Combine Gray Tanks?

[Dan Charna]

Has anyone connected the 2 gray tanks and how did you do that in a 22 RBE?

(Moved here by Moderator Howard)

[Tom in PGH]

I’m not familiar with the plumbing on the 22 RBE. We have two gray tanks on our 303 RLS. It is plumbed so that both drain through the same pipe, as does the black tank. I put a Valtera gate valve on the end of the drain pipe (several reasons, there are several threads on those topics). With it closed, I can open both gray tank valves, and the level balances between the two. I never open the black, except when the grays are closed up tight.

I don’t know if your 22 RBE has a similar plumbing set-up, but if so, you might try this method. Don’t just pull the valves with only the end cap on, or when you take it off you’ll have a pipe full of liquid. The Valtera valve holds it back so that you can remove the cap safely.

[Schiefswret]

I’m not familiar with the plumbing on the 22 RBE. We have two gray tanks on our 303 RLS. It is plumbed so that both drain through the same pipe, as does the black tank. I put a Valera gate valve on the end of the drain pipe (several reasons, there are several threads on those topics). With it closed, I can open both gray tank valves, and the level balances between the two. I never open the black, except when the grays are closed up tight.

I don’t know if your 22 RBE has a similar plumbing set-up, but if so, you might try this method. Don’t just pull the valves with only the end cap on, or when you take it off you’ll have a pipe full of liquid. The Valera valve holds it back so that you can remove the cap safely.

hey Tom, I’m open to learning something new. Why doesn’t the OEM valve (when closed of course) hold any tank contents back so that you can remove the cap safely? Tks.

[Cate&Rob]

hey Tom, I’m open to learning something new. Why doesn’t the OEM valve (when closed of course) hold any tank contents back so that you can remove the cap safely? Tks.

Even a very small leak past the OEM gate valve will fill the pipe to the cap as you travel. There have been several discussions on this forum about the wisdom of adding a twist on gate valve at the cap location to avoid an unpleasant surprise when removing the cap.

Rob

[Schiefswret]

Even a very small leak past the OEM gate valve will fill the pipe to the cap as you travel. There have been several discussions on this forum about the wisdom of adding a twist on gate valve at the cap location to avoid an unpleasant surprise when removing the cap.

Rob

Gotcha Rob. If I’m understanding this correctly, in the event that the twist on gate valve experiences the same fault as the OEM did, it seems that you are right back where you started, so I guess it becomes a double safety, which of course, there is nothing wrong with that.

[Cate&Rob]

Gotcha Rob. If I’m understanding this correctly, in the event that the twist on gate valve experiences the same fault as the OEM did, it seems that you are right back where you started, so I guess it becomes a double safety, which of course, there is nothing wrong with that.

If the twist on gate valve were to leak, it would only fill the volume between this gate and the cap . . . a few ounces at best. Nothing like the volume coming at you if the entire drain pipe system is full when you remove the cap.

Rob

[Schiefswret]

If the twist on gate valve were to leak, it would only fill the volume between this gate and the cap . . . a few ounces at best. Nothing like the volume coming at you if the entire drain pipe system is full when you remove the cap.

Rob

👍🏻👍🏻 Makes sense.

[Tom in PGH]

hey Tom, I’m open to learning something new. Why doesn’t the OEM valve (when closed of course) hold any tank contents back so that you can remove the cap safely? Tks.

Actually, I’m not saying that it won’t, although, as Rob said, sometimes that is the case. You just don’t want to use the “tank leveling trick” and open the valves if the only other thing you have on the pipe is the end cap. That’s where you’re guaranteed to have an issue.