Winterizing Our Rigs

[Lonestar]

Last winter was the first year with my Reflection and the Nautilus system. I live in East Texas where winters are mild but we do get occasional freezing temps.
For the first time in 40 years of owning trailers I used anti-freeze. I've previously just drained and blew out the lines and never had an issue, even in years when we had days of below freezing temps. Also never lost a pump. Even my local dealer says they only blow out the lines on trailers setting on the lot.

With that said, my fear is the Nautilus system and trying to get the water completely out of all the connecting lines. I hear folks mentioning water standing in low points of the PEX tubing, but as long as there is room for the water to expand, along with the PEX being a little more forgiving, I still question MY need to use anti-freeze.

I guess with the price of anti-freeze I'll use it until I find out differently.

[Ajax Trueblood]

2019 Reflection 303 RLS. Looking for winterizing advice. We're in southern Utah, where its pretty warm, but can dip down to freezing. I've got a winterizing appt at the dealer on 1 Dec, but want to take appropriate steps now. And maybe won't need the appointment. Opening the low-point drains now, and then will drain the water heater. I can also plug into power so can keep heat running at low temp (should I do that?). So some initial questions:
- I have a gallon of pink antifreeze stuff, that I could put into the system. I remember doing that last year in Nov (we were static for a month). Should I do that if I keep the winterizing appt? If so, do I just pour it into the sink? Can't remember what we did last year.
- Gonna try to flush out the water tank (never done it), but do we leave it empty after its flushed?
- Anyone know a good video that shows winterizing a 303?
- Is there another thread I should review on the forum?

[TucsonJim]

2019 Reflection 303 RLS. Looking for winterizing advice. We're in southern Utah, where its pretty warm, but can dip down to freezing. I've got a winterizing appt at the dealer on 1 Dec, but want to take appropriate steps now. And maybe won't need the appointment. Opening the low-point drains now, and then will drain the water heater. I can also plug into power so can keep heat running at low temp (should I do that?). So some initial questions:
- I have a gallon of pink antifreeze stuff, that I could put into the system. I remember doing that last year in Nov (we were static for a month). Should I do that if I keep the winterizing appt? If so, do I just pour it into the sink? Can't remember what we did last year.
- Gonna try to flush out the water tank (never done it), but do we leave it empty after its flushed?
- Anyone know a good video that shows winterizing a 303?
- Is there another thread I should review on the forum?

Ajax. take a look at the video I linked in the second posting on this thread. It will tell you how to winterize your 303.

Jim

[Ajax Trueblood]

Thanks Jim. Follow-on question... the vid shows a water filter, but my Reflection 303 doesn't have one in that location. We've just always used one we put on the intake hose. Do I have one integrated in somewhere?

[Tom in PGH]

... I also purge the black tank flush with antifreeze as well...

Rob

How do you get antifreeze into the black tank flush?

[Cate&Rob]

Thanks Jim. Follow-on question... the vid shows a water filter, but my Reflection 303 doesn't have one in that location. We've just always used one we put on the intake hose. Do I have one integrated in somewhere?

There is no (OE) water filter on a Reflection, other than the screen on water pump intake.

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

How do you get antifreeze into the black tank flush?

There are manual pumps for putting antifreeze into the black tank flush. I use the outside (shower hose) connection which I have reconfigured to attach to a spray nozzle or the black tank flush.

(another) Rob

[Country Campers]

There are manual pumps for putting antifreeze into the black tank flush. I use the outside (shower hose) connection which I have reconfigured to attach to a spray nozzle or the black tank flush.

(another) Rob

Interesting enough I found the stock spray nozzle on the shower hose had the same male end as a garden hose.

Brian

[ThePowells]

How do you get antifreeze into the black tank flush?

I don't know the methodology of how Calbar does it, but two that comes to mind are 1) using a backflow preventer, once everything else has anti-freeze, use the outside shower hose to induce antifreeze while still drawing from the jug, or using some type of attachment (think lawn chemical sprayer or car wash sprayer) to induce antifreeze into the hose. Leave the back flow preventer on to hold antifreeze in the hose going in. My overall thought is that with the vacuum breaker at the high point of the hose that both sides should drain once the hose is detached, thus nothing to protect against.
Being somewhat risk aversive, my first spring (we bought in late February, first trip first week in March) I had read the freezing horror stories, thus when it got below 30 I got extremely concerned even though it was plugged up with the furnace on low. After much more research and becoming much more familiar with my build I was well more prepared for my 2nd winter. Even with 140 consecutive hours below freezing and three mornings of temps between -1 and 6 above, the only antifreeze was in the waste tanks to protect the valve as there was no alternative to protect them. I'm just glad that we could keep ours at home and plugged to 30 Amp power (now 50 w/ the Solitude) and hooked up to the large LP tank. Being full timer in it makes it way, way much easier.

[Cate&Rob]

My overall thought is that with the vacuum breaker at the high point of the hose that both sides should drain once the hose is detached, thus nothing to protect against.

This is correct in theory, and was the reason that I did not bother with antifreeze in the black flush line, in the early years. Once I opened up the underbelly, I realized that the flush line to the tank goes under and around several things on it's way there, so that it is not a consistent downhill run to the black tank. The thing that saves us, is that the flush line is the soft hose material which can tolerate freezing expansion . . . still better to put in some antifreeze (in my opinion).

Rob

[Calbar]

How do you get antifreeze into the black tank flush?

I use the outside shower and connect the blue coil hose to the black tank flush. Probably not the best idea since I could contaminate my water lines but I do sanitize the fresh water lines in the spring after I flush the antifreeze out. Maybe I should get a small antifreeze hand pump something like this and using it just to ensure safety though.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Antifre...5282479&sr=8-3

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

I use the outside shower and connect the blue coil hose to the black tank flush. Probably not the best idea since I could contaminate my water lines

Unless you have attached a contaminated hose (public dump station or similar) to your black tank flush, there is no way that a potable water hose will become contaminated by flushing the black tank, as long as you disconnect the hose when you are finished flushing and let the clean water drain back out in both directions from the vacuum break. This is the function of the vacuum break valve. The idea that the black tank flush connection is somehow contaminated by flushing the black tank is like saying you won't brush your teeth at the bathroom sink because the cold water line also flushes the toilet.

(another) Rob

[Calbar]

Unless you have attached a contaminated hose (public dump station or similar) to your black tank flush, there is no way that a potable water hose will become contaminated by flushing the black tank, as long as you disconnect the hose when you are finished flushing and let the clean water drain back out in both directions from the vacuum break. This is the function of the vacuum break valve. The idea that the black tank flush connection is somehow contaminated by flushing the black tank is like saying you won't brush your teeth at the bathroom sink because the cold water line also flushes the toilet.

(another) Rob

Thanks Rob,

Makes sense to me as well. Considering that I never connect anything to the black tank connection besides my own hose (not drinking water though I guess I could) and that I sanitize the fresh water system every spring no sense in buying a hand pump. I will keep winterizing as I have.

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

Calbar
Hi Rob,

I have long been a proponent of only use one hose between the campground supply and the trailer. There are several scenarios that can go wrong if a second hose is left attached to the black tank flush. I have elaborated on these in previous discussions. With one hose, it is either feeding the potable water system or flushing the black tank. No way to make a mistake.

I can’t count the number of times that I have seen two hoses connected to a trailer (one potable and one flush) and these T together at the post (as if physical distance from the trailer is some sort of safety measure). Then . . . they leave for the day and turn off the water at the post. Their black tank is now the only source of water for the potable system, through the T at the post. Luckily, the vacuum break can usually prevent this, but if it could not drain properly because the hose was left attached, there is risk.

A hose should never be connected to the black tank flush unless the tank is actively being flushed and the owner is watching over this. (In my opinion)

Rob

[Calbar]

Calbar
Hi Rob,

I have long been a proponent of only use one hose between the campground supply and the trailer. There are several scenarios that can go wrong if a second hose is left attached to the black tank flush. I have elaborated on these in previous discussions. With one hose, it is either feeding the potable water system or flushing the black tank. No way to make a mistake.

I can’t count the number of times that I have seen two hoses connected to a trailer (one potable and one flush) and these T together at the post (as if physical distance from the trailer is some sort of safety measure). Then . . . they leave for the day and turn off the water at the post. Their black tank is now the only source of water for the potable system, through the T at the post. Luckily, the vacuum break can usually prevent this, but if it could not drain properly because the hose was left attached, there is risk.

A hose should never be connected to the black tank flush unless the tank is actively being flushed and the owner is watching over this. (In my opinion)

Rob

Agreed. I only connect to the black tank when I flush. Never every leave the hose connected there.

Rob