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  • #16
    HI

    Yes, the inverter has a VE.Direct port and i have it tied in to my poor mans Cerbo, which in my case is a Raspberry Pi. It along with all the Victron gear that supports VE.Direct are tied in there so I can monitor with the VRM application. I have fill time internet router in the RV so i can check on any time. Someday I will spring for the Cerbo as the Pi is a tab slow and can be problematic at times but a good learners platform. In my picture you will see the Pi mounted between the charger and one of the controllers.

    thanks
    AL
    Al and Diane

    2022 28BH - (6) Chins 100AH, MultiPlus 2, (2) 100/30CC, 1.4KW solar
    RAM 2019 2500 Cummins crew cab short bed
    PullRite SuperGlide

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    • #17
      David(COReflection)

      I have a 303RLS and went the “simple “route. First, don’t underestimate the power draw on that 16-cu ft Furrion Refrigerator. It will easily draw 100 amps during the non-solar producing hours and 159amps total for the day.
      My initial installation was 600w of roof top solar and after six months of usage I am averaging approx. 75% efficiency or around 450w due to the panels being mounted flat on the roof. So be conservative in your panel performance estimate. During the winter months you might need 400w just to replace the 100amp evening battery draw created by the Furrion Frig.
      With these numbers in mind, I installed Rich Solar 24v 200w panels. You can throw away the 165w panel and save money. The savings can be applied to a Victron Controller which will convert the 24v down to 12v and is fully programable and blue tooth enabled. The 24v panels will allow you to utilize the existing wiring up to 1200w

      Last point, I could not find an inverter with a built-in transfer switch that was compatible with the inverter prep package, so I installed a go power transfer switch.
      Last edited by Country Campers; 10-29-2022, 06:26 PM. Reason: changed font size
      Bill and Shannon
      2022 Reflection 303RLS
      2021 F250, 6.7

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      • #18
        Bill...thanks for the info. This forum is helping me work through the options and path forward. I did check to see which OEM converter that I have and unfortunately the model of PD that I have is not compatible with Lithium which I am quite surprised why an auto-detect is not installed in all of these new models. So given that...I need to buy a new charger anyways. If I price out a decent 2-3000 watt inverter, a manual transfer switch and then a charger...that is the same price or nearly the same as just getting the Victron Multiplus that many have recommended. That seems to make the most sense now if I need to spend the money to get the inverter working and get my LI batteries charged.

        So here are my next questions....if I go with the Victron....am I running new 50A wires for the 240 from that inverter/charger over to the AC side of the circuit breaker panel and unplugging the existing cord from my converter or how is that physically wired? I hear that some are leaving their cord intact and are not altering it in case they want to use it for later use. This means to me that they are running new wires from the Victron to the existing AC side of the RV fuse panel. I realize that I have the inverter-prep in the camper but it seems like I may not use it if I install the Victron. This means that I will likely power the entire AC breaker panel with the Victron if I go that route but I don't see us ever using the Air Conditioning or microwave with the inverter...only those few convenience outlets necessary for the TV, blue-ray player and sound system.

        On the solar charger...I like the idea of getting 24v panels and making the most of the wiring that already exists. Remember that I am using this for about 8 weekend boondocking trips throughout the summer and maybe a 10-day road trip as well. I am not doing any full-time camping or extended boondocking trips. Our average weekend trip is a Thur thru Sun. If I can get the batteries and the solar to suffice running my 12v fridge and I can watch a couple movies, use the pump for showers and water use, and use the lights...I am golden. Are you saying that if I want to use the 24v panels that I can remove the existing Furrion panel and MPPT charger and replace with the 24v panels and a new Victron solar charger which I can use to limit the voltage from 24 to 12?

        This is good stuff. Thanks for the help.
        40-year Camping Enthusiast
        2022 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS with tons of upgrades
        2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4 CC LB SRW D-Max 3865 Cargo Capacity

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        • #19
          I can only answer your third paragraph, you can purchase the 24v Rich Solar Panels for 250 bucks each on Amazon, you should buy the Solar Controller from DragonFly Energy ie Battle Born and this will get you a great customer service department and tech support that will help you make equipment and wiring choices. As a side note, I also installed a Victron Smart Shunt. The shunt and the Solar Controller give you the ability to monitor the solar and battery state with you smart phone. The system is simple and the information provided on the Victron App. is all that I feel I need. My wife and I think along the same lines as you, " lights, heater, a little TV and of course the blender for the summer adult beverage.

          The first two paragraphs are for the Victron "Geeks" (I mean Geek in a good way.)
          Bill and Shannon
          2022 Reflection 303RLS
          2021 F250, 6.7

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          • #20
            You will want to take the shore power connection out of the ac panel and connect that to the input side of the Multiplus, then out of the Multiplus to the ac panel where the shore power connection originally was. This is quite a bit of work but I am surely glad that we did it, having power to the whole rig is great.

            Brian ( 1 Victron Geek in training)
            Brian & Michelle
            2018 Reflection 29RS
            2022 Chevy 3500HD

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            • #21
              COReflection -- See https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...lts-f-350-mods for my wiring ("old" Multiplus).

              WondersAwait has an excellent Multiplus II diagram here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...mods#post90611

              If I missed someone and you posted your own diagram by all means chime in...

              Howard
              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

              2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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              • #22
                Thanks gents. I'll take a look. On my last rv, I replaced the converter and it had a cord with a special plug that plugged into the fuse/circuit panel rather than lugs for stripped wire. That's the reason for my question. Sounds like you are saying there are lugs in this GD breaker panel rather than that style cord with plug from the converter/charger. I'll have to take a look. I'm guessing the large gage wire is fun to fish up to the panel from the basement storage compartment?
                40-year Camping Enthusiast
                2022 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS with tons of upgrades
                2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4 CC LB SRW D-Max 3865 Cargo Capacity

                Comment


                • #23
                  Well I settled on a path....at least for now based on everyone's input and recommendations and the investment I wanted to make since I am only a weekend warrior camper throughout the summer.

                  I did utilize the "inverter-prep" circuits that came factory with the camper as I don't care about running the fireplace or the AC units from my inverter. Everything else seems to be powered through the inverter now and works awesome. I did buy an ATS and connect that to the "inverter-prep" circuits and then the output into my inverter. I routed wires from the front compartment into the cupboard where my switches are and can now see the inputs/outputs from my shunt monitor and have the ability to turn on/off my inverter. I upgraded my converter/charger to 120A with all my LiPO4 batteries and moved it to the front too so that everything is in one place and more efficient for voltage drops. I also added a shut-off switch for that charger that I can disconnect when on shore power if I wish. The setup was much cheaper than the Victron although I love that system. I spent more money for the batteries and less for the control system and inverter. I will likely upgrade my solar later depending on the results from the other upgrades. I have a few more house cleaning things to do in the front area but I'm pleased with how it's turned out and the minimal investment I had to make. Thanks to all for their input and recommendations.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  40-year Camping Enthusiast
                  2022 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS with tons of upgrades
                  2022 GMC Sierra 3500 AT4 CC LB SRW D-Max 3865 Cargo Capacity

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by COReflection View Post
                    Well I settled on a path....at least for now based on everyone's input and recommendations and the investment I wanted to make since I am only a weekend warrior camper throughout the summer.

                    I did utilize the "inverter-prep" circuits that came factory with the camper as I don't care about running the fireplace or the AC units from my inverter. Everything else seems to be powered through the inverter now and works awesome. I did buy an ATS and connect that to the "inverter-prep" circuits and then the output into my inverter. I routed wires from the front compartment into the cupboard where my switches are and can now see the inputs/outputs from my shunt monitor and have the ability to turn on/off my inverter. I upgraded my converter/charger to 120A with all my LiPO4 batteries and moved it to the front too so that everything is in one place and more efficient for voltage drops. I also added a shut-off switch for that charger that I can disconnect when on shore power if I wish. The setup was much cheaper than the Victron although I love that system. I spent more money for the batteries and less for the control system and inverter. I will likely upgrade my solar later depending on the results from the other upgrades. I have a few more house cleaning things to do in the front area but I'm pleased with how it's turned out and the minimal investment I had to make. Thanks to all for their input and recommendations.

                    Click image for larger version

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                    Looks like a nice "clean" and well done install. Keeping an eye on these solar/lithium/panels/equipment needed/etc. posts. Some day, I might even know enough to "not burn the house down" when and if I tackle this lol !

                    Thanks, for the update !

                    Dan
                    Dan & Carol
                    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
                    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD - 2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

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