Lubrication of black and gray tank cables - Take II

[JBill9694]

FYI Yoda, I replaced my gray water cable about 4 months ago and the t-handle was riveted on. Had to slide the whole cable assembly through the front of the panel and then put the retaining nut on the backside. So I'm thinking your proposed plan will only work with older cables.

[Yoda]

FYI Yoda, I replaced my gray water cable about 4 months ago and the t-handle was riveted on. Had to slide the whole cable assembly through the front of the panel and then put the retaining nut on the backside. So I'm thinking your proposed plan will only work with older cables.

I guess I will try removing the screw and look?
Thanks
Keith

[Yoda]

Maybe check out something like these https://www.denniskirk.com/champions...4aAiqGEALw_wcB

Its not big enough to fit the 9/16 end.
Thanks for the thought though.
Keith

[Jkwilson]

Its not big enough to fit the 9/16 end.
Thanks for the thought though.
Keith

They very well may make others and might if they had an enquirer. Another thought would be the boat steering cable style. These are capped nuts with a port on the side. Not sure of the size.

Fighting an infection that has had me laid up for a week and can’t check sizes in my shop.

[Cate&Rob]

Maybe check out something like these https://www.denniskirk.com/champions...4aAiqGEALw_wcB

howson Howard tried one of these and it did not solve the problem because the binding is not between the center cable and the loose fitting sheath.

Rob

[Yoda]

howson Howard tried one of these and it did not solve the problem because the binding is not between the center cable and the loose fitting sheath.

Rob

Rob - your probably correct. I am just hoping to take one trouble spot out of the equation (cable). If my valves really start sticking I will probably do your zerk mod, but maybe with a remote connection set up.
https://locknlube.com/products/greas...SABEgJUQvD_BwE

I was thinking the other day that my adding the Dawn pre-charge in the black tank might actually lube the valve. I cant remember having a stuck valve since using it on any of my old trailers. On my old unit it was the cable that got rusty (but it was exposed). With only a few gallons of water and the soap in the pre-charge, the valve gets hit with a strong concentration for a while. I am thinking the dish soap helps keep it from sticking. It does suds up during travel and when dumping too. You don't hear much about stuck gray tank valves where soap is usually present. Thoughts?

[BWSTGDS]

Spent some time trying to free up these dump valves. Using 3/8"ID tubing, I added some PB blaster, and with a rubber tipped nozzle injected about 10-15psi air to push it along the cable. Followed that with some ATF, also pushed with compressed air - about 20psi. Held the pressure on the hose until I could hear bubbling under the trailer from the valves. It's pretty cold outside, so a heat gun helped soften the hose enough to slide it over the valve threads.

2 of the valves began to operate. With several cycles, the black tank valve and one grey tank valve are now serviceable. The kitchen grey tank valve moved just a little to the mostly open position, then would not close. So I will take that one apart. Was hoping not to lower the coroplast under the valves, but gotta do it now. Noted the cables between the valves and handles are routed pretty well, with no sharp bends or excess length.




This youtuber made a device that essentially does this - he is using 40psi air - pretty cool device.



RV waste tanks can’t be dumped? This lubricator works to free up and lubricate the cable. (youtube.com)

[howson]

BWSTGDS -- thanks for that video link! I just emailed Russell asking if he still makes and sells the "Lubricator".

[Lonestar]

BWSTGDS -- thanks for that video link! I just emailed Russell asking if he still makes and sells the "Lubricator".

Wonder why he says he uses a non-petroleum based lubricator? I'm thinking any good thin viscosity oil like Mobile One would work.

[howson]

Wonder why he says he uses a non-petroleum based lubricator? I'm thinking any good thin viscosity oil like Mobile One would work.

I emailed Russ and this was his response (he gave me permission to quote him):

The reason I use wd40 is because it’s thin enough to go through the cables , it also displaces moisture, and it won’t cause damage to plastic and rubber parts in the underside of your rv. Motor oil is very destructive to rubber and some plastics. Some of the cables I have lubed have taken a long time with pressure on it to get through. Any type of penetrating lube will work, we 40 is readily available and cheap. Motor oil is way too thick to be pushed through. Thanks, Russell DUCKWALL

[Jlawles2]

Let's also not forget that motor oil and a lot of other petroleum lubricants are bad for septic systems like those used in Campgrounds.

[Jlawles2]

BWSTGDS -- thanks for that video link! I just emailed Russell asking if he still makes and sells the "Lubricator".

Does he still make and sell the lubricator?

[howson]

Does he still make and sell the lubricator?

Yes. I ordered one. Here's his reply when I asked the same question:

yes I’m selling the lubricators. $25 for the lubricator, $11 shipping, if you need a schrader valve they are $3. The easiest way to pay is through Zelle, some people send a check, some people send an Amazon gift card for the full amount. Both Zelle and Amazon use my email address to send it. Let me know what works best for you . Thanks!

His email is rduckwall@hotmail.com

I paid via Amazon Gift Card.

I also asked who needed the schrader valve. His response: If you’re only air pressure source is a tire inflator with an air chuck you need a schrader valve to put the air in.

For the $3 I had him include it on mine.

[Lonestar]

I emailed Russ and this was his response (he gave me permission to quote him):

The reason I use wd40 is because it’s thin enough to go through the cables , it also displaces moisture, and it won’t cause damage to plastic and rubber parts in the underside of your rv. Motor oil is very destructive to rubber and some plastics. Some of the cables I have lubed have taken a long time with pressure on it to get through. Any type of penetrating lube will work, we 40 is readily available and cheap. Motor oil is way too thick to be pushed through. Thanks, Russell DUCKWALL

Then that would rule out PB Blaster as it has petroleum distillates in it. WD40 looks like the solution to use.

[BWSTGDS]

Then that would rule out PB Blaster as it has petroleum distillates in it. WD40 looks like the solution to use.

Yeah, I probably should have used WD40. I had to wipe up some drips from the valves off the reflectix/insulation. It sure does work though.



This kitchen holding tank valve was a bit damaged from my forceful closing push. When removed, the cable moves fine, but the valve is stuck open. messing with it, it will close, but hangs up again in the open position. Have a Bristol one ordered from ebay now.



The valve had not been opened more than a little in a long time. Some serious nastiness came out very slowly when I removed the valve . Looking forward to getting this back together.