Cutting Coroplast to access tanks.

[KirbyRVA]

I haven't tried this myself, but from what I've read* (must be true since it was on the internet, right?) the underbelly tape shown below will work.

*The recommendation was actually by Second Chance Rob, so I'm sure it's a good choice! I'm going to try it...

Thanks. I will get some of that if the dealer doesn't close it up.

[Beachcamper]

Mobile tech is scheduled for this coming Thursday. Consensus from Rob is that cutting the coroplast will lead to more problems down the road and I am thinking it through, he might be right. There has to be an easier way to access these valves. Next trailer I will have valves that are accessible and not routed to the panel with cables. I am never camping in freezing weather and winter in south Florida

[ncitro]

Mobile tech is scheduled for this coming Thursday. Consensus from Rob is that cutting the coroplast will lead to more problems down the road and I am thinking it through, he might be right. There has to be an easier way to access these valves. Next trailer I will have valves that are accessible and not routed to the panel with cables. I am never camping in freezing weather and winter in south Florida

If you never camp in freezing weather, and do not care that the handles are remoted, you could get a valve that goes on the inlet and just leave your black valve open. Still use the grey as needed (less chance of paper fouling it up) so that the black will not backup into the grey, but you do not need to worry about the cabled black valve causing you issues you cannot access. I got one of these when my black valve was leaking to hold me over until I got under there to replace it. I did decide to glue it on after it spun off a few times while taking the cap off.
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-...7397666&sr=8-1

[Beachcamper]

If you never camp in freezing weather, and do not care that the handles are remoted, you could get a valve that goes on the inlet and just leave your black valve open. Still use the grey as needed (less chance of paper fouling it up) so that the black will not backup into the grey, but you do not need to worry about the cabled black valve causing you issues you cannot access. I got one of these when my black valve was leaking to hold me over until I got under there to replace it. I did decide to glue it on after it spun off a few times while taking the cap off.
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-...7397666&sr=8-1

I have that very same one have have been using it for a year now. Any newbie reading this, get one 👍🏼 It is great when traveling and avoiding that small amount of liquid that always seems to come out when you open sewer cap. We have also been able to equalize grey tanks when boondocking. We are now using it to shut off our black tank as it leaks a bit of water and ends up drying it out. Not good at all to not have water in the tank. The handle is difficult to close and won’t close all the way. I have tried all kinds of advise to try Like flushing tank from inside toilet, back flush, etc. and we do not put in a lot of toilet paper only the #2 paper.

[ncitro]

I have that very same one have have been using it for a year now. Any newbie reading this, get one 👍🏼 It is great when traveling and avoiding that small amount of liquid that always seems to come out when you open sewer cap. We have also been able to equalize grey tanks when boondocking. We are now using it to shut off our black tank as it leaks a bit of water and ends up drying it out. Not good at all to not have water in the tank. The handle is difficult to close and won’t close all the way. I have tried all kinds of advise to try Like flushing tank from inside toilet, back flush, etc. and we do not put in a lot of toilet paper only the #2 paper.

I would bet based on my experience that once you get the valve out you will find something inbetween the seals that is keeping the blade in the valve from closing all the way. I had a chunk of "material" that had hardened to almost concrete. I had considered the electric valves, but thought I would try another cable for now.

[Cate&Rob]

I would bet based on my experience that once you get the valve out you will find something inbetween the seals that is keeping the blade in the valve from closing all the way. I had a chunk of "material" that had hardened to almost concrete. I had considered the electric valves, but thought I would try another cable for now.

Attached is a picture of the plastic "turning" (probably from cutting the inlet hole) that I found stuck between the seals of my black tank gate valve. This valve had never sealed well from new . . . and this is obviously why.

A comment that I have made previously, which lends itself to why you should drop the entire coroplast back to the valve manifold rather than cutting a hole to access the problem valve . . . is that it is almost impossible to replace one gate valve between the tank and pipe flanges without loosening the other two gate valves to get some "play" in the pipe. Loosening the other gate valves can cause problems with dislocated seals there . . . which is why I came up with my way of cutting the manifold into three pieces . . . one for each valve.

Rob

[Beachcamper]

The mobile tech asked me if I wanted to convert the valves to electric. I asked if that would solve the problem of stuff getting caught in the blade area as Rob posted. He said “no, but it is just easier”. I don’t want to keep spending money on this and it seems the issue is the valves not the cables.

vivian

[Cate&Rob]

The mobile tech asked me if I wanted to convert the valves to electric . . .

I seriously considered electric valves, but got to thinking . . . what will I know when one of these eventually fails? Will I have to sort out the problem based on how it sounds? With the manual pull valves you get to know the “feel” of when it is right and when there is a problem. A gradual change can be felt before you get to failure. I went with the “KISS” principle and stayed with manual valves.

Rob

[Bhbery]

Does it help to use a valve lubricant?
https://www.amazon.com/Thetford-Drai.../dp/B000BGK2L0

[howson]

Does it help to use a valve lubricant?
https://www.amazon.com/Thetford-Drai.../dp/B000BGK2L0

The answer is "it depends". If the problem is in the cable itself, no. If there's "gunk" on the knife blade--maybe. If the problem is in the knife blade cavity--probably not.

If you want to read another of my tomes, here's a link to my experience with battling stuck valves: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...valves-315rlts