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2250RK Small Toilet connection leak question

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  • Cate&Rob
    replied
    SnelCal x2 on Neil’s recommendation. Two flange bolts and one hand fastened water connection to remove the toilet. The toilet is much lighter than a residential model. Remove the whole thing for even basic maintenance.

    Rob

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  • ncitro
    replied
    SnelCal The toilet pulls from the floor pretty easily. I have pulled mine a few times to clean or replace the gasket between the top and bottom (Thetford). There is no valve on the water supply from the factory so you need to turn off the water and relieve the pipes, take this opportunity to add a valve for future service. Two bolts on the bottom I think and the whole thing lifts off. I usually put a garbage bad down outside and set it on that. I find it much easier to work on vs cramming in on the floor behind it.

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  • JBill9694
    replied
    SnelCal , the label on the toilet is most likely on the back of the toilet facing the wall. I was able to use my phone to get a photo of it while lying on floor with my legs in the hallway and my body curled around the bowl.

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  • SnelCal
    replied
    I couldn't find a name on the toilet. I'm going to go look again. It seems to have "stopped." - but, I'm not going to assume that is anything but luck. I'll get my handy mirror and flash light, cram myself into the tiny space and find make and model. Thanks for your help.

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  • Cate&Rob
    replied
    SnelCal
    The part in your picture is the “vacuum break”. It is not unusual for this to leak as you describe if a small bit of construction debris gets into it. I am guessing that this is a Thetford toilet? If so, find the replacement part here. https://www.thetford.com/parts/rv-toilets/ Usually available at an RV parts store or on Amazon.

    Rob

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  • SnelCal
    replied
    We have a 2022 Imagine MLE - we are experiencing a leak, which I first thought was coming from this very location- (which is why I'm posting this here) - when we flush the toilet, everything is fine, however,, when we "fill the toilet", water comes from what looks like a breather hole in the top of the plastic thing that goes in to the toilet. It is the plastic piece at the left of Dave and Sue's photo. It seems to "leak", if one presses the lever enough to get some air in to the water flow, if you back off the lever just slightly, it doesn't seem to leak. I emailed the dealer, and characteristically have not heard back from them. We put a bowl behind the toilet,, it catches the water- can that "thing" be replaced? Is there some toilet diagram so I have an idea of what it is even called? Hard to seach the forum when one doesn't know the name. LOL
    Attached Files

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  • Schiefswret
    replied
    My apologies to all in that two issues got unintentionally mixed together, the toilet fix and the hot side to my bathroom sink fix. So if the pics and some of the discussion don’t seem to make sense, that is why. The good news is that thanks to everyone’s input the most recent issue, the bathroom sink, is complete and so far working fine. Again; much thanks to all who contributed. Travel safely. 🚌

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  • Schiefswret
    replied
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    Correct, it wasn’t that big of a deal.

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  • Jlawles2
    replied
    Schiefswret Don't let the PEX clamps intimidate you. With the right crimpers the job is easier than you might think. If you are confident in using worm clamps, then the compression clamps should not be an issue.

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  • Schiefswret
    replied
    👍🏻 TY for the tip.

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  • ThePowells
    replied
    Schiefswret Dave, It's not a hard project, just tedious. I found that I could use my clamp tool to crush the sides of the clamps and twist to get them to release.

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  • Schiefswret
    replied
    Originally posted by Country Campers View Post
    You would need to cut the "ears" off of the pex clamp , they are kind of hard to cut. If you have enough extra hose length then I would just cut the hose and old fitting off. You would want to cut the hose any ways as to get a "fresh" end to clamp. A worm gear clamp would work fine with the new hose barb fitting. This will fix one end of the soft hose but the other end may become a problem down the road. There is plenty of soft hose that you should be keeping an eye on. You can cut the clamp with a dremel tool or diagonals , I think Rob has use end nippers with good luck.

    Brian
    Thank you Brian. I figured that now would be a good time to invest in the PEX install and PEX removal tools so I did.

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  • Schiefswret
    replied
    Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post

    Hi Dave,

    This is the essence of the problem . . . a Pex fitting is too small a diameter and has incorrectly shaped ridges to permanently secure a 1/2" ID braided hose. This connection will seal for a while, but the hose will deform to the fitting shape and squeeze out from under the clamp until a drip leak (like you have experienced) is created. Another thing to watch out for is disturbing one end of a soft hose section will inevitably wiggle the other end on its Pex fitting and can cause a drip leak there. This is what happened to me and got me on to this quest to remove all the soft hose from my trailer. For a permanent connection, the hose/pipe should be matched to the fitting and clamp used.

    Important Note: This is my personal experience and my opinion. Grand Design and their RVIA requirements do not agree with this perspective.

    Just to add to this discussion, if you are taking this apart anyway, why not add a valve so that you can shut off water to just the toilet in case of a future leak or malfunction. This would also be an ideal time to replace the soft hose with Pex pipe back to where the soft hose line to the toilet connects to the Pex main line. Then, you can stop worrying about the inevitable future soft hose leaks.

    Soft hose also has other problems waiting to happen. See third picture (soft hose connection to water heater on my Reflection). Pex pipe will never do this.

    Rob

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    Thanks Rob. I'm not currently able to tackle a total swap to Pex project and even changing out only the line that we are discussing is beyond the scope of my DIY skills and confidence level, so......

    understanding that the Pex fitting is too small based on your previous input......is why I suggested/asked in my recent post above if removing and replacing the current Pex and replacing it with the 1/2 in ID X 1/2 in FIP brass adapter that you referenced originally and simply plugging my hose back in using a SS worm gear hose clamp might work?

    It would seem (SEEM) to me by using logic only (i know, i know ) that by removing the guilty (the black plastic Pex adapter in my pic) party out of the equation, and removing the current Pex clamp, then inserting the aforementioned adapter and using a worm gear clamp hose that this would remove the Pex issue out of the equation and SEEM to be an at-least temporary solution until I can get my local RVIA certified guy over to my house (he is super busy) to make a more appropriate repair.

    I realize that the full blown correct solution is sort of like Brain Surgery, if you've done it a five thousand times it's "easy", but my DIY skills are not too much better than entry-level. Your thoughts on my idea of just taking the Pex part of the equation out of the picture? Btw: I hope you know how much I appreciate your time as there are probably many other RV's out there who have bigger fish to fry and would be happy to get your experience and suggestions also. thanks again, Dave

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  • Cate&Rob
    replied
    Originally posted by Schiefswret View Post
    Replacing my current PEX (black plastic in my pic) adapter with the 1/2 in ID X 1/2 in FIP brass adapter mentioned in your response (purchased at HD) and simply plug my hose back in using a SS worm gear hose clamp? Again, much appreciate your help!
    Hi Dave,

    This is the essence of the problem . . . a Pex fitting is too small a diameter and has incorrectly shaped ridges to permanently secure a 1/2" ID braided hose. This connection will seal for a while, but the hose will deform to the fitting shape and squeeze out from under the clamp until a drip leak (like you have experienced) is created. Another thing to watch out for is disturbing one end of a soft hose section will inevitably wiggle the other end on its Pex fitting and can cause a drip leak there. This is what happened to me and got me on to this quest to remove all the soft hose from my trailer. For a permanent connection, the hose/pipe should be matched to the fitting and clamp used.

    Important Note: This is my personal experience and my opinion. Grand Design and their RVIA requirements do not agree with this perspective.

    Just to add to this discussion, if you are taking this apart anyway, why not add a valve so that you can shut off water to just the toilet in case of a future leak or malfunction. This would also be an ideal time to replace the soft hose with Pex pipe back to where the soft hose line to the toilet connects to the Pex main line. Then, you can stop worrying about the inevitable future soft hose leaks.

    Soft hose also has other problems waiting to happen. See third picture (soft hose connection to water heater on my Reflection). Pex pipe will never do this.

    Rob

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  • Schiefswret
    replied
    Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    Schiefswret
    Hi Dave,

    The black plastic female fitting is a Pex part that seals to the end of the white plastic male part with a "cone washer". The white part will be straight threads . . . not tapered pipe threads, so sealing to the threads with a double female pipe thread coupling will no work. If you really want to keep the soft hose, you may need to make up an adapter to get from your black plastic Pex fitting (or a replacement brass one) to a proper hose barb fitting. The second picture (with the red Pex pipe) shows how to make this adapter to a hose barb, with parts from Home Depot or similar.

    Rob

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    Hello again Rob. Wanted to run this by you as I think that I'm over-thinking this whole thing. I took the info you and others gave me to HD and proceeded to get myself completely confused which is not always hard to do. So, Referencing the info and pics you sent in #10; do you see any problem with the following:

    Replacing my current PEX (black plastic in my pic) adapter with the 1/2 in ID X 1/2 in FIP brass adapter mentioned in your response (purchased at HD) and simply plug my hose back in using a SS worm gear hose clamp? Again, much appreciate your help!

    Leave a comment:

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