Sailor_Joe I'm with Dave on the pressure relief valve. Mine was seeping from the relief valve. I opened the low point drain and tried to establish the air space with marginal results, and then I had to change the leaking plastic check valve during which I pulled the anode rod. Mine was a drip that was barely noticable.
Chasing water leaks can but a form of torture for TT owners. You can have a minor leak somewhere and the coroplast is great at misdirection meaning you are chasing ypur tail until you can actually find the source. From what I have seen, that back corner is a very busy place for plumbing with many connections there, and much soft hose. I'm afraid that it may take pulling down the coroplast to find it.
If you do have to get to the back of the water heater, you can pre-empt a future problem. If there is a black plastic check valve on the outlet, replace it with a brass 3/4x3/4 fitting and install an inline 1/2 Pex check valve. This is just one of those things I don't understand being in a RV built by a company that puts such a high price on quality.
Chasing water leaks can but a form of torture for TT owners. You can have a minor leak somewhere and the coroplast is great at misdirection meaning you are chasing ypur tail until you can actually find the source. From what I have seen, that back corner is a very busy place for plumbing with many connections there, and much soft hose. I'm afraid that it may take pulling down the coroplast to find it.
If you do have to get to the back of the water heater, you can pre-empt a future problem. If there is a black plastic check valve on the outlet, replace it with a brass 3/4x3/4 fitting and install an inline 1/2 Pex check valve. This is just one of those things I don't understand being in a RV built by a company that puts such a high price on quality.
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