I might be late to the party but has anyone noticed or seen the inlet side of your water pump (soft Pex line) is collapsed or sucked shut? We have a '20 310GK however I guess other models have the same issue as well. Keep an eye out! I am getting our ready for the season and noticed it last weekend.
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Originally posted by Glamping4two View PostI might be late to the party but has anyone noticed or seen the inlet side of your water pump (soft Pex line) is collapsed or sucked shut? We have a '20 310GK however I guess other models have the same issue as well. Keep an eye out! I am getting our ready for the season and noticed it last weekend.
Rob
Cate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post
This situation has definitely be reported before. If often seems to accompany the winterizing or un-winterizing process when perhaps a combination of valve settings or the introduction of antifreeze creates enough vacuum on the suction side of the pump to cause this. Replacing this soft hose with Pex would definitely solve the collapsed intake problem but would likely transmit a lot more pump vibration into the plumbing system. I use two coils of prefabricated "washing machine" hose (black hoses lower right in the picture obscuring the pump behind them) to isolate vibration and this type of hose has a thicker wall that seems to resist collapsing.
Rob
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Originally posted by Glamping4two View Post
Wow Rob, did you redo the system? Is the bladder tank for the pump no to run as much?
Others have accomplished similar projects. Check out the plumbing section of the master project list at https://gdrvowners.com/modifications...ification-list
RobCate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post
I did rebuild the entire plumbing system to get rid of all the soft hose and add other improvements. The accumulator (bladder) tank is so that the pump runs less often and runs for longer when it does come on. The entire project is described at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...lection-303rls
Others have accomplished similar projects. Check out the plumbing section of the master project list at https://gdrvowners.com/modifications...ification-list
Rob
run less, etc.
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Originally posted by Glamping4two View Post
Rob, what size tank did you install? I’m going to repair the sucked closed soft pex tomorrow. I’d like to install a tank as well. Are you happy? Does your pump
run less, etc.
Rob
Cate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post
I installed a 2 gallon tank. If I could have fitted a larger one, I would have done that. The pump runs less often and for a longer time when it does run. On our boat, I installed two of these tanks . . . I may still look for a location for a second tank on the RV. The one tank works well . . . but, more accumulator tank volume would be better.
Rob
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Glamping4two
The larger the tank (or tanks . . . it doesn't have to be just one), the more water flow you will have before the pump comes on. The trade off is that when the pump does come on, it will run for longer to refill the accumulator tank. The accumulator air pressure should be set a few psi below the pump turn on pressure so that the accumulator tank is almost empty (but not quite) when the pump comes back on. So, if your pump pressure switch is set to turn the pump on at 30 psi, the accumulator air pressure should be set at about 28 psi (with no water pressure in the system).
RobCate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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Originally posted by MidwestCamper View PostCate&Rob Rob,
How are you supporting the accumulator? These models are rated at 150psi working pressure and would match the relief pressure of the T&P on the hot water tank. I would also like to install one of these, but am not sure there is enough space in the Imagine.
Jim
Originally, I had the accumulator free standing on its water connection fitting (as would be normal in a residential application). From the original pictures, someone (on this forum) commented that that didn't look very secure for a relatively heavy tank of water in an RV! I had to agree . So, I built a support frame on the forward (braking) side of the tank with a large hose clamp attachment. This has been secure for many thousands of miles. As I mentioned earlier, the water pump, the accumulator tank, some drain piping and some wiring have been reconfigured so that each piece is easily removable for service access to the furnace (unique to my RV build). In the case of the accumulator, four screws from the support frame to the floor and one hand tightened water connection and it can be removed from the area.
On my boat, I strapped two of these tanks horizontally to the underside of a counter top, in the empty space above a shelf in a vanity cabinet. This was otherwise unused space and this installation also worked well.
Rob
Cate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
Comment
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Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post
Hi Jim,
Originally, I had the accumulator free standing on its water connection fitting (as would be normal in a residential application). From the original pictures, someone (on this forum) commented that that didn't look very secure for a relatively heavy tank of water in an RV! I had to agree . So, I built a support frame on the forward (braking) side of the tank with a large hose clamp attachment. This has been secure for many thousands of miles. As I mentioned earlier, the water pump, the accumulator tank, some drain piping and some wiring have been reconfigured so that each piece is easily removable for service access to the furnace (unique to my RV build). In the case of the accumulator, four screws from the support frame to the floor and one hand tightened water connection and it can be removed from the area.
On my boat, I strapped two of these tanks horizontally to the underside of a counter top, in the empty space above a shelf in a vanity cabinet. This was otherwise unused space and this installation also worked well.
Rob
I see the drop ear elbow where this was a great idea. But I was curious about the additional support where this is also a perfect solution. I'm thinking about the corner under the bed for this unit where the pex could be ran right into the docking station. But I'll need to get back home to take a look.
Jim
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Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
Rob ,
I see the drop ear elbow where this was a great idea. But I was curious about the additional support where this is also a perfect solution. I'm thinking about the corner under the bed for this unit where the pex could be ran right into the docking station. But I'll need to get back home to take a look.
Jim
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Neil Citro
2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab
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Originally posted by ncitro View Post
I did mine similar to Rob. It’s in the same orientation, and I got three large L brackets that are the height of the tank. I put them around the tank, screwed then to the floor and put three of the large 48” zip ties around it (the kind that use the tool to tighten). It’s been great for the last two year’s and 15-20,000 miles.
Mounting this tank vertical is key for winterizing IMO and a shut off valve may also be helpful to isolate it for winterizing.
Jim
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Originally posted by Glamping4two View PostI might be late to the party but has anyone noticed or seen the inlet side of your water pump (soft Pex line) is collapsed or sucked shut? We have a '20 310GK however I guess other models have the same issue as well. Keep an eye out! I am getting our ready for the season and noticed it last weekend.2 Photos
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