Dump Cable Lubrication

[Cate&Rob]

I find the thought of trying to re-create that solution on my rig a bit daunting. So Rob, how much would it cost for you to do this for others in your spare time?

Hi Jerry,

Great that you found your way to this forum !! This is a group of very creative and helpful owners!

I also find the thought of re-creating what I built under my Reflection . . . "rather daunting" LOL! It just grew more and more complex one-step-at-a-time . . . I have had a lot of my house/car/boat/RV projects go like this .

In retrospect, I would give the following advice:

Dropping the coroplast is not nearly as difficult as many make it out to be. If I had realized this, I might never have invented the bomb bay doors! Take it down from the front to the axles and you have access to everything. Putting it back just means lining up existing holes and fasteners. Cutting the coroplast will not get you the full access that you need and is just asking for future problems.

Cut the main drain manifold into three pieces. One for each gate valve. The 3" ABS rubber sleeve connectors are available at any plumbing supply store. This lets you deal with any one gate valve without loosening (and causing problems with) the other two.

Replace a gate valve and pull cable as a "system". Carefully route the new cable following the instructions that come with it. (Valterra). My "easy pull" cable routing does not look anything like the original routing used by Grand Design. Straight in/out of the pull handle and straight in/out to the gate valve. Long gentle bends in between. Shortening the cables has been recommended by others. My experience is that this is not the way to go.

Grease zerks on the gate valves really work! The problem is that dropping the coroplast just to grease these is probably not reasonable. As much as I dislike the idea of cutting holes in the coroplast, it would not take a very big hole to be able to reach in and grease a gate valve.

Take note of my earlier comment about the major friction point in a gate valve being where the pull shaft comes through the rubber grommet as it exits/enters the valve. There is no way to lubricate this interface with any of the conventional cable or tank contents "lubrication theories".

Rob

[Jerry Kuiken]

Great advice Rob and very much appreciated. Since my coroplast does not have any seams in the entire length of the trailer, if I remove the fasteners from the front to the axles as you suggest, how do I move the coroplast material out of my way as upon initial inspection it appears to be rigid? If it is not rigid can I roll it up towards the axles to provide access to the valves, cables, etc.? I have my rig parked under a large carport in the country about 10 miles from my house, so I want to arrive ready to work on it without leaving it open underneath any longer than necessary. Cheers

[Cate&Rob]

Jerry Kuiken
Hi Jerry,

Just lay the coroplast down on the ground. It actually makes a very clean and comfortable surface to lay on while working on things . A word of caution . . . the “new” coroplast is more rigid than what was used in previous years . . . but, I assume that it can still be laid down on the ground when it is unfastened from the frame.

Rob