Replacing the Soft Hose in a 315RLTS

[ThePowells]

"Sharkbite" PEX? So that's a brand of PEX made by the Sharkbite manufacturer? Very interesting--can't wait to read that PDF in detail!

This forum is awesome--I'm learning a lot!

Actually that is something I neglected to mention. The Sharkbite Pex seems to me to be of better quality and snug up onto the connector barbs tighter when installing than the Apollo Pex.

[howson]

I've spent the last two days documenting and (trying to understand) the plumbing layout in my trailer. I completely disassemble the Nautilus panel and documented each part and piece. I then "reassembled" the panel in Photoshop, separating applicable systems into their own presentation. I did this for my purposes, but figured I'd post it here as a point of interest for others.

I'll post the six pictures and then also insert a PDF for those who'd like to download the document to examine it closer. The version uploaded here is very small for ease of download and due to forum restrictions.

One note not on the pic--the hand-written numbers on the tape were just to keep track of what-came-from-where. The numbers don't mean anything outside as a reference for me.

Edit: I should also add the plumbing (soft vs Pex, etc) is how I found it. The hoses and connectors you see in these pictures are literally the hoses and connectors that were on my Nautilus panel.

Howard

Update 27 May: I found a mistake so I took down the pics until I get them fixed. -Howard

continued on next post...

[howson]

...continued from previous post...

Update 27 May: I found a mistake so I took down the pics until I get them fixed. -Howard

Any questions...fire away.

Howard

[Retgw2]

...continued from previous post...

Update 27 May: I found a mistake so I took down the pics until I get them fixed. -Howard

Any questions...fire away.

Howard

Hi Howard,

I'm always amazed at the detail of your posts and sometimes wonder when you find time to sleep. I don't know if you have seen this document or not but as the installation instructions for the Nautilus system it has similar diagrams with actual measurements for reconstructing individual sections, at least where they directly connect to the back of the Nautilus panel. just in case it helps!

[howson]

Hi Howard,

I'm always amazed at the detail of your posts and sometimes wonder when you find time to sleep. I don't know if you have seen this document or not but as the installation instructions for the Nautilus system it has similar diagrams with actual measurements for reconstructing individual sections, at least where they directly connect to the back of the Nautilus panel. just in case it helps!

Yes, thank you! I've seen the diagrams but was afraid to "assume" I knew how my Nautilus would go back together.

I do the same thing when I disassemble something on my motorcycle. Each piece is documented as it comes off so I know for certain how it goes back on. (Even though I have a mx manual!)

Nice thing about being retired is there's no rush as I do these projects.

[steve&renee]

I completely disassemble the Nautilus panel and documented each part and piece. I then "reassembled" the panel in Photoshop, separating applicable systems into their own presentation.

Mr. Wilson,

I've been having some problems with the threads and fitting external hoses to the nylon "City Water Connection" inlet. I'd like to replace that fitting -- along with the "Black Tank Flush" inlet - with brass, or at least something less worn.

Can you advise/document how to remove those inlets?

-Steve

[howson]

Mr. Wilson,

I've been having some problems with the threads and fitting external hoses to the nylon "City Water Connection" inlet. I'd like to replace that fitting -- along with the "Black Tank Flush" inlet - with brass, or at least something less worn.

Can you advise/document how to remove those inlets?

-Steve

Mr. Wilson?



I'll take a look and get back with you on the two connections.

Howard

[howson]

I've been having some problems with the threads and fitting external hoses to the nylon "City Water Connection" inlet. I'd like to replace that fitting -- along with the "Black Tank Flush" inlet - with brass, or at least something less worn. Can you advise/document how to remove those inlets?

Steve,
The city water connection has a clip holding it on. It looks easy. But when I went to take it off, as I started to pry (gently--really--I was gentle!) the clip exploded into three pieces. Super brittle. (I was going to take it off anyway, so don't worry about it.) The issue is getting the clip started over that molded white retainer at the bottom.

Oh, and remove the screen and set it aside before trying to remove this assembly, too. Mine must have beamed up by Scotty because I can't find it anywhere. (I have a video that proves it was there moments before trying to take that clip off!)

The whole assembly is the valve we often reference when talking about trying to get water to pass (that's not under pressure) through the city water connection.




The black water flush is a similar Female to Male connector but without a valve inside. However, the way it is retained is totally different. I pulled the entire Nautilus panel out and still couldn't figure out how to get it out. Honestly, I'd probably cut it out with a dremel tool and then grind down those retainer clips so there's a smooth surface on both sides to install a new style connector. I'm not putting anything in it's place (moving the inlet much closer to the black tank) so I'll probably just install a cap on the back and a plug in the front along with a sticker saying this is no longer connected.



Howard

[howson]

While looking at the connectors for Steve I decided to pull off the faucet and give it a look, too. The spacing of the connectors is 4", so (almost) anything that is made for a bathroom sink will fit--at least as far as the spacing of the connectors.


What's really interesting is that the center quick-disconnect easily unscrews. That small white restrictor comes out, too, but there's another small hole inside that is a part of the fixture itself so there's nothing to gain by removing it.



To top it off , that's a 1/2" PEX connector! Knowing this, the possibilities of converting the output to something else is only limited by imagination. (I'm not a fan of that coiled blue hose.)



Howard

P.S. Tomorrow starts the rebuild. Wish me luck...Rob, check in often, please.

[ncitro]

Steve,
The city water connection has a clip holding it on. It looks easy. But when I went to take it off, as I started to pry (gently--really--I was gentle!) the clip exploded into three pieces. Super brittle. (I was going to take it off anyway, so don't worry about it.) The issue is getting the clip started over that molded white retainer at the bottom.

Howard

I feel you, this happened to me as well. I decided rather than replace it to use this hole for my pressure gauge, and I plumbed the main water inlet through a filter houseing and down below the bay, and put a hose quick disconnect on it. This makes it quite easy to connect the water hose when setting up, and all incoming water goes through the filter regardless of whether I am filling the tank or running full hookups. I will see if I can grab a photo tomorrow when I am at my shop.

[steve&renee]

the clip exploded into three pieces. Super brittle. (I was going to take it off anyway, so don't worry about it.)

.

Man, I'm sorry. But thanks so much for the info.

-Steve

[steve&renee]

The black water flush is a similar Female to Male connector but without a valve inside. However, the way it is retained is totally different. I pulled the entire Nautilus panel out and still couldn't figure out how to get it out. Honestly, I'd probably cut it out with a dremel tool and then grind down those retainer clips so there's a smooth surface on both sides to install a new style connector...

I agree with you: Dremel tool seems to be the only choice. Looks like the fresh water inlet tabs might need to be ground off as well to save the clip. That seems absurd.

I'll try to get in touch with the manufacturer today. There must be a way to replace these fittings without destroying the panel. The Nautilus P1 is made by BandBMolders:

http://www.bandbmolders.com

58471 Fir Road, Mishawaka, IN 46544
Phone: (574) 259-7838 Fax: (574) 259-7939

-Steve

[steve&renee]

The Nautilus P1 is made by BandBMolders:

http://www.bandbmolders.com

Got in touch with BandB about replacing the fresh water and black tank flush inlets today. They don't have technical support per se, but the customer service gal took my number and I got a callback from a sales guy who was quite savvy. He knew the design history of the whole Nautilus system. Between him and my visit to their website, here's some info for our site:

1. The BandB website has two PDF docs that are really useful: Nautilus-P1-Repair.pdf and Nautilus-.P1-Installation.pdf. The Repair doc has complete instructions on replacing the fresh water inlet. As to breaking the retaining clip, the sales guy was kind of surprised, but he pointed out that if you are doing a repair, the replacement part they sell includes a new retaining clip.

2. As for replacing the black tank flush inlet, he indicated that when the system was designed, they assumed that inlet would never need replacing? So the fitting is essentially permanently secured. I told him I was having a problem with the nylon threads on the fresh water inlet wearing down because my garden hose connector was metal -- and was anticipating similar problems in the future for the black tank fitting. He suggested I insert a permanent male metal fitting into the inlet and get an adapter for my supply hose. . . Otherwise, dremel tool and alternate fitting. The sales guy did say that in retrospect, the black tank flush inlet should have been designed to be replaced. . .

3. He asked how I was liking the Nautilus P1. For me, the only problem has been the need to flip the cone strainer fitting to depress the check-valve in the fresh water inlet when winterizing and sanitizing. He was aware of the issue. He dropped a nougat that I hadn't heard before. The released instructions for Winterize say to orient the Blue valve horizontal. This opens the valve to the fresh water tank. At design time, their guys didn't think it mattered, so they arbitrarily decided to say Blue valve horizontal. Now they think some systems may have issues with sucking air if the Blue valve is horizontal during Winterize. The sales guy suggested I try orienting the Blue valve vertical during Winterize. He said it *might* help. I'm definitely going to give this a try.

-Steve

[howson]

Got in touch with BandB about replacing the fresh water and black tank flush inlets today. They don't have technical support per se, but the customer service gal took my number and I got a callback from a sales guy who was quite savvy. He knew the design history of the whole Nautilus system. Between him and my visit to their website, here's some info for our site:

1. The BandB website has two PDF docs that are really useful: Nautilus-P1-Repair.pdf and Nautilus-.P1-Installation.pdf. The Repair doc has complete instructions on replacing the fresh water inlet. As to breaking the retaining clip, the sales guy was kind of surprised, but he pointed out that if you are doing a repair, the replacement part they sell includes a new retaining clip.

2. As for replacing the black tank flush inlet, he indicated that when the system was designed, they assumed that inlet would never need replacing? So the fitting is essentially permanently secured. I told him I was having a problem with the nylon threads on the fresh water inlet wearing down because my garden hose connector was metal -- and was anticipating similar problems in the future for the black tank fitting. He suggested I insert a permanent male metal fitting into the inlet and get an adapter for my supply hose. . . Otherwise, dremel tool and alternate fitting. The sales guy did say that in retrospect, the black tank flush inlet should have been designed to be replaced. . .

3. He asked how I was liking the Nautilus P1. For me, the only problem has been the need to flip the cone strainer fitting to depress the check-valve in the fresh water inlet when winterizing and sanitizing. He was aware of the issue. He dropped a nougat that I hadn't heard before. The released instructions for Winterize say to orient the Blue valve horizontal. This opens the valve to the fresh water tank. At design time, their guys didn't think it mattered, so they arbitrarily decided to say Blue valve horizontal. Now they think some systems may have issues with sucking air if the Blue valve is horizontal during Winterize. The sales guy suggested I try orienting the Blue valve vertical during Winterize. He said it *might* help. I'm definitely going to give this a try.

-Steve

Great info, Steve! Thanks for posting. I'm going to add this to the sticky Nautilus post. It's here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...9794#post19794

[howson]

KITCHEN SOFT HOSE REPLACED ("Phase 1" of soft hose project is complete)

I got the soft hose running to the kitchen faucets replaced today. This post will summarize what I did (and of course provide a few pictures). Due to the limitation of 5 pictures expect a few posts for this one topic.

The first issue to address is the why? question. Based on seeing first hand the frustration of a burst soft line ( Paul & Deb at last year's rally) and the expertise on this subject as documented extensively by Cate&Rob, I decided to be proactive and replace the soft hose at my convenience instead of in the middle of a camping trip. (For many it's a matter of when, not if, they will have a problem.) I've taken the coroplast down completely, so I'm tackling numerous "down under" projects while systems are accessible. The soft hose is the first of these projects. The kitchen's soft hose is the first section in the first project. (Did you follow that???)
Second issue--no, I didn't leak check the work yet. The Nautilus panel is still in pieces, so that's next before anything else gets taken apart.

So now to the point of this post. To orient the reader, the picture below shows approximately where I found soft hose going to the kitchen faucet. The soft hose was under the trailer between the floor and coroplast (joined to pex--pic in a sec) and then ran up under the sink through the island.



The soft hose was clamped to Pex with a coupling as shown in this picture. This is (obviously) under the trailer floor. The rail you see is the forward slide rail for the kitchen slide-out. (Should help you orient where this is under the trailer.) Note the tires, too.



This next shot is a "before" picture under the sink. I'd already done modifications in this area, so what you see is not OEM. The shutoff valves were added when I replaced the kitchen faucet with a standard house fixture. The foam at the base was also from me, too, as I tried to seal up the large hole from the island to under the trailer. Obviously the lights are not OEM, either.



The view below is looking straight down--you can see my concrete driveway! (Remember, the coroplast is down.) I initially found this large hole in the island due to the drastic temperature difference I'd feel when I opened the island's doors to access something under the sink. The hole is, of course, there to route the drain and water lines. Again, all the insulation you see sticking everywhere is from an earlier attempt to seal up this area.



The first task was removing the soft hose. I unhooked all the connections and fed the lines through the hole and left them laying on the ground still attached to the pex--just in case.

The next step was replacing the shutoff valves (I'd beaten up the other ones pretty good!) and routing the new Sharkbite pex. If you look closely you'll see the shutoff valves are a different style. The replacements are SharkBite Brass 1/2-in PEX Barb x 3/8-in OD Compression Quarter Turn Angle Valves. I made pex junctions below so if I need to it will be easy to swap out the shutoff valves. (Probably unnecessary, but did it anyway.)

Figuring out how to secure the valves was a challenge as I didn't want to add any support structures and the paneling is too thin. You can see what I did with 1/2" pex clamps with their mounting holes drilled out to 1/4" inch (so the zip ties passed through). All the trimmed zip tie ends were sanded down--they can cause a mean cut!



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