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As a full-timer GD did me right with the heated basement. THAT'S nice.
After replacing that leaky elbow on the furnace, during function test I noticed the basement was REALLY getting heated- as in all 4 "top hats" (duct adapters that key into the "case") were super sloppy and most of the heat was leaking out between the case and the adapters. And worse, my furnace is an SF35V- vertical, so the sub-basement/tank warmer duct hose on top was touching the floor and the blow-by was cooking the beans out of the subflooring "tyvex" looking plastic stuff on there.
So all that seems like a waste of propane. I mean the coach heated up nicely aright but yeesh. Don't seem to efficient when most of the hot air was going into the basement.
Ordered up some of this (NOT foil tape (useless for this)- this is a thick, super-sticky aluminized glass-fiber mat):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R6F97C9...roduct_details
...and double-patched the subfloor that was getting blasted with really hot air and popped in few staples so it can't come down, covered the allum. ralls in the area as well with leftovers, wrapped some scraps around some PEX tubes/joints/conductors that were way too close to hot duct hosing, etc. etc. Then cut some small shim strips to put on the outside of the case so the duct adapters seal up from the inside better and don't rattle, etc. etc. etc.
Couple hours of banging my head, getting cramps and the usual stuff but man it worked, cost was next to zero for the gain. Did 3, 10 min. heat cycles, no smoke, looks good. Checked at a couple vents inside with a tissue and before was OK now it'll blow it straight out with more authority. Massive, massive improvement and that should save a bunch of propane. Is everything sealed up 100% Course not, but it's 80% better at least. Still got one more tidy up to do where a duct hose goes into a plenum and the flange has two self tappers on one side of the flange, nothing on the other and LOTS of failed foil tape (foil tape is good for wrapping AROUND a duct and sticking to itself, pretty much that's it) trying to hold it all together and if the flow and temp is just right it sounds like a duck call I kid you not and I swear I saw a mallard cupping his wings for a landing on the roof this morning...no ducks on the roof please, they make a BIG mess up there. Gona take a timeout, pretty dinged/bruised up from living in the basement the past few weeks and my neck has a permanent bend in it, but it was well worth it.
-pv.
Pics:
#1-2: this stuff is good.
#3 : double-patch the sub-floor (basement roof) to stop the roasting, then make a gasket for the adapter, trim top duct hose back past holes in it (this warms the tanks in the pit, ) trim the "top hat" down an inch with a dremel wheel for more clearance and radius the cut inwards, both help stop tearing of the foil hose, etc. (this one took a while and I poked a hole in the hose the first re-install dragging it over the corner of the furnace case....so I got to START ALL OVER in that tiny space)...
#4: little shims from scrap matting draw the adapter tighter against the inside of the case...worked a treat.
#5: protect that PEX....this scrap heat shield is about 8" from the furnace so it's still in the hot hose zone.
#6: next project.....ugh. The sometimes not all the time duck call failed foil tape flapping wheezing flange install that's needs to be redone....odd thing is there is actually room to do it right hahahaha..oh well...save it for next time.
After replacing that leaky elbow on the furnace, during function test I noticed the basement was REALLY getting heated- as in all 4 "top hats" (duct adapters that key into the "case") were super sloppy and most of the heat was leaking out between the case and the adapters. And worse, my furnace is an SF35V- vertical, so the sub-basement/tank warmer duct hose on top was touching the floor and the blow-by was cooking the beans out of the subflooring "tyvex" looking plastic stuff on there.
So all that seems like a waste of propane. I mean the coach heated up nicely aright but yeesh. Don't seem to efficient when most of the hot air was going into the basement.
Ordered up some of this (NOT foil tape (useless for this)- this is a thick, super-sticky aluminized glass-fiber mat):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R6F97C9...roduct_details
...and double-patched the subfloor that was getting blasted with really hot air and popped in few staples so it can't come down, covered the allum. ralls in the area as well with leftovers, wrapped some scraps around some PEX tubes/joints/conductors that were way too close to hot duct hosing, etc. etc. Then cut some small shim strips to put on the outside of the case so the duct adapters seal up from the inside better and don't rattle, etc. etc. etc.
Couple hours of banging my head, getting cramps and the usual stuff but man it worked, cost was next to zero for the gain. Did 3, 10 min. heat cycles, no smoke, looks good. Checked at a couple vents inside with a tissue and before was OK now it'll blow it straight out with more authority. Massive, massive improvement and that should save a bunch of propane. Is everything sealed up 100% Course not, but it's 80% better at least. Still got one more tidy up to do where a duct hose goes into a plenum and the flange has two self tappers on one side of the flange, nothing on the other and LOTS of failed foil tape (foil tape is good for wrapping AROUND a duct and sticking to itself, pretty much that's it) trying to hold it all together and if the flow and temp is just right it sounds like a duck call I kid you not and I swear I saw a mallard cupping his wings for a landing on the roof this morning...no ducks on the roof please, they make a BIG mess up there. Gona take a timeout, pretty dinged/bruised up from living in the basement the past few weeks and my neck has a permanent bend in it, but it was well worth it.
-pv.
Pics:
#1-2: this stuff is good.
#3 : double-patch the sub-floor (basement roof) to stop the roasting, then make a gasket for the adapter, trim top duct hose back past holes in it (this warms the tanks in the pit, ) trim the "top hat" down an inch with a dremel wheel for more clearance and radius the cut inwards, both help stop tearing of the foil hose, etc. (this one took a while and I poked a hole in the hose the first re-install dragging it over the corner of the furnace case....so I got to START ALL OVER in that tiny space)...
#4: little shims from scrap matting draw the adapter tighter against the inside of the case...worked a treat.
#5: protect that PEX....this scrap heat shield is about 8" from the furnace so it's still in the hot hose zone.
#6: next project.....ugh. The sometimes not all the time duck call failed foil tape flapping wheezing flange install that's needs to be redone....odd thing is there is actually room to do it right hahahaha..oh well...save it for next time.
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