Plumbing rebuild project - goodbye Nautilus

[bogen2]

I have been concerned about all the soft hose and ridiculous complexity in the Nautilus P1 system in my rig for some time. After fitting failed on the back of the panel, I finally decided to completely rebuild the water system based on the designs of others (here and at the other site). So this is my attempt to help others who may wish to take on a similar project. Thanks to all who contributed, including @Cate&Rob and howson.

Here is what I was dealing with:



The goal was to eliminate all of the soft hose and replace the valves with standard plumbing parts available anywhere. I had been worried about the soft hose for some time, but the tipping point for me to get rid of the Nautilus panel too (which sure looked good in the showroom) was when I found out how much the replacement valves cost. At $40-60 each, it would cost me around $100 in Canada with shipping for one valve. (If anyone is interested in buying a full set of Nautilus valves for spares, PM me).

And here are 2 more reasons to get rid of all that nasty soft hose. There was soft hose routed from the back of the panel and over the furnace to link up with the fixtures. When I removed those hoses, they had been rubbing on a sharp metal edge on the furnace and were showing visible wear. It was only a matter of time before they would have burst, flooding water over the furnace. And if you need another reason, I installed a pressure gauge and found that the water heater builds pressure on the hot side to around 90 PSI when its heating up! No wonder the hot soft hose seems to fail a lot.

[bogen2]

It took quite a while to modify the existing designs done by others and to source all the parts. I used brass fittings and standard ball valves from some local home improvement stores and plumbing supply shops. I disconnected all the fittings and wires on the Nautilus panel and removed it. Then I ruthlessly cut out all of the soft hose and some of the existing pex - that was the scariest part, as it was the point of no return.




I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood and attached it to the old Nautilus panel. Before mounting the valves, I reused the black tank flush fitting by mounting it in a new location on the panel. To hold it in place, I used a piece of plastic tubing and made a set screw (by grinding off the point of a sheet metal screw) that holds the tubing in place.







Then I assembled the manifold with the 5 valves - four 1/2" pex ball valves and one 1/2" NPT valve - and attached it to the panel after drilling 3 holes for the pex to connect to the valves.




Next I started to install the new pex tubing. I started with the connections furthest from the panel. Once the water pump and dump valve cables were moved out the way, I could disconnect one of the furnace ducts and had reasonable access to everything at the rear of the basement.

[bogen2]

For the water heater, I decided to use three ball valves to create a bypass for winterizing. I removed the hot side check valve that would no longer be needed (another crappy plastic part likely to fail anyway) and built the bypass with swivel disconnects to make it easy to service the water heater if necessary. I used plastic fittings on the water heater to make sure there would be no problems with connecting brass and aluminum together. Not sure if this is needed but I thought why take a chance.




To remove the soft hose to the shower that was for some reason routed up through the hole for the drain, I drilled holes up through the bathroom floor into the space between the shower wall and the bedroom closet. Then it was a simple matter to push pex up through the hole and attach to the shower faucet.

Finally, I reinstalled the water pump and then connected everything together.




I looks complicated but actually quite simple. First determine where the water is coming from: hose or tank and open that valve. Then determine where the water is going: directly to the fixtures, through the pump or to the fresh water tank and open that valve. If those 2 valves are on opposite sides then open the crossover valve. All other valves should be closed.




I had planned on installing a pressure gauge, but wanted to be able to get pressure reading from both the cold and hot side. Then I found this Watts pressure gauge with a garden hose fitting. I attached it to the end of the coiled blue hose and now I can get pressure reading from either cold or hot just by opening the faucet. Also added a quick connect fitting to the hose connection and the black tank flush.





Everything worked as it was supposed to and no leaks! Although I had little prior plumbing experience, I was able to pull this job off with a lot of research and planning. Now I not only know exactly how my plumbing system works, I could repair any problem that might come up when I'm away from home. I now carry spare fittings and valves, some pex and the basic tools needed.

Overall, a very satisfying project that should help prevent any future problems.

[Cate&Rob]

bogen2
Hi Bob,

Great write-up with GREAT detail. Thanks for taking the time to tell this story.

For some reason, the post 2 pictures are not showing up. They are likely an important part of the story. If you can’t solve this yourself, one of the more computer savvy moderators (not me ) will help you sort this out.

Rob

[boyscout]

It took quite a while to modify the existing designs done by others and to source all the parts. I used brass fittings and standard ball valves from some local home improvement stores and plumbing supply shops.

Thanks for the write up but as @Cate&Rob has reported the pictures are missing from this post. Wild guess on my part: you included six photos in the post, whereas other sites I use won't handle more than five. Maybe that's the issue?

Thanks again.

[howson]

bogen2 ,
Ditto on Rob's comments--outstanding job. The documentation is excellent, too. I know the time it takes so "Thank you" from everyone here on the forum.

Looks like six photos were attempted in post 2--forum is set for 5 max per post. I looked but there wasn't anything attached at all, so possibly you're working on it? If you need help give me a shout.

Howard

[bogen2]

Thanks for the heads up. I changed it to 5 pics and it seemed to work.

[Schiefswret]

Thanks for the heads up. I changed it to 5 pics and it seemed to work.

Great job! You may have missed your calling. I hear many people on the GD Mgfing line in Elkart earn $63/ hr.

[KamFlyer]

This looks like a very valuable thread and is well written but I am still missing several photos.
IMG_1424 in post #2, IMG_1430, 1436 and 1426 in post #3.
-Rob-

Never mind. Did a reload a few minutes later and all pics showed up.

[bogen2]

Great job! You may have missed your calling. I hear many people on the GD Mgfing line in Elkart earn $63/ hr.

Heh, I hope this is my last plumbing installation. I'm getting too old for this kind of thing.

It would actually be a simple job on the line without the floor installed. Which is why I don't understand why all the soft hose everywhere. I'm sure it makes the many connections at the panel easier (although howson demonstrated it can be done with pex) but why were the two 4' fixture feed lines done in soft hose and routed over the furnace where in my case they were rubbing against a piece of sheet metal - pex would be just as easy to install. The soft shower lines had 3 big bends in their routing, just begging to leak, but they could be connected with 2 straight pieces of pex that drop down right behind the panel. Same with the soft line to the toilet - it was routed around a drain pipe and had a kink in it - another leak waiting to happen. It was easy to build a pex connection with an angle fitting.

Pex is cheap and so are the plastic fittings they use, and it would take the installer maybe an extra few minutes to build and install all the lines with proper routing, so there really is no excuse other than saving a few pennies. GD really should be eliminating the use of this crappy hose. <rant mode off>

Bob

[JeffC]

bogen2 - I'm a little late to this thread but I want to commend you on this really nice job you've done.

I also want to let you know that I have a very nice spot for you in Tucson when you are out this way and would be glad to entice you with BBQ and cash to duplicate your efforts on my 310GK.

I suggest in February while the gem show is in town and there is no place to stay anywhere The gem show is an absolute must see if you are in the area.

...Just sayin...

[bogen2]

Not sure I would take on that project again without my shop and tools nearby. Tempting offer though...

[Hermes]

I am planning to do away with my Nautilus and do a rebuild, actually have been planning since shortly after purchasing our Solitude 2.5 years ago, but now it appears the Nautilus is in it's death throws so now is the time. I like what you (bogen2) have done and want to make sure I understand the connections from the valves to the correct lines. I would appreciate someone verifying and correcting my assumptions. In the photo showing the completed panel, on the left side top is the valve labeled pump I am assuming the pump outlet side is connected to this valve and the inlet side would be connected to the line going to/from the fresh water tank - is this correct? On the right side the valve labeled fresh water tank, I assume it is connected to the line going to?from the fresh water tank - is this correct? Also on the right side top is the valve labeled fixtures which I assume is connected to the line servicing all the fixtures - is this correct? Finally where would the cold water line from the hot water tank be connected to? I realize it would not be connected to the rebuilt panel. Thank you for any input on this as while I have done some plumbing - household and RV's, including working with pex using clamps I am not a plumber by trade.

[DarnDave]

Hermes bogen2 , OP will not likely see your question because you did not "tag" him. I included him on this so that he gets a notice when he logs in. Simply hit the @ button, and start typing the name of the person you are trying to get info from or to. It will eventually result in a pop up list; scroll down and select the proper name. Hope this helps, and welcome to the forum; there is much to learn here!

Dave

[Hermes]

Thank you for the helpful. Although it would be useful for the OP’s help and so thank you for including him, I equally welcome others input as I am sure there are others who have done the same or similar rebuild.