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  • Converter Replacement Basics

    I’m planning to replace the WF9855 converter as part of adding lithium batteries. From reading prior posts and watching YT videos, the three most common replacement options seem to be:

    PD9145ALV (45 amp)
    PD4655V
    WF-9855-AD-CB

    Are there converters not listed that others have used to make this upgrade?

    Any guidance from those who have done this replacement, such as has one model shown to be short lived, have a quieter fan, easier to swap out with the factory installed unit, etc.?

    In talking to a couple of retailers that sell Progressive, one advised to go down to 45 amps while another said that going to a unit 5 amps above what the manufacturer installed is acceptable. Am I correct in my assumption that the change from a 55 amp charger to a 45 amp unit really won’t make a significant difference in charging time?
    2022 Reflection 280 RS
    2020 Silverado 2500 HD

  • #2
    BR549

    What model RV do you have?

    This will help with recommendations.

    Brian
    Brian & Michelle
    2018 Reflection 29RS
    2022 Chevy 3500HD

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    • #3
      2022 280RS.

      I need to figure out how to add that to my signature
      2022 Reflection 280 RS
      2020 Silverado 2500 HD

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      • #4
        So having a fifth wheel my suggestion would be to install the new converter out to the front storage where the batteries will be. This will cut down on voltage loss in the wiring from the stock converter placement to the batteries. I did this by taking an extension cord and plugging it into the back of the power distribution panel where the stock converter plugs in, then running it out to the front storage and plug the new converter in, you will have to remove one end and add a replacement end unless you want a big hole in the wall between the pass thru and the front storage. Actually what I did was just cut the female end off and when I got it to the front storage I mounted a standard 20 amp resceptacle and box, nice to have a receptacle in the front storage.

        Another suggestion is get as big of a converter as the batteries will handle, not knowing what batteries you have but if they can accept 50 amps of charge current get a 50 amp converter. The Lion Energy batteries will accept 100 amps so I got a 100 amp converter.

        When you plug the extension cord to where the stock converter is plugged in this will disable the stock converter and you can just leave in in place, might come in handy if the something happens to the new one.

        Hope this is helpful.

        Brian
        Brian & Michelle
        2018 Reflection 29RS
        2022 Chevy 3500HD

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        • #5

          BR549 Progressive is a good option, I have also used PowerMax with good luck. Since you are going with lithium you do not need a four stage converter, really they do best with a fixed voltage output. I run Lion Energy in mine and after speaking with them, this was their recommendation, let the BMS manage the charge rate and feed it a fixed voltage. If possible its best to move the converter as close as possible to the batteries to reduce voltage drop. If you are adding several batteries, you might want to consider a larger converter to cut down on your charge time, particularly if you are going to be using a generator. I run six 100ah batteries, and do my primary charging with the 125A output of my multiplus, but for a backup carry a PowerMax 100A converter. Even at 100A, if my batteries are depleted to half, thats three hours of generator time to charge them (ignoring solar for the moment). Going to a larger converter is easy if you are moving it closer to the batteries anyway, you just run large enough cables from the converter a short distance to the batteries, and then power to the converter. The easiest is just an extension cord (tied up out of the way) plugged into the old converter outlet behind the false wall.

          Below is a link to the PowerMaxPM3 on Amazon. This is great for fixed voltage, there is a switch on the side you flip and it outputs whatever voltage you set it to.

          https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM3-...s%2C100&sr=8-2

          Edit: Brian beat me to it, but its pretty much the same advice.
          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

          Neil Citro
          2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
          2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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          • #6
            Thank you for the recommendation on Powermax. It looks like a strong contender!

            My current plan is to add 3 LIONCore 100aH batteries. I’m not sure that really warrants a larger converter, but upsizing now certainly makes sense.

            As I recall, they used 6AWG from the battery to the disconnect before being routed to the main breaker panel. Since you are putting the converter closer to the batteries, I’m guessing that you are also replacing the stock cables with heavier gauge wire in order to use a higher amp converter? Is that the only stretch of DC wiring that would have to be replaced?

            Did you open the coroplast to run the extension cord between the front storage bay and the outlet behind the breaker panel or is there another route?

            2022 Reflection 280 RS
            2020 Silverado 2500 HD

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            • #7
              Originally posted by BR549 View Post
              Thank you for the recommendation on Powermax. It looks like a strong contender!

              My current plan is to add 3 LIONCore 100aH batteries. I’m not sure that really warrants a larger converter, but upsizing now certainly makes sense.

              As I recall, they used 6AWG from the battery to the disconnect before being routed to the main breaker panel. Since you are putting the converter closer to the batteries, I’m guessing that you are also replacing the stock cables with heavier gauge wire in order to use a higher amp converter? Is that the only stretch of DC wiring that would have to be replaced?

              Did you open the coroplast to run the extension cord between the front storage bay and the outlet behind the breaker panel or is there another route?
              Yeah I pretty much rewired most of the 12v side at this point, but basically you end up with the factory 6AWG wiring feeding the DC distribution panel (which it is also doing now for you anyway), and then I ran dedicated wires the appropriate size from the converter to the batteries (I used a bus bar). For my 100A I ran 2 AWG cause I had a piece laying around.

              I ran mine up and over. So up across the top of the passthrough, through a hole I drilled and into the front bay. This is the route my solar wires followed as well as they dropped down behind the false wall.
              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

              Neil Citro
              2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
              2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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              • #8
                Just adding that the factory disconnect does not really disconnect the whole RV, it only disconnects the slides and maybe the awning. Turn the disconnect to the off position and pull the key out and then see what works and what does not work. When installing the new battery system I would recommend putting in a true battery disconnect on the positive side between the batteries and the factory breakers near the factory batterie box. Remove the old battery positive and attach your new wire there. This way you can disconnect all 12 v power from the RV to save battery power when not in use.

                Brian
                Brian & Michelle
                2018 Reflection 29RS
                2022 Chevy 3500HD

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Country Campers View Post
                  Just adding that the factory disconnect does not really disconnect the whole RV, it only disconnects the slides and maybe the awning. Turn the disconnect to the off position and pull the key out and then see what works and what does not work. When installing the new battery system I would recommend putting in a true battery disconnect on the positive side between the batteries and the factory breakers near the factory batterie box. Remove the old battery positive and attach your new wire there. This way you can disconnect all 12 v power from the RV to save battery power when not in use.

                  Brian

                  It actually shuts off everything on the fuse panel inside the rig. I'd agree a true battery disconnect is a good idea when reworking the system.
                  Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                  Neil Citro
                  2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
                  2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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                  • #10
                    Is there any wiring from the converter to the fuse panel?
                    Or are the only wires the 110v plug and the +/- wires from the battery?

                    once you placed the new converter in the front storage compartment, did you pull the unused battery wires out?

                    Would adding a 300 amp battery switch between the battery and the converter work as a disconnect?
                    2022 Reflection 280 RS
                    2020 Silverado 2500 HD

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                    • #11
                      Adding a disconnect between the converter and the disconnect does not interrupt the power flow in the right location. You need to interrupt it between the battery and the bus bar, or between the battery and the existing power wires. Depending on the unit, some go through a bus bar then the battery disconnect then to the panel. The issue is the bus bar supplies power to things like the break away switch, the gas detector, electric jack, etc. So there is always a draw on the system when the disconnect is disengaged killing partial power.
                      Joseph
                      Tow
                      Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
                      Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
                      South of Houston Texas

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by BR549 View Post
                        Is there any wiring from the converter to the fuse panel?
                        Or are the only wires the 110v plug and the +/- wires from the battery?

                        once you placed the new converter in the front storage compartment, did you pull the unused battery wires out?

                        Would adding a 300 amp battery switch between the battery and the converter work as a disconnect?
                        There are factory bus bars and circuit breakers, but the path is out of the battery,to the disconnect switch and then to the inside fuse panel. I essentially inserted my converter between the factory bus bar and the battery (I actually removed the factory bus bar).

                        Basically mount your new converter to the wall in the front storage. Run battery wires to the batteries. Unplug the factory converter and plug in an extension cord and run that to the new converter. If you want a true kill switch install it between the battery and the factory positive or negative wire (pages and pages of debate on that).

                        That setup will minimize the converter DC wire run and give you a shutoff that kills everything except the converter. Your factory on off switch will still be there, just leave it on.

                        Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                        Neil Citro
                        2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
                        2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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                        • #13
                          Dale B -- this thread may be applicable to your need to upgrade the stock converter.
                          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                          2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                          • #14
                            I totally 2nd everything said about getting a good / true battery disconnect switch in the new setup.

                            Some good charger options listed so far. Most in the Victron world would probably refer you to the Multiplus since it is a charger and inverter. I think that is one of the best solutions out there. However, if you want just a charger and not an inverter...Victron makes some excellent chargers as well. Personal opinion - I think Victron is some of the best out there.

                            Chargers:
                            https://www.victronenergy.com/chargers

                            I would recommend talking to a rep at a Victron dealer about which one is best for you. Battleborn is a dealer, but there are many others. Battleborn also sells Progressive and others listed above - I would definitely call and talk to a sales rep and ask some questions.

                            I would recommend you take a look at the Phoenix. If nothing else to get a comparison to what you are currently looking at.
                            https://www.victronenergy.com/charge...v#pd-nav-image

                            2020 Imagine 2400BH
                            2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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                            • #15
                              I really like Country Campers idea of moving the converter to the front bay by the batteries. It makes a lot of sense to have something like that more accessible as well as being closer to the batteries.

                              Yesterday was a bit of a revelation. When it comes to RV manufacturers specs, like Reagan said - “trust, but verify.”

                              My spec sheet shows that my trailer has a WFCO 9855 - even had a serial number. So after our first season of travel, the weather is now cool enough that I don’t mind the tight spaces under the trailer. I finally opened up the panel in the basement to get a look at the wiring and plumbing. What a mess.

                              But the biggest surprise was that the WFCO converter is actually a PD9260C. According to the tech support people at Progressive, that converter can be used to charge lithium batteries with the addition of the pendant. If that’s the case, it would certainly be a cheap way to move to lithium batteries now and change wiring and maybe replace and move the converter next year. Is the addition of a pendant too good to be true?

                              Has anyone used the PD pendant with a converter to charge lithium batteries?
                              2022 Reflection 280 RS
                              2020 Silverado 2500 HD

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