Replacing the Soft Hose in a 315RLTS

[JohnD]

This is an interesting read Howard. I feel like this nautilus system takes up way more space than necessary. My panel is shaped like an L, with the Nautilus facing you when you look in the cabinet, and the electric receptacle/cable input to the right. I've actually considered swapping the Nautilus side with the electric/cable side (90 degree swap), but the Nautilus panel is 11.5 inches, and the electric/cable side is only 11. I could potentially bump the assembly a couple of inches deeper into the cabinet though. If I could achieve this, then all of the plumbing could be moved back under my steps, and I would create a lot more room for my solar project. I'm rather surprised that this nautilus system doesn't have a simplified fixture on the back to complete all the interconnects.

[JohnD]

howson I've removed my panel and am wondering if you did anything to reinforce the 90 degree elbows coming from the valves on the Nautilus. These elbows do not have a swivel, so they seem to be hand tightened and then stopped such that they are pointing 90 degree from the panel. I can turn a couple of the elbows with my fingers, so I'm surprised they are water tight (didn't have any leaks). Did you remove the valves and put teflon tape on them or something similar?

[howson]

howson I've removed my panel and am wondering if you did anything to reinforce the 90 degree elbows coming from the valves on the Nautilus. These elbows do not have a swivel, so they seem to be hand tightened and then stopped such that they are pointing 90 degree from the panel. I can turn a couple of the elbows with my fingers, so I'm surprised they are water tight (didn't have any leaks). Did you remove the valves and put teflon tape on them or something similar?

No, I didn't John. While the elbows and other connections on the Nautilus weren't specifically checked for tightness, none were so loose that it was evident while re-assembling with PEX.

[JohnD]

BLACK TANK FLUSH (Part 2 - Complete!)

The first thing I did was cut off the white tabs on the back of the Nautilus panel that retained the connector and extracted it intact. (I'm going to mount a pressure gauge in the now empty spot on the Nautilus, mimicking what Cate&Rob has done on his panel).

howson I'm looking to move my black tank flush valve as well. I was hoping to just order a new one, but I can't find any inlets that don't have the check valve. Do you happen to know if the check valve can be easily removed if I order one with a check valve?

[JBill9694]

Not sure why you want to remove the check valve, JohnD . Ours don't seem to impact the flush and is a cheap, no brainer safety feature if I do a no brainer like forget to open the drain valve.

[howson]

howson I'm looking to move my black tank flush valve as well. I was hoping to just order a new one, but I can't find any inlets that don't have the check valve. Do you happen to know if the check valve can be easily removed if I order one with a check valve?

I had to go back through disassembly videos to verify, but it looks like the city water (white) valve assemble has a one piece valve insert. The insert is then secured to the back (I used a "C" clip as documented earlier in this thread). The pic below is the valve removed from the white coupler.



I'd give RVLocks&More a call (they are the parts distributor for BandBMolders) to ask where you can get one, as I can't find it on the website either. https://www.rvlocksandmore.com/B-B-MOLDERS Need

Phone is 888-400-9849, Monday-Friday 8am-5pm EST

[howson]

Not sure why you want to remove the check valve, JohnD . Ours don't seem to impact the flush and is a cheap, no brainer safety feature if I do a no brainer like forget to open the drain valve.

There's different check valves in the fresh water vs the black water system, John. You want the black water line to drain after disconnecting--leaving the water trapped in the line would be bad.

As the diagram shows below, the atmospheric check valve is higher than the flush connection. This valve is higher than the toilet (usually behind the shower handles in the wall).

[JBill9694]

There's different check valves in the fresh water vs the black water system, John. You want the black water line to drain after disconnecting--leaving the water trapped in the line would be bad.

As the diagram shows below, the atmospheric check valve is higher than the flush connection. This valve is higher than the toilet (usually behind the shower handles in the wall).

Thanks for the clarification.

[Boucon]

On my 315rlts there are 2 cold water lines coming from the rear of the camper up to the nautilus system. One feeds the hot water heater and the other feeds the fixtures. I'm wondering if connecting them to the same common rail behind the nautilus would cause any issues.

I plumbed my nautilus system exactly like the manufacturer B and B molders recommends. Only thing is there's only 1 outlet to feed the fixtures.

[Boucon]

Here's a copy of the installation instructions from the Nautilus system manufacturer. It helped me out tremendously. I was able to put it all together sitting at my kitchen table where it was nice and toasty.

[howson]

On my 315rlts there are 2 cold water lines coming from the rear of the camper up to the nautilus system. One feeds the hot water heater and the other feeds the fixtures. I'm wondering if connecting them to the same common rail behind the nautilus would cause any issues.

I plumbed my nautilus system exactly like the manufacturer B and B molders recommends. Only thing is there's only 1 outlet to feed the fixtures.

First--welcome to the forum from a fellow 315RLTS owner (and originator of this thread). To help newcomers quickly orient themselves to all the resources and norms of this forum, the moderators have put together a Welcome Letter to New Members . That bold red text is a link to the thread, so I hope you'll take a moment and give it a read.

To your question: the thread Nautilus P1 Panel Information in the Plumbing channel's Reference Material section has diagrams that show how the Nautilus 1.0 system is plumbed. The short answer to your question is if you tie the lines together there won't be a way to isolate the hot water tank (red valve).

[howson]

Here's a copy of the installation instructions from the Nautilus system manufacturer. It helped me out tremendously. I was able to put it all together sitting at my kitchen table where it was nice and toasty.

This manual (and more!) are linked in the Nautilus P1 Panel Information thread I mentioned in the other response. I hope you check it out.

There's a lot of information in all of the Reference Material sub-channels--I hope you'll browse their contents. I'm sure you'll find useful information!

Howard

[Boucon]

The short answer to your question is if you tie the lines together there won't be a way to isolate the hot water tank (red valve).

Thanks for cutting to the chase in your reply! Now I understand why a check valve is needed at the water heater outlet, for isolation purposes preventing backflow. You answering my question raised another one that the diagrams on the nautilus information thread didn't show. I still have 4 lines and 3 connection points so something is going to have to be tied together. My question is now where does the hot water feed for the fixtures connect? That line runs from my kitchen faucet all the way to the nautilus panel. Would teeing off at the water heater outlet check valve cause any issues? It would effectively shorten the run and hot water would make it to the fixtures faster. The other leg of the tee would still feed hot water to the nautilus panel but the hot water wouldn't have to double back to feed the fixtures.

I would have started a new thread, but being that this one is very similar to what I am doing and everything here has been so well thought out, I feel that for brevity sake I'd post here. This project is time consuming enough! Thank you all for the time you took in making this thread.

[howson]

Thanks for cutting to the chase in your reply! Now I understand why a check valve is needed at the water heater outlet, for isolation purposes preventing backflow. You answering my question raised another one that the diagrams on the nautilus information thread didn't show. I still have 4 lines and 3 connection points so something is going to have to be tied together. My question is now where does the hot water feed for the fixtures connect? That line runs from my kitchen faucet all the way to the nautilus panel. Would teeing off at the water heater outlet check valve cause any issues? It would effectively shorten the run and hot water would make it to the fixtures faster. The other leg of the tee would still feed hot water to the nautilus panel but the hot water wouldn't have to double back to feed the fixtures.

I would have started a new thread, but being that this one is very similar to what I am doing and everything here has been so well thought out, I feel that for brevity sake I'd post here. This project is time consuming enough! Thank you all for the time you took in making this thread.

https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...abled-disabled

Look at the diagram in linked thread for how hot water flows. Since you have a 315 like me, the washer circuit will be applicable (the diagram was made for someone without a washer hookup).

If the lines are T'd at the hot water heater the problem of not being able to isolate the output with the red valve is still an issue. As designed, when the output of the heater is isolated cold water flows to all of the hot water fixtures.

Bottom line: the limits of my knowledge and experience is that the output of the water heater must return to the Nautilus panel for water to flow through the camper correctly. Not saying it can't be done...I just don't know how it would be done without negating the Nautilus' function.

[Boucon]

I wanted to give an update on my plumbing endeavor. After much consideration I tee'd the hot water heater outlet right into the line feeding the fixtures and nautilus panel with success. For winterizing, if you look at the diagram and think of the check valve on the hot water heater as a dead end; you can theoretically move the hand drawn line connecting it to the diagram to any point long the red piping and it still function as designed. When functioning normally hot water can flow to the fixtures or the nautilus panel via the tee. Now my shower is literally instantly hot and my kitchen faucet gets hot in about 10 seconds. The only issue I had was trash in the line from the new pex got caught in the fresh water tank fill valve causing a drip from the tank drain. I was able to clear it out by relieving the pressure then manipulating the valve while I slowly turned the water supply on.

I now only have 3 low point drains that I put all together in the front of the rig so when I lower the tongue jack I can get as much water out as possible. I also installed water alarms under the hot water heater plumbing, behind the nautilus panel, and under the washing machine piping for good measure.

The planning and understanding was the most time consuming part of the job. I wouldn't recommend the average joe go at it willy nilly. Consult this thread and the nautilus manual and label your piping runs for the least amount of headache.