Transcend Xplor redirect of heat duct into underbelly?

[Rivers Smith]

Question folks……Even running the furnace set at 80 during these windy teen nights my underbelly is not staying warm enough to prevent freezing temps in the belly. I have a heat vent at my ankles if I’m setting at my dinette. It is located right by the fresh water pump which is also under the dinette seat. What would be the problem with removing the duct from the vent and redirecting it back into the underbelly. This would be simple to do and I can use a towel to close the hole into the underbelly where the duct use to come up from?? I only need to operate the furnace when it is at or below freezing because my space heater keeps my temp at 70 even in 40 degree weather??

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Rivers Smith,

Welcome to our Grand Design Technical Owners Forum.

You might want to do some investigation into why there is not enough heat currently getting into the underbelly. Perhaps the ductwork is twisted or crushed? Unfortunately, this probably requires dropping the underbelly coroplast. If you get into it this far, you might want to consider additional insulation. There are several threads on related ideas. Here is a place to start. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...derbelly/page2

Rob

[Rivers Smith]

My first response is from Rob, how fortunate I am! Thank you for the welcome I am glad to be here. I have used this site for much info and see you involved in a lot of it.

My TT does not have a dedicated underbelly heat duct as do some of GD rv’s. The solid 40 plus hours of low teen temps with 20 to 30 mph winds along with the park water being shut off for 6 hours (while leak fixed) enabled a small blockage to occur (I’m thinking above the low water point drains). If I were able to maintain the trickle in sinks I don’t think I would have had a problem.

I am thinking the redirect of the duct to the underbelly would have prevented it. I already have a heated hose and placed a small space heater in the thruway to keep the docking station warm.

If or when I do have to drop the cloroplast and work in the belly I for sure will look to add some of the ideas you led me to in the link!

Thx

[Cate&Rob]

My TT does not have a dedicated underbelly heat duct as do some of GD rv’s.

In the Grand Design online info for your Transcend 240 ML it states "Heated and Enclosed Underbelly " . . . so there must be a duct somewhere going down there.
https://www.granddesignrv.com/showro...nd-xplor/specs see "Season Protection Package"

Rob

[Yoda]

My first response is from Rob, how fortunate I am! Thank you for the welcome I am glad to be here. I have used this site for much info and see you involved in a lot of it.

My TT does not have a dedicated underbelly heat duct as do some of GD rv’s. The solid 40 plus hours of low teen temps with 20 to 30 mph winds along with the park water being shut off for 6 hours (while leak fixed) enabled a small blockage to occur (I’m thinking above the low water point drains). If I were able to maintain the trickle in sinks I don’t think I would have had a problem.

I am thinking the redirect of the duct to the underbelly would have prevented it. I already have a heated hose and placed a small space heater in the thruway to keep the docking station warm.

If or when I do have to drop the cloroplast and work in the belly I for sure will look to add some of the ideas you led me to in the link!

Thx

The other critical thing is to be sure there is a path for the return air flow from the belly. By chance have you sealed any holes around plumbing or other floor penetrations? You might want to check under your sink to be sure the openings are clear and feel for air flow. This might give you a hint if the duck to the belly is compromised. Also if you have access to the back of the furnace check there to see if any of the connections have come loose.

Hope this helps

Keith

[Rivers Smith]

Sure will, thank you very much!