Questionable looking braided soft hose

[bertschb]

While crawling around in the basement today to clean up the wiring I decided to glance at my plumbing. Bad mistake. The hose to the water heater looks swollen. I already replaced the hot water hose with PEX.

I think I know the answer but would you replace this with PEX? It's not currently leaking. Bonus question - can I reuse that plastic fitting after
carefully removing the soft hose?



Here are the two lines from the water filter:




These don't look too bad. I already had some spare PEX fittings and pipe but after reading @Cate&Rob plumbing parts list, I ordered a few additional items just in case I wake up to leak alarm.

[Cate&Rob]

bertschb
Hi Brian

I think that you already know the answer to your question . The swollen hose in the first picture looks like it is well on its way to failure. You could certainly reuse the fitting, but these fittings are relatively easy to find in brass at any Home Depot or similar. If I recall correctly . . . didn't you run at higher than normal water pressure fro a while? This could be the reason for the swollen hose. Even though this fitting is on the inlet to the water heater, that fitting and hose are probably sitting at a higher temperature than the rest of the cold water system due to the temperature migration from the water in the heater when there is no flow.

Rob

[bertschb]

bertschb. . . didn't you run at higher than normal water pressure fro a while? This could be the reason for the swollen hose.

Hi Rob

Yes, we had 90psi for several months before I figured out why my water heater pressure relief valve was "leaking". I learned my lesson. What's weird is the only hose that looks really bad is the one to the water heater. Luckily that is the easiest to replace. Is that fitting at the water heater the same 1/2" PEX to 1/2" female threaded like the ones on the Nautilus panel? Sealed with a rubber gasket? I'm picking up half a dozen of those tomorrow.

The soft hoses to/from the OEM built-in water filter and Nautilus panel are the ones that look a little daunting. Not quite sure how to tackle those.

[Cate&Rob]

bertschb
Hi Brian,

I suspect that the hose on the inlet fitting to the water heater is warmer than other locations. It would be interesting to check this (by hand or with an infrared gun) after a period of no water flow (which would cool this hose with water flow into the water heater). The fitting looks to be a standard 1/2" Pex to 1/2" female with the cone washer inside. Pictured one is straight and the one in question is an elbow. Both are available in brass at most plumbing stores.

Rob

[Canyonlight]

Brian bertschb and Rob Cate&Rob - my apologies at the outset for not staying on point (very first time ever ) but Rob what do you know or can find out from GDRV if not aware, about the sticker that states 100% TESTED in Brian's 2nd picture ?

I trust it has something to do with the complete or partial testing of water the panel (or maybe lines attached for leaks or ?) and if so what testing was done and how was it done by whom ?

Brian - by the way - has your water heater leaking/dripping situation been resolved ?

Thanks, guys !

Dan

[bertschb]

Brian - by the way - has your water heater leaking/dripping situation been resolved ?

Yes, it has been resolved! I checked pressure at the post and it was 90psi which I've never seen before anywhere. We stay at a nice park here during the winter and I made the poor assumption that water pressure would be regulated properly. Anyway, I simply added the pressure regulator that I already had but wasn't using. After doing that, the pressure relief valve on the water heater stopped dripping. The bad part is showers s*ck now.

[Canyonlight]

Thanks, Brian - I recall the high pressure and you installing and setting the regulator pressure in that 50s range. But I thought the WH was still dripping after you installed the regulator. There was then conversation about the air pocket on top that S/B there was maybe no longer there due to the high pressure and that may be the issue.

I will have to find the thread on this and refresh my brain. No need to reinvent the wheel here again.

Thanks, Brian

Dan

[bertschb]

But I thought the WH was still dripping after you installed the regulator. There was then conversation about the air pocket on top that S/B there was maybe no longer there due to the high pressure and that may be the issue.

The first thing I did to try to resolve the leaking pressure relief valve was replace it. The new one then started leaking. That's when I tested the water pressure and my eyes bugged out when I saw 90psi. I grabbed my water pressure regulator and installed it real fast after that revelation. No leaks from the pressure relief valve since then. I am getting a leak from the low water drain on the hot side now. I've cycled that valve several times thinking there is some debris in there. No dice. I'll worry about that later. For now I need to tackle replacing more of the soft hose. I'm going to do that today. Hopefully I won't introduce any leaks by messing around with the Nautilus panel. All those plastic fittings make me nervous.

[Country Campers]

Canyonlight

Dan

The 100% tested sticker is from the panel manufacture. I would guess this means that the valves and such are in good order for final assembly by the rv manufacture.

Brian

[Canyonlight]

Canyonlight

Dan

The 100% tested sticker is from the panel manufacture. I would guess this means that the valves and such are in good order for final assembly by the rv manufacture.

Brian

Thanks, Brian - that was kinda my guess too. However, I would be interested in learning the real factual story if this ever comes up for you guys. No biggie....we all have bigger fish to fry.

Dan

[bertschb]

Cleaned up some soft hose today including the line to the water heater. This isn't all of it but I'm making progress.

BTW, if I remove a PEX clamp from a PEX hose, can I put another one on the PEX hose in the same location or do I need to replace the PEX hose?

[Calbar]

bertschb Not an expert by any means but I would expect that you would have to use a new piece of pex or at least trim it back so that a new portiion of the pex is being crimped.

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

bertschb

You should cut the Pex pipe back at least the width of the clamp, if possible. There is some deformation of the pipe under the clamp. If this is not possible, the connection will most likely still seal.

Rob