This content is connected to the stuck Bristol valve thread here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...valves-315rlts but I wanted to separate this information so anyone searching for "handle" in the title will find it.
On my 315RLTS one of the two gray valve handles was broken. I'd already replaced two handles previously (because they also broke) and they weren't cheap. With the OEM handles proven to be unreliable I decided to make something myself. It's actually very easy, although they are not the fanciest looking things ever created. (But they are functional, inexpensive and easy to make!)
For those that like to skip to the back of the book and read just the ending, here's what they look like installed:
To make them yourself, this is what you'll need:
1/2" sch 40 PVC (I bought a 4' section from Ace Hardware--cost a whopping .24!)
Six 1/2" caps
Gray and Black Spray paint (optional)
3 ea 8/32 screws (I think the one's I used were ~1/2" long--it just has to go through the outer edge of the PVC and into the valve rod shaft)
Blue ThreadLock
5/32" drill bit
1/4" drill bit
DrillBlock (optional--but makes it easy to center the hole in the PVC) YouTube video showing how it works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFSZzFIltbU
Steps
1) ~3/4" from the edge of the PVC, drill a 5/32" hole in the center of the PVC all the way through.
-- The DrillBlock doesn't have a 5/32" hole, so I drilled a smaller 1/8" and then enlarged one hole to 5/32".
2) On one side, enlarge the hole to 1/4".
-- The 1/4" allows the valve rod assy to slide into the handle.
-- Since I had a 1/8" and 5/32" hole at this point, I enlarged the 1/8" to 1/4".
-- When you're done one side must have a 1/4" hole and one side must have a 5/32" hole directly across from each other.
3) Cut the the drilled PVC section down to a total of ~1 5/8".
-- The amount on both sides of the drilled hole should be close to the same. Doesn't have to be perfect--you'll understand why in a sec.
-- I used a miter saw with a high-quality, multi-toothed blade to get a smooth cut on the PVC.
Note: If making more than one handle (like I did) consider using the first one as the "master" and copy it's length by using it as a template before going on to the following steps. Much easier to make exact duplicates this way.
4) Insert the 8/32" screw into the 5/32" hole.
5) Press both cap ends on until they contact the side of the screw.
-- The handle should look like the example below.
-- The caps act like trim--that's why the length on both sides of the screw hole don't need to be exact. There's some "slop" allowed with the cap installation.
Note: I did not bother to glue on the caps--I don't think it's necessary. YMMV
6) Remove the screw, clean off all the stickers and glue residue and paint the handles accordingly.
7) Slide the 1/4" end over the valve rod assembly (where the old Bristol handle attached) and seat the handle until the rod is against the inside of the 5/32" hole.
-- You should be able to see the threads of the rod.
8) With a dab of blue threadlock on the thread, install the 8/32 screw. The screw's head should be snug against the PVC but don't crank on it.
-- If I'd had small enough washers to fit under the screw head I would have, but it worked fine.
Final Note: These can be made longer (with a fender washer underneath the screw to act as a spacer) but the handles must be installed vertically on the camper. There's not much space between the black and bathroom gray handle mounting location.
Any questions--fire away.
Howard
On my 315RLTS one of the two gray valve handles was broken. I'd already replaced two handles previously (because they also broke) and they weren't cheap. With the OEM handles proven to be unreliable I decided to make something myself. It's actually very easy, although they are not the fanciest looking things ever created. (But they are functional, inexpensive and easy to make!)
For those that like to skip to the back of the book and read just the ending, here's what they look like installed:
To make them yourself, this is what you'll need:
1/2" sch 40 PVC (I bought a 4' section from Ace Hardware--cost a whopping .24!)
Six 1/2" caps
Gray and Black Spray paint (optional)
3 ea 8/32 screws (I think the one's I used were ~1/2" long--it just has to go through the outer edge of the PVC and into the valve rod shaft)
Blue ThreadLock
5/32" drill bit
1/4" drill bit
DrillBlock (optional--but makes it easy to center the hole in the PVC) YouTube video showing how it works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFSZzFIltbU
Steps
1) ~3/4" from the edge of the PVC, drill a 5/32" hole in the center of the PVC all the way through.
-- The DrillBlock doesn't have a 5/32" hole, so I drilled a smaller 1/8" and then enlarged one hole to 5/32".
2) On one side, enlarge the hole to 1/4".
-- The 1/4" allows the valve rod assy to slide into the handle.
-- Since I had a 1/8" and 5/32" hole at this point, I enlarged the 1/8" to 1/4".
-- When you're done one side must have a 1/4" hole and one side must have a 5/32" hole directly across from each other.
3) Cut the the drilled PVC section down to a total of ~1 5/8".
-- The amount on both sides of the drilled hole should be close to the same. Doesn't have to be perfect--you'll understand why in a sec.
-- I used a miter saw with a high-quality, multi-toothed blade to get a smooth cut on the PVC.
Note: If making more than one handle (like I did) consider using the first one as the "master" and copy it's length by using it as a template before going on to the following steps. Much easier to make exact duplicates this way.
4) Insert the 8/32" screw into the 5/32" hole.
5) Press both cap ends on until they contact the side of the screw.
-- The handle should look like the example below.
-- The caps act like trim--that's why the length on both sides of the screw hole don't need to be exact. There's some "slop" allowed with the cap installation.
Note: I did not bother to glue on the caps--I don't think it's necessary. YMMV
6) Remove the screw, clean off all the stickers and glue residue and paint the handles accordingly.
7) Slide the 1/4" end over the valve rod assembly (where the old Bristol handle attached) and seat the handle until the rod is against the inside of the 5/32" hole.
-- You should be able to see the threads of the rod.
8) With a dab of blue threadlock on the thread, install the 8/32 screw. The screw's head should be snug against the PVC but don't crank on it.
-- If I'd had small enough washers to fit under the screw head I would have, but it worked fine.
Final Note: These can be made longer (with a fender washer underneath the screw to act as a spacer) but the handles must be installed vertically on the camper. There's not much space between the black and bathroom gray handle mounting location.
Any questions--fire away.
Howard
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