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  • 22MLE Heat at bed

    Has anyone else experienced poor air flow, and cold air from the heat vent at the bed in the 22MLE? I fired it up today and the heat at the furnace (in the kitchen in the back) and in the shower (also in the back) blow with sufficient force, and hot air, but at the bed (in the front) it was cold and hardly moving. I am thinking the duct may be torn open somewhere along the line, or is it the fact they use dryer duct with no insulation, and it is a bit of a longer run, which may be causing the cold air and low flow?
    Josh & Kristen
    2017 F-150 Eco-Boost
    2020 - Imagine XLS 22MLE

  • #2
    The air at the bed was just warm with nighttime outside temps ~40 degrees back in late October. It’s winterized now so we haven’t tried it in colder temps. My thinking is it’s a long run. Like you, the bath and kitchen are very warm and with good force.
    2010 Tundra SR5 DC 5.7L
    2020 Imagine XLS 22MLE
    Andersen WDH
    Dexter E-Z Flex Suspension Kit
    2018 Rockwood Mini Lite 2104s
    2014 Jayco x17z Hybrid

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Josh T View Post
      Has anyone else experienced poor air flow, and cold air from the heat vent at the bed in the 22MLE? I fired it up today and the heat at the furnace (in the kitchen in the back) and in the shower (also in the back) blow with sufficient force, and hot air, but at the bed (in the front) it was cold and hardly moving. I am thinking the duct may be torn open somewhere along the line, or is it the fact they use dryer duct with no insulation, and it is a bit of a longer run, which may be causing the cold air and low flow?
      I've looked at your floorplan but can't tell where your furnace is and the bedroom ducts. I am guessing your furnace is in the back somewhere. Having just worked on my furnace and some of the ducting, bathroom specifically, I would recommend you try the easy stuff first.
      1) Be sure all your ducts are connected to your furnace, Be sure they are properly connected and nothing is restricting the flow.
      2) Your bedroom duct is going to have to go through the floor near the furnace. Be sure the duct has a good radius when going through the floor and not kinked.
      3) Be sure the front panel on your furnace where the ducts connect is securely attached. Mine was not so a lot of air loss around the panel.
      4) Remove your registers in the bedroom and see how much extra duct comes out with them. I had the round register in our bathroom. When I removed it and pulled out the duct I got about 3-4 feet of duct. Way more than was needed. I removed about 2 feet of the duct.
      5) I would have to defer to someone else to know how the duct would go from the back to the front through the frame cross members above the coroplast. There could be a problem in the run from the back to the front. But keep in mind the furnace doesn't have a lot of force behind the air it puts out. So the run from the back to the front is a long one and it could all be related to not enough air speed/volume.
      Mike & Lisa
      Central Florida
      2021 Imagine 2970RL
      1996 Chevy K3500 Crew SRW 7.4L Gas

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Josh T View Post
        Has anyone else experienced poor air flow, and cold air from the heat vent at the bed in the 22MLE?
        Yes.
        Since your furnace is located in the rear, left of the kitchen sink, you can get a good look at the duct connections by removing the lower drawer. Also, remove the "winterizing" instruction cover behind the sink cabinet doors.What you will see is that the largest ducts, with the shortest runs feed the bath and kitchen area. The smallest duct (which exits the furnace on the right side) feeds the bedroom. Look closely at the sink drain pipe and see if that duct is "squeezed" at that point before it enters the floor directly under the sink itself.

        Since the duct is small and consist of a long run with the biggest section underneath the floor ( think colder) I'm guessing the air in the duct tends to be cooler. Since the force is much weaker, it's going to take some time to displace the cold with the warm so yes, it is cold when the furnace cranks up. After a period of time though, it should feel warmer but the force will still be weak. That stated, mine is reduced (somewhat crushed) at the drain pipe and I plan to re-route the pipe to allow a little more flow. Unless it is compromised underneath, I doubt it will ever have a massive flow at the bed register.
        I had thought about installing a fan of some type to assist in pulling the heated air through the duct but it isn't high on the list at this point.

        Robert and Chris
        2021 XLS 22MLE (somewhat factory stock)
        2018 Silverado 1500 Z71 Crew Cab

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Josh T View Post
          Has anyone else experienced poor air flow, and cold air from the heat vent at the bed in the 22MLE? I fired it up today and the heat at the furnace (in the kitchen in the back) and in the shower (also in the back) blow with sufficient force, and hot air, but at the bed (in the front) it was cold and hardly moving. I am thinking the duct may be torn open somewhere along the line, or is it the fact they use dryer duct with no insulation, and it is a bit of a longer run, which may be causing the cold air and low flow?
          An inline booster similar to this one may be an option if it becomes a problem. Not sure where could mount it. The other issue is the smallest one of these I can find is a 4" and the smaller duct is a 2". If the low airflow really became an issue I would imagine you could build something with some PVC and a computer/pancake fan.

          Mike & Lisa
          Central Florida
          2021 Imagine 2970RL
          1996 Chevy K3500 Crew SRW 7.4L Gas

          Comment


          • #6
            I appreciate all of the input.

            Tigger1 I agree that it is the long run after reading all of the input. I live in Vegas so my test was around that same 40 mark.

            OurNewEra The furnace is tot he left of the kitchen sink between the shower and kitchen sink. 1.The ducts are all connected. After delivery I had to tape one back together right at the furnace, but it is holding. 2. There is not an obvious kink at the furnace where it goes into the floor. 3. It appears to be installed correctly, I don't notice any air outside of duct work. 4. I will try that, just not sure how it is ran under the floor to the 90 it would have to make going up under the bed, then the other 90 to the register which is driver side of the bed blowing toward the wall. 5. I am leaning toward it being a long un-insulated run causing the issue.
            I am thinking that a booster fan may be a good fix, but like you point out, 2" is a bit small for a typical designed booster fan. Perhaps a damper on the kitchen to help force air into the other lines more may help as well.

            Capt Bob I will take a closer look, but I didn't notice any kinks. That is disappointing that it is the smaller duct for that long run, I would have guessed the larger that goes out the right side was feeding the bedroom. I think a small fan to assist may be the easiest solution, otherwise I am looking at dropping the underbelly and trying to use insulated duct, which seems like a daunting task for little reward.

            Thanks again for the input, I appreciate your time.
            Josh & Kristen
            2017 F-150 Eco-Boost
            2020 - Imagine XLS 22MLE

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Josh T View Post
              I appreciate all of the input.

              Tigger1 That is disappointing that it is the smaller duct for that long run, I would have guessed the larger that goes out the right side was feeding the bedroom. I think a small fan to assist may be the easiest solution, otherwise I am looking at dropping the underbelly and trying to use insulated duct, which seems like a daunting task for little reward.

              Thanks again for the input, I appreciate your time.
              In our 2970RL we have an island and there are standard heat registers on both sides of the island towards the rear of the trailer. The distance between these registers and the furnace is maybe 8 feet. They run a 4" off the furnace down through the floor and then up at the end of the island. The air flow out the heat registers is pretty weak.

              I'm not an HVAC expert but I do know that standard design practices reduces, or steps down the main duct the further you run the duct work. So a small 2" line for the length of run in your 22MLE is probably appropriate. The same for my shorter run with the 4" duct.

              My opinion is that the furnaces are very inefficient for directing airflow into the ducts. The furnace basically has a squirrel cage fan that blows air into a second cavity that has the heat exchange elements. This cavity basically fills up with air and then flows out the ducts. On my furnace I have two 4" ducts on the end and two 2" ducts on the top. The air just blows around in the heat exchanger compartment and isn't very efficient at moving through the ducts other than the openings are the pat of least resistance. We're not going to get the type of airflow that we see in our home central heating system.

              Here is a YouTube video presenting a good overview on the RV Furnace. According to this video an RV furnace is only 36% efficient. I would believe that.


               
              Mike & Lisa
              Central Florida
              2021 Imagine 2970RL
              1996 Chevy K3500 Crew SRW 7.4L Gas

              Comment


              • #8
                I have the exact same problem!!! Same model trailer so I understand your issue.

                MY SOLUTION!!!

                The issue is a two inch duct and what a 20 foot duct run. By the time, it travels that far in a 2” duct the column is virtually nothing and the heat is zero heat.

                Not much way to overcome that. Therefore it is a waste of heat sending any up that duct. So I disconnected that 2” duct and put a new duct (2 foot run) to the right hand wall of the sink and cut a new hole and new register. This dumps whatever heat goes into the 2” duct into the living space. Not at the far end but at least it is not wasted.

                your post is 3 years old so I assume you already did something to this.

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