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”Canadian Tire” started as a tire store and grew into the largest car parts and hardware store in Canada. They now do a lot of other things like funding our Olympic teams. “Princess Auto” started as a parts supplier on Princess Street in Winnipeg Manitoba and have grown across the country. They are now big into tools and hydraulics.
These are two important stores for Canadians trying to build or fix anything. (I spend a lot of money in these two stores).
Yes that is the correct fitting (what I have in my spare parts bin)
2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
I got my pressure gauge at Princess Auto (although, I have seen the same gauge at CTC) and mounted it adjacent to the water control valve panel. See attached.
Rob
I am working on my parts list, but I'm having trouble finding a way to tie in the pressure gauge to the pex line. The pic Rob provided looks like a piece of copper tubing from a pex tee to the 1/4' FPT in the elbow to the gauge, with a bunch of fittings to connect it all. I talked to a plumbing supply place and they suggested teeing off a pex line to the gauge elbow and then using reducing bushings to get to 1/4" MPT.
I'd love to get some suggestions on how I can make this work.
2014 Ford F-150 Ecoboost / Max Tow / HD Payload
2018 Reflection 295RL
Here is a better picture (of a different installation). Step the 1/4" gauge to a 3/8 bushing to a 1/2" bushing and a regular Pex fitting with the cone washer inside will fasten to the 1/2" male pipe thread bushing. Some may recall that I installed a second pressure gauge in the bathroom vanity cabinet where I can see it from the main inside switch panel. I use this for monitoring remaining pressure in my accumulator tank, without having to go around to the water connection panel.
So I'm still at the planning stage for my Nautilus replacement project and I could use some more advise from others who have tackled this already or have experience with these things.
I'm still trying to figure out if I can physically maneuver in the basement area to do all this plumbing. That is a very tight space to work in, especially for us old guys I think I can access the connections behind the panel but there is soft hose running from the panel connections to the very back of the basement where it tees off to connect to the toilet and drop down below the floor for the low point drains and lines to the galley sink. I would love some suggestions on how to work in that small space and make crimp connections. Strangely the lines after the tee to the bathroom sink are pex and the drop below the floor is pex, but the 2 supply lines and the toilet connection are soft hose. Sheesh.
I also, for reasons only known to GD, have soft hose running straight up to my shower, through the wall. This looks like a tricky one. Has anyone been able to replace this soft hose, or is this one of the places to just live with it and connect it to the pex with a proper hose barb?
2014 Ford F-150 Ecoboost / Max Tow / HD Payload
2018 Reflection 295RL
Where Grand Design chooses to use Pex pipe or soft hose seems to depend on their assembly process. Many lines that used to be all Pex now even have soft hose "pigtails" to ease final assembly.
I have found the stainless steel clamp rings (as used by Grand Design) to be easier to both remove and install than the solid copper rings. They now make true "one-handed" fastening tools for these stainless steel rings. There are several different brands. A picture of one brand attached. I have no experience with this tool, but I can tell you that getting one arm to the crimp location would be much easier than getting two arms in there which I have to do with my larger two-handed crimpers. A one-handed tool is on my "wish list".
There has to be an access panel to the back of the shower faucets. From looking at the brochure for the 295RL, I am guessing that this might be in the back of the hanging closet. This should give you access to replace the soft hoses going to the shower. I would firmly fasten the new Pex to the old soft hose and pull the new line in as you pull the old hose out.
If you have to remove things like the water pump and furnace ductwork to get more working space, this is no big deal. Once you get these out of the way and have removed all the plumbing that you are going to replace, the space to work will get much bigger. I even removed a section of ABS drain that was easy to reinstall with commonly available rubber sleeves and clamps. Make the farthest in connections first and work your way out.
There has to be an access panel to the back of the shower faucets. From looking at the brochure for the 295RL, I am guessing that this might be in the back of the hanging closet. This should give you access to replace the soft hoses going to the shower. I would firmly fasten the new Pex to the old soft hose and pull the new line in as you pull the old hose out.
Rob
I thought the hoses went straight up the shower wall but on closer inspection, they go through the floor at the cutout for the shower drain. I assume they run under the shower pan and then bend up 90 degrees to run up behind the shower wall. I don’t see how I can pull pex through there.
And no obvious access panel in the closet - is there a good way to remove wall panels?
2014 Ford F-150 Ecoboost / Max Tow / HD Payload
2018 Reflection 295RL
There has to be access to the back of the shower faucets. Sometimes a removable wall panel behind the shower and sometimes a removable panel in the shower wall (usually below the faucets).
There has to be access to the back of the shower faucets. Sometimes a removable wall panel behind the shower and sometimes a removable panel in the shower wall (usually below the faucets).
Rob
We don't have an access panel to the back of our shower faucet either. I suspect that when and if the time comes I'll have to pull the faucet out and work through the through-panel hole in the shower surrond. Option B would be to cut an access panel in the back wall of our pantry.
John
2018 Momentum 395M
2018 Ram 3500 Dually
Every day is a Saturday, but with no lawn to mow.
We don't have an access panel to the back of our shower faucet either. I suspect that when and if the time comes I'll have to pull the faucet out and work through the through-panel hole in the shower surrond. Option B would be to cut an access panel in the back wall of our pantry.
Hi John,
Do you have a "service access" opening in the interior shower wall? Our Reflection has a 4" x 4" (approx) removable panel below the faucets which is the service access. Our shower faucets are against the outside wall . . . so no access panel from the back is possible.
Nope, Cate&Rob . No removable section in the shower panel or the wall behind the shower, which is in our pantry. I've looked several times and ain't nothing there! I'm not overly concerned. When it's time I'll figure it out. Thanks for checking back.
John
2018 Momentum 395M
2018 Ram 3500 Dually
Every day is a Saturday, but with no lawn to mow.
Does anyone know where I can get this (circled in blue) Mine I'm assuming was either pushed out due to Ice, or was severely cross threaded as the threads that screw into the manifold are completely messed up.
The one end with the hex shape has male threads that scres into the manifold. (The one in question is for the blue knob on the docking station) Those threads are pooched. Then from there, its a 90 degree elbow with male threads on both ends, then the pex fitting screws on to the elbow.
The piece I really need is the part with the hex nut part. It has a plastic insert and the elbow has a rubber tapered washer.
I've tried looking on various manufacturer sited but have been unable to find this part.
I'm hoping the threads in the manifold aren't pooched as well but I guess I won't find out til I get a replacement.
Failing to find the correct part, would there be an easy fix for this?
Thanks!
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No worries . . . The parts you need will be available at any Home Depot or similar. Your RV water system is constructed of residential pipes and fittings (plus some unique sections of soft hose . . . but, that is a longer discussion) The plastic elbow looks to be reusable. The "cone seal" fitting is broken (likely from freezing). Take that part to the hardware store and find a duplicate (usually in brass, but plastic will work). The soft seal stuck in the end of the elbow is actually part of the broken fitting.
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