Emergency Plumbing Kit

[Tom_378MBS]

These forums are an awesome source of information and help. People (myself included) come here for help with problems or questions and so far the GD community has been AWESOME!

Based on the posts I have read I have every expectation that my new 378MBS will leak like a sieve when we take possession of it in May or shortly thereafter. That's slight tongue in cheek as I get that for every problem I see here there are many, many more people that have no problems at all.

Nevertheless, it did make me think about an Emergency Plumbing Kit that hopefully (this will be our third trailer, first no leaks in 5 years, second everything leaked first 5 days) I will never need.

What collective wisdom does the group have about what I should have in my toolbox?

I was thinking at a minimum:
1. Couple lengths of PEX tubing 1/2 inch??
2. PEX connectors and crimpers
3. Couple of brass 90 degree elbows
4. Channel lock pliers
5. Teflon tape
6. Spare black flush back flow preventer

I'm thinking there may be a couple more fitting that might be worthwhile to have but not sure which ones.

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

[howson]

These forums are an awesome source of information and help. People (myself included) come here for help with problems or questions and so far the GD community has been AWESOME!

Based on the posts I have read I have every expectation that my new 378MBS will leak like a sieve when we take possession of it in May or shortly thereafter. That's slight tongue in cheek as I get that for every problem I see here there are many, many more people that have no problems at all.

Nevertheless, it did make me think about an Emergency Plumbing Kit that hopefully (this will be our third trailer, first no leaks in 5 years, second everything leaked first 5 days) I will never need.

What collective wisdom does the group have about what I should have in my toolbox?

I was thinking at a minimum:
1. Couple lengths of PEX tubing 1/2 inch??
2. PEX connectors and crimpers
3. Couple of brass 90 degree elbows
4. Channel lock pliers
5. Teflon tape
6. Spare black flush back flow preventer

I'm thinking there may be a couple more fitting that might be worthwhile to have but not sure which ones.

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

Hi Tom,
I laughed when I read your post. Spend any time on forums and you'll expect to see RVs traveling down the road with flat tires with water spraying the souls lucky enough to be traveling in their wake.

The person with posts you want to consult are Cate&Rob . He has documented a number of threads on the subject. Most of them are in the Plumbing channel's Reference Material library. This one in particular you'll want to consult: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ng-tools-parts

Each "channel" here has it's own Reference Material sub-channel where the moderators attempt to cull the "best of the best" for ease of reference.

You do know that once you get this kit together and have it ready to go you won't have any issues, right?

Please post back when you take delivery and let us know how it's going.

Howard

[ThePowells]

You will need a larger assortment of fittings including couplings, Ts, a few plugs and replacements for the connections to the Nautilus panels, water pump, and water heater.

[Tom_378MBS]

Hi Tom,
I laughed when I read your post. Spend any time on forums and you'll expect to see RVs traveling down the road with flat tires with water spraying the souls lucky enough to be traveling in their wake.

The person with posts you want to consult are Cate&Rob . He has documented a number of threads on the subject. Most of them are in the Plumbing channel's Reference Material library. This one in particular you'll want to consult: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ng-tools-parts

Each "channel" here has it's own Reference Material sub-channel where the moderators attempt to cull the "best of the best" for ease of reference.

You do know that once you get this kit together and have it ready to go you won't have any issues, right?

Please post back when you take delivery and let us know how it's going.

Howard

Thanks for the information I'll certainly check it out. If having this stuff on hand means no leaks it'll be well worth it

[ThePowells]

My thought process (if I have one) is that when we go somewhere, there is one of me and a big bunch of others, and I figure that at least 75% of those don't have the tools, materials, and maybe the knowledge to address almost any issue.

[BobinICT]

Any recommendations on a Spare black flush back flow preventer please. I want to just replace mine. Kind of get ahead of the game.

[howson]

Any recommendations on a Spare black flush back flow preventer please. I want to just replace mine. Kind of get ahead of the game.

Cate&Rob -- isn't this a relatively rare failure component?

[Cate&Rob]

Cate&Rob -- isn't this a relatively rare failure component?

There have been reports of vacuum break failures, but this is usually a "new RV occurrence" caused by debris from manufacturing getting stuck in the valve. If it is working, I wouldn't go to the effort of changing it, because you might introduce some contamination from changing it that would cause a problem. A "better quality" replacement is difficult to find. Brass vacuum break valves are available, but these usually do not have the one-way check valve on the output (tank) side. A separate check valve could be added, but this obviously gets more complex. As my Dad used to tell me . . . "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

Rob

[Tom_378MBS]

Two days in first leak found and fixed. Cold water connection to the hot water tank was loose. Quarter turn seemed to have stopped the drip.

[ThePowells]

New one to the list.. A 3/4 X 3/4 brass male pipe fitting for when the plastic water heater check valve with the dimple starts leaking and a 1/2 Pex check valve to replace the same check valve.

[Cate&Rob]

New one to the list.. A 3/4 X 3/4 brass male pipe fitting for when the plastic water heater check valve with the dimple starts leaking and a 1/2 Pex check valve to replace the same check valve.

The only purpose for that problematic check valve on the output of the water heater is to prevent backfilling of the water heater when the panel valve for water heater bypass is switched from heater fill to heater bypass. Typically, the only time you would do this would be part of winterizing with antifreeze. I would be inclined to replace that check valve with an on/off ball valve and only worry about closing it as part of winterizing.

Rob

[Tom_378MBS]

New one to the list.. A 3/4 X 3/4 brass male pipe fitting for when the plastic water heater check valve with the dimple starts leaking and a 1/2 Pex check valve to replace the same check valve.

I'll have to look closer but mine looked like brass already. I'll have to look again.

Is this what you mean?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-...-SCV/203804502
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2459/207176306

Rob, I think my preference would be to have the Nautilus panel work as designed but I can see your point.

But now you've got me thinking I got the wrong spare fittings when you say 3/4 pipe fitting.

I got some of these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1...1212/301541107

Both 90 degree and straight, are they correct?

Thanks,

Tom

[Yoda]

Based on the posts I have read I have every expectation that my new 378MBS will leak like a sieve when we take possession of it in May or shortly thereafter. That's slight tongue in cheek as I get that for every problem I see here there are many, many more people that have no problems at all.

Nevertheless, it did make me think about an Emergency Plumbing Kit that hopefully (this will be our third trailer, first no leaks in 5 years, second everything leaked first 5 days) I will never need.


Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

Good morning Tom. As Howard mentioned Rob is the expert. Most of my issues have been at the back of the Nautilus panel. Like you I found most only needed a turn of the fitting. I have had a couple of compression fittings come apart internaly. Rob has a good list of parts to have in one of his posts. I found that Home Depot carry's most of the replacement parts needed in brass which is where I have gotten my spares. . It's in the plumbing brass section in the blister packs usually found on the end of the isle. I carry about 5 or 6 different fittings, new o-rings, cone washers, good screw clamps (lined on the inside) and a 3' piece of 1/2" rigid and 1/2" braided flexible braided pex with the crimp fittings and crimp pliers. Just enough to hold until I have access to the needed parts. BTW - if your carrying pex with you get temp caps or plugs for the ends at it can get dirty traveling - don't ask how I know.

Now something important to have - get a good adjustable pressure reducer/regulator for you water hose. I have seen some very high pressures (60 to 80+ psi) at some campgrounds. I think GD rigs are rated for 45 psi to 60 psi or something like that.

Hope this helps
Keith

[Tom_378MBS]

Good morning Tom. As Howard mentioned Rob is the expert. Most of my issues have been at the back of the Nautilus panel. Like you I found most only needed a turn of the fitting. I have had a couple of compression fittings come apart internaly. Rob has a good list of parts to have in one of his posts. I found that Home Depot carry's most of the replacement parts needed in brass which is where I have gotten my spares. . It's in the plumbing brass section in the blister packs usually found on the end of the isle. I carry about 5 or 6 different fittings, new o-rings, cone washers, good screw clamps (lined on the inside) and a 3' piece of 1/2" rigid and 1/2" braided flexible braided pex with the crimp fittings and crimp pliers. Just enough to hold until I have access to the needed parts. BTW - if your carrying pex with you get temp caps or plugs for the ends at it can get dirty traveling - don't ask how I know.

Now something important to have - get a good adjustable pressure reducer/regulator for you water hose. I have seen some very high pressures (60 to 80+ psi) at some campgrounds. I think GD rigs are rated for 45 psi to 60 psi or something like that.

Hope this helps
Keith

Thanks Keith,

I've got everything you've mentioned on your list in terms of spares except for the cone washers.. I hadn't thought about plugging the PEX though, sounds like there's a good story there. I'll do that just in case.

An adjustable pressure regulator should be arriving this week to replace the simple one I've been using.

Cheers,

Tom

[Yoda]

Thanks Keith,

I've got everything you've mentioned on your list in terms of spares except for the cone washers.. I hadn't thought about plugging the PEX though, sounds like there's a good story there. I'll do that just in case.

An adjustable pressure regulator should be arriving this week to replace the simple one I've been using.

Cheers,

Tom

It's good when a plan comes together. Finding the cone washers can be hit or miss. That's the one item my GD dealer had, but $$$.
Safe travels
Keith