Winterizing Our Rigs

[Guest]

Scott'n'Wendy Scott,

With those that have replaced the hoses from their systems and still found plenty of water, this confirms that air alone is not adequate to clear a system. So we need to be careful when providing advice where some rigs do have fittings below that can freeze. My Imagine had a hose blow off on a plastic fitting (Tee) that was right below the floor and under the kitchen. If GDRV ships units with anti freeze this also tells us they know water is left is the system and would save thousands if they could in using air alone.
After blowing out our system in city and tank fill positions and through all faucets, I blow out the black tank flush. 4 gallons of antifreeze is used to be certain there is no water anywhere in the system. Toward the end of flushing with antifreeze, the grey and black valves are closed to have some antifreeze in the tanks to keep the seals wet.

In the spring the system is flushed and sanitized. We bring RO water from our home to consume so there are no concerns with residual antifreeze that may be present.

I would have no concerns if I used antifreeze alone where the use of air makes it easier to clear the city and tank fill lines and the black tank flush.

Jim

[Scott'n'Wendy]

For sure do what makes you comfortable. I've been blowing out trailers with pex and plastic fittings for years with no ill effects so I'm comfortable that it is adequate. GD agrees with me..or at least one GD tech did. lol. Because of some of the concerns voiced here about air alone I contacted GD to see if there is something special about the GD plumbing that makes air a poor choice. I was told there is nothing wrong with using air. Both ways will do an adequate job if done properly.
Antifreeze is quicker...so maybe that's why factories do it.
After the system is blown out, I pour AF down the drains to protect the traps. This slightly overflows into the tanks. But I can't say I'm worried about the seals staying wet. Seals are rubber or viton...impervious to moisture..no? Feel free to school me on it, I don't see why keeping rubber wet is an advantage

Just to be clear...I'm not trying to convince anybody that my way is better. I prefer it because we use our fresh water system for drinking....AF screws up that system in my opinion by affecting the taste...badly. I used AF last year because of my unfamiliarity with the Nautilus panel. Now that I realize there is nothing special about GD/Nautilus plumbing, so I'm going back to the way I have always done it.
By the way Jim, you said you blow out at 60psi. That's pretty high imo. I've always stayed down at 35psi. Maybe that's why a fitting blew off? I also never dead end the air. Always have one valve open so there is no chance of blowing a fitting off. Like with hydraulics...super important to be aware of the difference between pressure and flow.

[Guest]

From the manufacturer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJ3lnI_Jqy4

Jim

[Country Campers]

I have used air to purge the lines on both our Reflection and our previous KZ model with no ill effects, never liked the antifreeze but have used it a couple times. Flushing the system in the spring and even a few times a year has kept it pretty good, and we do drink from it. I, well the wife has, noticed an odor from the kitchen sink a few times which we narrowed down to the rear spray port which we had not used only a few times. Now I run fresh water thru it at just about every trip to keep the water from going bad in the line.

I think using air is fine for anyone who wants to, I still do it in the winter months but I do have indoor storage.

Brian

[manderson]

Our new trailer has a residential fridge with an ice maker. We have not used the ice maker but I can't be sure that water hadn't been run through it either at the factory or the dealership. What is everyone doing to flush out this line?

[Guest]

Our new trailer has a residential fridge with an ice maker. We have not used the ice maker but I can't be sure that water hadn't been run through it either at the factory or the dealership. What is everyone doing to flush out this line?

Follow the manual or GDRV's advice to winterize on the new fangled fridge.

Folks here have confirmed water will still be left behind in the system with using air alone. Using air if fine, but follow up with the antifreeze as the manufacturer recommends it.

Some complain about the alcohol version where Starbright makes an Alcohol free version but its around $19/gallon versus about $3/gallon for the pink stuff.

Make sure whatever is used is safe for drinking water tanks.

http://www.starbrite.com/item/100-no...ategory_id=688

Jim

[TucsonJim]

Well... This is rather embarrassing since I started this thread. But since I live in Southern Arizona, I've only winterized my RV once in the last 25 years. My RV is taking a trip back to the mother ship in December for some factory repairs. Therefore, I plan on winterizing with anti freeze. BUT... How much A.F. do I need to purchase to do all the lines? 1 gallon, 2 gallons, more?

Thanks,

Jim

[Country Campers]

Well... This is rather embarrassing since I started this thread. But since I live in Southern Arizona, I've only winterized my RV once in the last 25 years. My RV is taking a trip back to the mother ship in December for some factory repairs. Therefore, I plan on winterizing with anti freeze. BUT... How much A.F. do I need to purchase to do all the lines? 1 gallon, 2 gallons, more?

Thanks,

Jim

I usually put about 3 or 4 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket, then I can easily go around and do all of the fixtures without changing jugs, some is good more is better and cheap insurance.

Brian

[Guest]

Same here. 4 gallons of -50F after draining.

Jim

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Wow. That seems like a lot. The one time I did the 303 with AF it took a gallon and a half. And I poured the rest down the traps.

[Guest]

I pour two gallons in the fresh water tank where the pump pickup and drain are a bit higher than the bottom of the tank in my rig. Two more are used to flush the fixtures through the winterization line in the Imagine after bypassing and draining the hot water tank. Cheap insurance IMO.

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

Even if you use air first (following owners manual procedure but unnecessary in my opinion) there will still be water coming out of each faucet before the antifreeze. Catch this with a container so that it does not dilute the antifreeze going into the drain traps and tanks. A “completely drained” grey or black tank will still have about 1/2” of water in the bottom. The more antifreeze you can put into these tanks to mix with this water, the better. If you used air first, you may have to position the jug of antifreeze higher than the pump to re-prime it. This will not be necessary if you skip the air step. Of course, there will be more water to catch before the antifreeze comes through, if you skip the air step.

Rob

[TedS]

I just winterized. About 1 and a quarter gallons of antifreeze. Opened low point drains, ran pump dry, drained water heater, set valves to winterize, blew out remaining water with air compressor, sucked in antifreeze 'til faucets and toilet blew out pink mist, poured some antifreeze into traps. My lines are probably not 100% full, but the antifreeze settles into any remaining water pockets and filled the pump.

Just for reference, 100 feet of 1/2 tubing holds about 1 gallon of water.

[Canyonlight]

Jim, don't forget the outside shower. Also some folks recommend using a hand pump to push some antifreeze into the black tank flush. I do not do this (tested once just to learn) and have had no repercussions from not doing every year. Depending on GDRV model and year along with water panel/system build this may or may not be part of the procedure. Our owners manual does not cover this.

I open all hot and cold faucets (including outside shower with head hanging down to the ground) pull the water heater plug and then remove the low point drains. I then go in and push the toilet flush to possibly release and water in that line out the low points as well. Whether all this works or not, I rarely get any water out of the faucets and toilet other than a bit from the kitchen. May be to the routing of the lines dipping down just laying on top of the coroplast to the center island.

After this I close all faucets, reinstall low point drain caps (yes, we vintage owners have caps to screw on and unscrew off) Follow winterizing instructions for water panel type and run antifreeze in. i just did mine yesterday and used about 1 1/2 gallons (with plenty in the traps) as usual.

Actually I did use more.......it helps to reinstall low point drain caps first !

I just love the thought of you having to winterize lol......or maybe a fellow GDRV owner is already lined up for the task and then an IPA treat when done !

Dan

[Guest]

I have the 1/2" PEX ball valves here so I will cut the low point cap fittings off and will use a PEX tool to install the valves. Then for additional insurance a 2 inch PEX line off each valve with a sharkbite cap. The low point drain caps are beginning to fail to seal so its time to eliminate them. This will make future winterizations dry and easy.

Dan, I use air on the black tank flush which would push out any water.

Jim