Furrion Tankless instruction now makes sense

[Jlawles2]

So there is a note above the water heater control that now makes sense after showering in the unit a couple of times. It states "turn on hot water in shower and adjust temperature until desired". At first this seemed a bit odd. But now it has hit me. ONLY use the hot water in the shower, leave the cold completely off. I tried 100F, it needs to be a bit warmer for me. This now makes sense as it forces all the water flow through the HWH to ensure it lights, not to mention when NAVY showering with the flow valve on the head, you do not get that surge of cold water when you first turn it back on. After a few seconds, the water temp will drop a touch, but it does come back up quickly, and its not that full on cold like you get when the cold tap is turned on.

[ckreef]

The problem isn't the shower. The problem is the kitchen sink. Turn on hot water, wait for the tankless unit to heat up, wait for the hot water to finally come out of the kitchen sink. Meanwhile you've watched a few gallons of cold water go down in your gray tank. Once or twice isn't an issue.

Turn on hot water in the kitchen, fifteen minutes later turn on the hot water in the kitchen again. Do that a few more times before bed and you've filled your kitchen grey tank with a wasted 15 or 20 gallons.

No worries I have a solution in mind. Will post more about this in the future.......

[trkester]

The problem isn't the shower. The problem is the kitchen sink. Turn on hot water, wait for the tankless unit to heat up, wait for the hot water to finally come out of the kitchen sink. Meanwhile you've watched a few gallons of cold water go down in your gray tank. Once or twice isn't an issue.

Turn on hot water in the kitchen, fifteen minutes later turn on the hot water in the kitchen again. Do that a few more times before bed and you've filled your kitchen grey tank with a wasted 15 or 20 gallons.

No worries I have a solution in mind. Will post more about this in the future.......

Same problem with my tankless at home but not as big a deal since I'm not constrained by fresh/Grey tanks.

Guessing you'll need a recirculation pump and bridge valves like this: https://fasterhotwater.com/Tankless%...n%20pump.shtml

[ckreef]

Same problem with my tankless at home but not as big a deal since I'm not constrained by fresh/Grey tanks.

Guessing you'll need a recirculation pump and bridge valves like this: https://fasterhotwater.com/Tankless%...n%20pump.shtml

What I'm really considering is adding a small single faucet 120v tank less heater under the kitchen sink. As long as I'm on shore power I'll get almost immediate hot water. Boondocking I'll still have to wait it out.

[TucsonJim]

Just a heads up for anyone with a Furrion tankless water heater. They have no cold weather protection and according to the Furrion manual, they need to be winterized when the outside temperature is expected to be below 39°F. Failure to winterize may cause the heat exchanger to rupture if it freezes. This can cause very expensive repairs and water damage to the RV.

Jim

[Yoda]

Why not save the water in the kitchen sink in a tub until it gets hot, then use if for other things like the toilet when boon docking, etc.
Just a thought

[ckreef]

Just a heads up for anyone with a Furrion tankless water heater. They have no cold weather protection and according to the Furrion manual, they need to be winterized when the outside temperature is expected to be below 39°F. Failure to winterize may cause the heat exchanger to rupture if it freezes. This can cause very expensive repairs and water damage to the RV.

Jim

So basically everyone who bought a GD that ended up with the Furrion thankless water heater no longer has a 4 season camper. If we are really talking 39° then we really have a one season camper. Spring and fall can easily drop below 39°.

I was disappointed when they announced a tankless water heater, more disappointed when it wasn't dual propane and electric. Now I'm even more disappointed to know they took away my 4 season package with a crappy water heater.

GD screwed up and I hope they are listening.

[Lon777]

The problem isn't the shower. The problem is the kitchen sink. Turn on hot water, wait for the tankless unit to heat up, wait for the hot water to finally come out of the kitchen sink. Meanwhile you've watched a few gallons of cold water go down in your gray tank. Once or twice isn't an issue.

Turn on hot water in the kitchen, fifteen minutes later turn on the hot water in the kitchen again. Do that a few more times before bed and you've filled your kitchen grey tank with a wasted 15 or 20 gallons.

No worries I have a solution in mind. Will post more about this in the future.......

Curious if you had a followup posting to your solution you were working on? My thought is I am looking for 12v valve to place in the supply line near the sink and have a return line to the fresh water tank and putting the momentary on switch on the side of the island.

[ThePowells]

Lon777 Welcome to the family and the forum!

I've looked off and on about recirculation systems since we have the rear kitchen, but I imagine the FL models have the same issue with the bathroom sinkk and shower.

[Cate&Rob]

A plumbing system full of cold water is not unique to the tankless water heater. Any system will have to purge the cold water sitting in the hot water line before the heated water reaches the opened faucet. If grey tank space is the major concern, leave a bowl in the sink. Fill this bowl with the initial cold water and dump it outside or down the toilet if black tank space is less of a concern.

A recirculating system returning water to the intake side of the water pump until there is hot water at a remote faucet would certainly be possible but would require some additional valves and plumbing . . . would be an interesting project . . . hmmm . . .

Rob

[Jlawles2]

From what I remember on pumps, if a diaphragm pump were used, it should already have the necessary check valves in it to prevent back flow. Now you would just need to determine how long the pump needs to run and get a momentary on relay with a timer.

Should only take one extra line from the end of the system to the inlet of the tank where it could be Tee'd in. This would be a simple solution. Might also be able to test the HWH to see if it will turn off when the water temp reaches the set point. I know on ours, if there is not enough flow the temp keeps rising to the point the water temp gets at least 15F above the set point.

[Guest]

If folks rarely if ever boondock, a circulating pump would be easy to add. But this will also put an already high demand on the battery for folks that like to rough it in the colder seasons. Requirements are needed so suppliers can meet certain specifications or the appliance will not be installed for production. For instance, why would a tankless HWH even have a cold water valve in the shower if its not needed? Why wouldn't a single valve with a water proof panel be installed in the shower to adjust temperature? The other requirement would be to operate the tankless heater over a wide range of ambient temperatures that would meet the four season label. It seems that suppliers come up with new untested products and RV makers adds them without a list of requirements. Another example are the residential fridges where a battery requirement to be able to operate for a specified period of time should be added. If followed, a lithium system and solar would most likely be needed to accommodate this option, depending on the requirement. This is a systems engineering approach where if followed, will ensure the entire coach will meet the demands and expectations of the customer.

Jim

[Rick R]

I’m considering an aqua view option.
https://aquaviewinc.com/product/skz0...kmiser-bronze/

[Jim-Dot]

I agree with CKREEF above. Grand Design has to come up with a solution to the Furrion WH cold air problem.
Case in point: We left cold Wisconsin (12 deg) just before Christmas with our fully winterized 2021 303RLS. We did have some water in fresh water tank, just in case, as the weather driving that day was predicated to get in the 50s along our way. We stopped for the night in Joplin, MO., turned on the pump to use the fresh water only to discover low pressure coming out of faucet. Went outside to check Nautilus panel only to discover the Furrion WH was leaking.
When we arrived at our destination near Dallas the next day, I contacted GD. They started a case and after back and forth communication with GD to their supplier, and me, GD stated the warranty claim was denied unless I could prove that it winterized properly. I then wrote back and explained that I have been camping in 5th wheels for over 20 years, winterizing them myself without any problems. I even contacted GD and asked if there was anything else I should do to the "different" water heater other than what, I explained to him, I already did. He replied, "sounds good to me".
When I sent that info to GD, I was informed they were going to honor the warranty and sent me a replacement Furrion Water Heater which I installed.
Now what is GD going to do to make our units a "four season" unit again????

[howson]

Jim-Dot -- see https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...nt-please-read

Closing this thread so there aren't multiple conversations on the same topic.