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2250RK Small Toilet connection leak question

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post

    Hi Dave,

    This is the essence of the problem . . . a Pex fitting is too small a diameter and has incorrectly shaped ridges to permanently secure a 1/2" ID braided hose. This connection will seal for a while, but the hose will deform to the fitting shape and squeeze out from under the clamp until a drip leak (like you have experienced) is created. Another thing to watch out for is disturbing one end of a soft hose section will inevitably wiggle the other end on its Pex fitting and can cause a drip leak there. This is what happened to me and got me on to this quest to remove all the soft hose from my trailer. For a permanent connection, the hose/pipe should be matched to the fitting and clamp used.

    Important Note: This is my personal experience and my opinion. Grand Design and their RVIA requirements do not agree with this perspective.

    Just to add to this discussion, if you are taking this apart anyway, why not add a valve so that you can shut off water to just the toilet in case of a future leak or malfunction. This would also be an ideal time to replace the soft hose with Pex pipe back to where the soft hose line to the toilet connects to the Pex main line. Then, you can stop worrying about the inevitable future soft hose leaks.

    Soft hose also has other problems waiting to happen. See third picture (soft hose connection to water heater on my Reflection). Pex pipe will never do this.

    Rob

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    Thanks Rob. I'm not currently able to tackle a total swap to Pex project and even changing out only the line that we are discussing is beyond the scope of my DIY skills and confidence level, so......

    understanding that the Pex fitting is too small based on your previous input......is why I suggested/asked in my recent post above if removing and replacing the current Pex and replacing it with the 1/2 in ID X 1/2 in FIP brass adapter that you referenced originally and simply plugging my hose back in using a SS worm gear hose clamp might work?

    It would seem (SEEM) to me by using logic only (i know, i know ) that by removing the guilty (the black plastic Pex adapter in my pic) party out of the equation, and removing the current Pex clamp, then inserting the aforementioned adapter and using a worm gear clamp hose that this would remove the Pex issue out of the equation and SEEM to be an at-least temporary solution until I can get my local RVIA certified guy over to my house (he is super busy) to make a more appropriate repair.

    I realize that the full blown correct solution is sort of like Brain Surgery, if you've done it a five thousand times it's "easy", but my DIY skills are not too much better than entry-level. Your thoughts on my idea of just taking the Pex part of the equation out of the picture? Btw: I hope you know how much I appreciate your time as there are probably many other RV's out there who have bigger fish to fry and would be happy to get your experience and suggestions also. thanks again, Dave
    Dave and Sue
    2020 GD 2250RK
    2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
    Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
    GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
    SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Country Campers View Post
      You would need to cut the "ears" off of the pex clamp , they are kind of hard to cut. If you have enough extra hose length then I would just cut the hose and old fitting off. You would want to cut the hose any ways as to get a "fresh" end to clamp. A worm gear clamp would work fine with the new hose barb fitting. This will fix one end of the soft hose but the other end may become a problem down the road. There is plenty of soft hose that you should be keeping an eye on. You can cut the clamp with a dremel tool or diagonals , I think Rob has use end nippers with good luck.

      Brian
      Thank you Brian. I figured that now would be a good time to invest in the PEX install and PEX removal tools so I did.
      Dave and Sue
      2020 GD 2250RK
      2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
      Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
      GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
      SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸

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      • #18
        Schiefswret Dave, It's not a hard project, just tedious. I found that I could use my clamp tool to crush the sides of the clamps and twist to get them to release.
        Jerry and Kelly Powell, with Halo, Nash, Reid, Cleo, and the new baby kitty Rosie..
        Pilot (Zebulon), NC
        2020 Solitude 390RK-R

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        • #19
          👍🏻 TY for the tip.
          Dave and Sue
          2020 GD 2250RK
          2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
          Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
          GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
          SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸

          Comment


          • #20
            Schiefswret Don't let the PEX clamps intimidate you. With the right crimpers the job is easier than you might think. If you are confident in using worm clamps, then the compression clamps should not be an issue.
            Joseph
            Tow
            Vehicle: 2018 GMC K2500 Denali Diesel
            Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
            South of Houston Texas

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            • #21
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              Correct, it wasn’t that big of a deal.
              Dave and Sue
              2020 GD 2250RK
              2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
              Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
              GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
              SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸

              Comment


              • #22
                My apologies to all in that two issues got unintentionally mixed together, the toilet fix and the hot side to my bathroom sink fix. So if the pics and some of the discussion don’t seem to make sense, that is why. The good news is that thanks to everyone’s input the most recent issue, the bathroom sink, is complete and so far working fine. Again; much thanks to all who contributed. Travel safely. 🚌
                Dave and Sue
                2020 GD 2250RK
                2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
                Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
                GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
                SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸

                Comment


                • #23
                  We have a 2022 Imagine MLE - we are experiencing a leak, which I first thought was coming from this very location- (which is why I'm posting this here) - when we flush the toilet, everything is fine, however,, when we "fill the toilet", water comes from what looks like a breather hole in the top of the plastic thing that goes in to the toilet. It is the plastic piece at the left of Dave and Sue's photo. It seems to "leak", if one presses the lever enough to get some air in to the water flow, if you back off the lever just slightly, it doesn't seem to leak. I emailed the dealer, and characteristically have not heard back from them. We put a bowl behind the toilet,, it catches the water- can that "thing" be replaced? Is there some toilet diagram so I have an idea of what it is even called? Hard to seach the forum when one doesn't know the name. LOL
                  Attached Files

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                  • #24
                    SnelCal
                    The part in your picture is the “vacuum break”. It is not unusual for this to leak as you describe if a small bit of construction debris gets into it. I am guessing that this is a Thetford toilet? If so, find the replacement part here. https://www.thetford.com/parts/rv-toilets/ Usually available at an RV parts store or on Amazon.

                    Rob
                    Cate & Rob
                    (with Border Collies Molly & Angel)
                    2015 Reflection 303RLS
                    2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                    Bayham, Ontario, Canada

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                    • #25
                      I couldn't find a name on the toilet. I'm going to go look again. It seems to have "stopped." - but, I'm not going to assume that is anything but luck. I'll get my handy mirror and flash light, cram myself into the tiny space and find make and model. Thanks for your help.

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                      • #26
                        SnelCal , the label on the toilet is most likely on the back of the toilet facing the wall. I was able to use my phone to get a photo of it while lying on floor with my legs in the hallway and my body curled around the bowl.
                        John
                        2018 Momentum 395M
                        2018 Ram 3500 Dually
                        Every day is a Saturday, but with no lawn to mow.

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                        • #27
                          SnelCal The toilet pulls from the floor pretty easily. I have pulled mine a few times to clean or replace the gasket between the top and bottom (Thetford). There is no valve on the water supply from the factory so you need to turn off the water and relieve the pipes, take this opportunity to add a valve for future service. Two bolts on the bottom I think and the whole thing lifts off. I usually put a garbage bad down outside and set it on that. I find it much easier to work on vs cramming in on the floor behind it.
                          Neil Citro
                          2018 Reflection 28bh
                          2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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                          • #28
                            SnelCal x2 on Neil’s recommendation. Two flange bolts and one hand fastened water connection to remove the toilet. The toilet is much lighter than a residential model. Remove the whole thing for even basic maintenance.

                            Rob
                            Cate & Rob
                            (with Border Collies Molly & Angel)
                            2015 Reflection 303RLS
                            2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                            Bayham, Ontario, Canada

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