Kitchen Gray Valve Leaking (Bypassing)

[howson]

As many regulars will remember, I did an extensive amount of work to the plumbing while I had the coroplast down. It all started because the dump handles on the gray tanks were difficult to move--in one case it was rusted so badly the cable wouldn't slide in the sleeve at all.

Fixed all that and put everything back together. The kitchen gray valve (which I did not take apart) started bypassing, as evidenced by a buildup of fluid behind the external Valterra valve I'd added to the end of the drain pipe. While I didn't take the valve apart, I did mess with the cable attachment to the valve.

What I found was the block that holds the cable sleeve had split into many small pieces. Shattered is an apt description. Therefore when the handle was pulled the sleeve slid instead of the cable pulling the knife valve.

I had a replacement valve on hand so I took off the block and replaced that one piece. The new block is significantly larger.

What I suspect I might have done is 1) used too large of a screw which split the original block (without knowing it) or 2) the original block was much smaller and the multiple removal/installation processes during the initial work in the area weakened it.

So there's my tale of woe for the day.

[tgodrich]

As many regulars will remember, I did an extensive amount of work to the plumbing while I had the coroplast down. It all started because the dump handles on the gray tanks were difficult to move--in one case it was rusted so badly the cable wouldn't slide in the sleeve at all.

Fixed all that and put everything back together. The kitchen gray valve (which I did not take apart) started bypassing, as evidenced by a buildup of fluid behind the external Valterra valve I'd added to the end of the drain pipe. While I didn't take the valve apart, I did mess with the cable attachment to the valve.

What I found was the block that holds the cable sleeve had split into many small pieces. Shattered is an apt description. Therefore when the handle was pulled the sleeve slid instead of the cable pulling the knife valve.

I had a replacement valve on hand so I took off the block and replaced that one piece. The new block is significantly larger.

What I suspect I might have done is 1) used too large of a screw which split the original block (without knowing it) or 2) the original block was much smaller and the multiple removal/installation processes during the initial work in the area could weakened it.

So there's my tale of woe for the day.

Do you know if anyone has toyed with the idea of motorized valve controls, perhaps like the valves on my pool equipment? Just curious as this could replace the cable issues. I personally do not like the cable to valve set-up. My old trailer had pulls directly on the pipe just under the side of the trailer, about the same place as the Reflection. Never had a problem with the valve itself.

I am also curious how long the run is from each tank to the discharge pipe. Rob may know this as he has the same 303RLS as me and may have seen the setup with the coroplast down..

I am currently experiencing slow flow from both my gray tanks as well as some seepage when they are supposed to be closed (I always have water at the Valterra cap when I remove it). It is still under warranty, so I will be taking it in for this as well as my leveler problem.

Thanks,

Tony

[ncitro]

Do you know if anyone has toyed with the idea of motorized valve controls, perhaps like the valves on my pool equipment? Just curious as this could replace the cable issues. I personally do not like the cable to valve set-up. My old trailer had pulls directly on the pipe just under the side of the trailer, about the same place as the Reflection. Never had a problem with the valve itself.

I am also curious how long the run is from each tank to the discharge pipe. Rob may know this as he has the same 303RLS as me and may have seen the setup with the coroplast down..

I am currently experiencing slow flow from both my gray tanks as well as some seepage when they are supposed to be closed (I always have water at the Valterra cap when I remove it). It is still under warranty, so I will be taking it in for this as well as my leveler problem.

Thanks,

Tony

Electric valves are available, they are commonly used in higher end motorhomes. I looked into them when my black valve would not close all they way, but I decided to replace it with another cable valve. The difficulty is they are designed to be installed in a particular orientation that the design of our rigs makes somewhat difficult. I have seen some people that installed them in a different orientation and claim they work fine. Oh also they are quite expensive lol. I think they use the remote valves to help keep them from freezing. These are the two I remember looking at.

https://drainmaster.com/rv/products/mini-view2

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-E100.../dp/B004RCXC1G

[howson]

tgodrich
ncitro probably has this covered, but I think Rob ( Cate&Rob ) may also have some info on them as I seem to remember he researched the powered valves at one time, too. Hopefully he'll chime in when he gets a chance.

[Cate&Rob]

Pull cable routing leaves a lot to be desired in many installations. See this thread on that topic. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...-cable-routing

When I rebuilt my plumbing system, I considered electric gate valves but decided against these because if (when) a valve fails, you have no feedback, without dropping the coroplast, as to why it may have stopped working. Stuck open? Stuck closed? Electrical problem. With the manual pull cables, you have some "feel" as to what has changed.

Rob

[RV Tech Ret]

I agree with Bob on this - when the electric first came out a lot of folks had to have them, until they failed and they did.

The location of the manual valve in relation to the pull handle is the biggest problem. You would not believe the number of rigs that the cable is bent 90 degrees. Works for a while then stiffens and something breaks. Best recommendation is to pull them slowly and do not jerk.....

Mark