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This forum has me spending money again and rightfully so. Lol.
Jim
I would be cautious with this braided hose . . . note the maximum operating temp of 125F. The water heater thermostat temp is 140F. If you are going to the trouble of replacing hose, why not replace with Pex tubing and be done with the problems.
I would be cautious with this braided hose . . . note the maximum operating temp of 125F. The water heater thermostat temp is 140F. If you are going to the trouble of replacing hose, why not replace with Pex tubing and be done with the problems.
Rob
Thanks Rob,
The LDR hose is 200psi@70F and would be used on the pump side only. 125F limit should not be an issue if used on the pump side.
The RecPro hot water hose I posted is mislabeled on their website with the cold water hose specs. The attached video in that link specifies 150psi@180F.
The accumulator work Howard has done is stellar but I believe the underrated hoses need to be addressed where they should meet or exceed the T&P pressure limit.
I'm also good with replacing hose with PEX. Did you do this at the pump and did it amplify the pump noise? I assume you still used a winterization hose which normally would not be in service.
RVIA is like ISO. They write their own standards and govern themselves.
Just because test pressure is 100 psi, does not mean that the burst pressure is 101psi. Typically burst pressures are a lot higher than working and test pressures.
Joseph
Tow Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
South of Houston Texas
RVIA is like ISO. They write their own standards and govern themselves.
Just because test pressure is 100 psi, does not mean that the burst pressure is 101psi. Typically burst pressures are a lot higher than working and test pressures.
Agree. But the auto world we do not have hoses rated below the radiator cap opening pressure. Can't help to think that the lowest bid on hoses was chosen with little thought on the actual relief pressure limit.
I'm also good with replacing hose with PEX. Did you do this at the pump and did it amplify the pump noise? I assume you still used a winterization hose which normally would not be in service.
Jim
Hi Jim,
I replaced all OE soft hose with Pex pipe. (This was part of a much larger rebuild project to clear a path for the future R&R of my furnace which does not have an exterior access panel) For the water pump, I use washing machine hoses to isolate vibration. This seems to work well and this hose has sufficient wall strength to resist collapsing on the intake side of the pump, which some have reported wit the OE hose. (Pump is behind the coils of hose in the centre of the picture)
Winterizing of a Reflection is done through the main water selector valves with antifreeze introduced through the city water connection.
I replaced all OE soft hose with Pex pipe. (This was part of a much larger rebuild project to clear a path for the future R&R of my furnace which does not have an exterior access panel) For the water pump, I use washing machine hoses to isolate vibration. This seems to work well and this hose has sufficient wall strength to resist collapsing on the intake side of the pump, which some have reported wit the OE hose. (Pump is behind the coils of hose in the centre of the picture)
Winterizing of a Reflection is done through the main water selector valves with antifreeze introduced through the city water connection.
Rob
Rob,
Very nice as always. I would like to know what the OEM pump hose is rated for and then could make a decision. I most likely will take the easy route and replace the OEM pump hose if its found to be inadequate with a higher rated hose. I've had no issues with hose collapse on the suction side of the pump. From what I see, my Imagine is all PEX at the hot water tank and behind my docking station. My rig does not have the infamous red hose that would scare the heck out of me and warrant immediate replacement.
RVIA is like ISO. They write their own standards and govern themselves.
Just because test pressure is 100 psi, does not mean that the burst pressure is 101psi. Typically burst pressures are a lot higher than working and test pressures.
The hoopla around the RVIA sticker doesn't mean much. RVIA refers often to following NFPA(National Fluid Power Association), just not very closely.
With a working pressure at 150psi, US made and NSF certified, I'm sold. This will put the plumbing in my Imagine at the relief pressure of the T&P though I will try to verify what's connected to the pump now. It may already be ok.
I'm going to hook up a motorcycle TPMS with a remote display so I can keep an eye on the water pressure. I'll set an alarm if the pressure goes above 80 psi.
The funny (sad) part is most of the regulars here probably thought I was serious. I like gadgets, but I don't think even I would add a TPMS to my accumulator...
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