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEBXRS...roduct_details

                  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F76VJT2...roduct_details

                  I ran 14awg from the isolator to the upfitter switch simnply because it's the excess wire I had available. I ran 4awg all the way from the DC to DC through the anderson connector (and isolator/breaker on the positive line) to the truck battery.
                  David and Deana
                  2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4, CC, SRW, 6.6L L8T Gas, MYD 6-Speed
                  2022 Reflection 303RLS w/ Gen-Y Executive Gooseneck Hitch

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thank you David. Would you consider a smart isolator in the future that senses the voltage and actuates upon seeing 13.2 volts ?
                    Mark & Julie
                    2021 GD 303RLS; GooseBox Hitch; towed by Ram 3500 SRW

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I don't think I would. I use a smart shunt with Bluetooth monitoring for the batteries and stay pretty in tune with my levels, so when I'm low enough to need charging off the truck I am aware and like the ability to manually control the on/off for it; then I can watch how it's maintaining as I drive and flip it back off when the charge is good.
                      David and Deana
                      2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4, CC, SRW, 6.6L L8T Gas, MYD 6-Speed
                      2022 Reflection 303RLS w/ Gen-Y Executive Gooseneck Hitch

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm working on the next phase. Adding 2x 200w Renogy panels in addition to the 165w Furrion. I am planning on connecting them all together in series and running off the Furrion 50a controller. Eventually I'll probably end up getting a few more panels and changing controllers to Victron so I can have them all interface, but I've thrown a lot at this new rig already. We have to save some thing to do down the road!

                        I got up on the roof and confirmed my layout. I have brackets all installed and getting ready to mount the new panels (probably tomorrow if I'm lucky). The 165w furrion panel I have uses the ridiculous furrion proprietary connectors coming through the roof flange, which is frustrating. As a solution I left the furrion flange and connectors in place, then just snipped the lines a few inches down and terminated some new MC4 connections into the line allowing me to use a common connector but the stock lines and roof flange. When I eventually add more panels I'll end up having to run new wires down and will change this flange out for a better combiner box but for now this will have to do.

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                        David and Deana
                        2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4, CC, SRW, 6.6L L8T Gas, MYD 6-Speed
                        2022 Reflection 303RLS w/ Gen-Y Executive Gooseneck Hitch

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Depending on the location of the Furrion port you may want to add the new box in a different location. I have seen these located way in the back of a roof and upgrading the wiring would be impossible, even the ones located in the front the wires will more than likely be tied or fastened and not be able to be used to pull new wires.

                          Brian
                          Brian & Michelle
                          2018 Reflection 29RS
                          2022 Chevy 3500HD

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            WondersAwait

                            David - that's a nice setup... nicely done!

                            Question for you. What route did you use to run the cables for your displays to the control panel area? I would like to mount my battery monitor up there but haven't investigated fishing the cable up there yet. I don't really want to remove the wall panel in the bathroom to do this, so hoping there is a route you found from the main electrical area near the stairs?

                            Thanks for your help!

                            Ken
                            Ken & Sandra
                            2021 303RLS | 2020 F350 Lariat 6.7L 4x4 SB SRW

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                            • #15
                              KSC_Travels if you remove the command center panel off the cabinet it's mounted in, you get access into a small area between that panel face and the cabinet behind it. The plastic border trim piece just unclips/pulls off and then the panel itself is held on by 6 screws. Once you have access behind that you can see how those wires run towards the bathroom wall, through an opening into that wall, and then straight down. If you remove the rear wall in the pass through you can see where these wires all come down from that chase through the wall. I ran my cables through that. I found it significantly easiest to run a steel fish tape from the top down, then because my touch 50 display wires (hdmi and USB) are hardwired into the display, I pulled twine from the bottom up using the fish tape, then used the twine to pull the touch 50 cables down. The run from that command center cabinet to the front bay on a 303 requires hdmi and USB extension cables, but those are pretty cheap and easy to find.

                              Protip: when you run this line, include a small rope/twine that you can leave in place to pull any future runs you might need (even if you don't think you'll need any, it's good to have them).

                              David and Deana
                              2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4, CC, SRW, 6.6L L8T Gas, MYD 6-Speed
                              2022 Reflection 303RLS w/ Gen-Y Executive Gooseneck Hitch

                              Comment

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