It looks like I need to replace the control board in my 25G's Suburban SF30Q. The board is way back in there, but it looks like it's on slides and may just pull out... Does anyone know, to replace the board, does the furnace need to come out? Is the board held captive and if so how do you release it? Just looking for tips before I start jerking on things. Thank-you.
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Replacing the control board in a Suburban SF30Q.
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Originally posted by Dan P View PostIt looks like I need to replace the control board in my 25G's Suburban SF30Q. The board is way back in there, but it looks like it's on slides and may just pull out... Does anyone know, to replace the board, does the furnace need to come out? Is the board held captive and if so how do you release it? Just looking for tips before I start jerking on things. Thank-you.
BrianBrian & Michelle
2018 Reflection 29RS
2022 Chevy 3500HD
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Dan P Been a long time since I pulled one apart, but from memory, I pulled the board from the back side not the out side. In doing that, you need to be cautious of the igniter wire that is attached to the coil. I broke the connector when pulling the board out (was not working on the board, but mud dobber buildup on the fan).Joseph
Tow Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
South of Houston Texas
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Dan P
Here is a photo of the furnace that I have.
This is taken from the blower end which should be the end visible from removing the cover on the outside of the RV. There is a metal plate , marked by the arrow , that has to be removed to allow the circuit board to slide towards you. To remove the metal plate there are 4 screws that hold the upper blower cover on , 2 marked with the circles 2 on the lower portion. If you can remove the blower cover enough and remove the wire connections on the board you should be able to replace the circuit board with out removing the whole furnace. I am not sure if your furnace is horizontal or vertical but this should be the same for both.
Hope this helps,
BrianBrian & Michelle
2018 Reflection 29RS
2022 Chevy 3500HD
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Thank-you Bryan. I just looked at mine again and tugged on it a bit. The blower end of the board is free but the back, or heat exchanger end is captive which is where you mention a metal plate. I'll look at separating the blower cover tomorrow and flinging the meatal plate. If you look at my pics, can you see anything different from your situation? Thanks!
2021 Momentum 25G2 Photos
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The furnace I have is a SF 35Q, same but a little different. I do not see the metal strip in the slot on yours that I have outlined on my photo. If you are up to it the whole furnace unit slides right out. You will have to disconnect the gas line, and the wires on the left of picture 2, then there is 2 screws , one is the lower left of picture 2, the other should be on the other side same position. This should allow the complete unit to slide out of the the furnace box, would make it much easier to service the board.
BrianBrian & Michelle
2018 Reflection 29RS
2022 Chevy 3500HD
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Originally posted by Dan P View Post...The blower end of the board is free but the back, or heat exchanger end is captive which is where you mention a metal plate. I'll look at separating the blower cover tomorrow and flinging the meatal plate. ... 2021 Momentum 25G
Suburban SB521099 3G Furnace Fan Control Board
Gene and Kim
2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD
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gbkims
Gene,
Where do you find this kind of information? Is there a secret part of the web that we mere mortals do no know about?
You always seem to find the most useful and informative information , inquiring minds need to know.
BrianBrian & Michelle
2018 Reflection 29RS
2022 Chevy 3500HD
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I just hunt and peck to see what I can find.
Image searching sometimes gives me a clue.
Gene and Kim
2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD
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Gene, there isn't a screw in any of the rivets. Perhaps through the board where I can't see it. Either way, looks like I'll have to slide it (the whole unit) out of the cage. It's so odd to be engineered this way... Any comment on the Dinosaur Electronics board?
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Originally posted by Dan P View PostGene, there isn't a screw in any of the rivets. Perhaps through the board where I can't see it. Either way, looks like I'll have to slide it (the whole unit) out of the cage. It's so odd to be engineered this way... Any comment on the Dinosaur Electronics board?
I've never used their furnace board but I've used their Atwood water heater replacement and Dometic fridge replacements with great success.
Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
Neil Citro
2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab
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Ok, after going a VERY long way around to learn how everything is put together, I can now tell you that the control board in a 2021 SF30Q furnace is not held captive by anything other what I'll call a plastic snap in, on the back of the top rail that the board slides in. Had I not been so cautious pulling on it, it would have popped out. Of course the 1st replacement board I purchased wasn't correct. The kind folks at Dinosaur say I need a Fan50 Plus Pins. Now that I'm familiar it shouldn't be much more than a 30 minute job to swap boards... Cheers.
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Originally posted by Dan P View PostOk, after going a VERY long way around to learn how everything is put together, I can now tell you that the control board in a 2021 SF30Q furnace is not held captive by anything other what I'll call a plastic snap in, on the back of the top rail that the board slides in. Had I not been so cautious pulling on it, it would have popped out. Of course the 1st replacement board I purchased wasn't correct. The kind folks at Dinosaur say I need a Fan50 Plus Pins. Now that I'm familiar it shouldn't be much more than a 30 minute job to swap boards... Cheers.
I have the same situation. I'm trying to swap the control board with out pulling the furnace. Mine is the model SF35VHQ. It is actually only a few weeks old and under warrenty but here on Long Island the mobile RV techs have a 3 month backlog and it is going to be a hassle to take it to a dealer. I drove it home from Elkhart and the first night the furnace worked for 15 min and that was it. I see that power is going to the board when the thermastat is calling for heat but the red wire to the fan is always off. It appears to be a bad relay on the board. From you photos mine is very similar except it is mounted vertical with the control board at the top. The board wiggles but something is holding it captive. Are you suggesting to give it a strong tug and it will release? Also the white wire connector doesn't move when trying to remove it.. Am I just being to gentle with it.
Lou Cetrangelo
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Originally posted by Flyn2high View Post
Hi Dan:
I have the same situation. I'm trying to swap the control board with out pulling the furnace. Mine is the model SF35VHQ. It is actually only a few weeks old and under warrenty but here on Long Island the mobile RV techs have a 3 month backlog and it is going to be a hassle to take it to a dealer. I drove it home from Elkhart and the first night the furnace worked for 15 min and that was it. I see that power is going to the board when the thermastat is calling for heat but the red wire to the fan is always off. It appears to be a bad relay on the board. From you photos mine is very similar except it is mounted vertical with the control board at the top. The board wiggles but something is holding it captive. Are you suggesting to give it a strong tug and it will release? Also the white wire connector doesn't move when trying to remove it.. Am I just being to gentle with it.
Lou CetrangeloForum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.
2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus
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Hi Lou. My memory has faded on this issue but if I remember correctly, there was no reason that the board shouldn't have popped out of its keeper (for lack of a better word) and slid right out. But if not aligned perfectly it gets stuck. I don't recall difficulty with any wire, but I did have it out...... Now with all that said, after learning how easy it was to slide the furnace out of it's cage, I think I'd recommend doing so. The Dinosaur board didn't fit tightly so I used a bit of RTV to keep it from vibrating or wiggling around. In my case, the outside cover came off to access the furnace, the gas line was disconnected and pushed out of the cage, the wires removed from one side of the connector (just lift the lever but take a picture) and pushed outside the cage, then one screw in the bottom held the furnace in the cage. The furnace wiggled out fairly easily. Total tome to get the furnace out was only a few minutes once I figured out it was like a cartridge in a cage. You don't have to play with ducts or anything. Having it out make it easy to inspect everything too. Cheers
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