New RV, Water Heater not working

[papa_gecko]

HI folks, hoping to get that one pice of wisdom that helps us resolve this issue.

This is for a new 2021 Imagine with the new electronic command center and control module.

When we first tested the water heater, electric would not work, but the propane did. We left it on electric for more than 4 hours and the water was ice cold. We switched to propane and it worked perfectly.

The following weekend, we went on the maiden voyage for a second test of everything, and we could not get the electric or propane to work on the water heater.

Our site had 30 amp service and city water. All the other appliances worked, electric and propane. There is propane flowing to the outdoor kitchen and there is a single straight propane line to the heater from there. No valves.

I opened the purge valve on the water heater and water flowed out. I checked the bypass valves, but given the water flow from the heater, this seemed unnecessary.

The DSI light on the command center is lighting up after the propane fails to light on the heater.

There is no flow of propane we can detect and no spark attempts at all.

I tried a new control board on the heater and same results.

We have an appointment booked at dealer for service, but this is a couple weeks away and I would rather resolve this myself if it is not a replacement of expensive parts.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. thank you...

[Cate&Rob]

papa_gecko

Welcome to our owners technical forum. When you have a chance, have a look at our welcome post. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members . This will help you set up your signature and navigate the forum.

This may sound rather basic . . . but, is the water heater plugged in? On new deliveries, the water heater is often unplugged from the 120V outlet to make sure that it doesn't accidentally get turned on with an empty tank. This doesn't explain the problems on propane . . . but, one step at a time .

Rob

[ncitro]

HI folks, hoping to get that one pice of wisdom that helps us resolve this issue.

This is for a new 2021 Imagine with the new electronic command center and control module.

When we first tested the water heater, electric would not work, but the propane did. We left it on electric for more than 4 hours and the water was ice cold. We switched to propane and it worked perfectly.

The following weekend, we went on the maiden voyage for a second test of everything, and we could not get the electric or propane to work on the water heater.

Our site had 30 amp service and city water. All the other appliances worked, electric and propane. There is propane flowing to the outdoor kitchen and there is a single straight propane line to the heater from there. No valves.

I opened the purge valve on the water heater and water flowed out. I checked the bypass valves, but given the water flow from the heater, this seemed unnecessary.

The DSI light on the command center is lighting up after the propane fails to light on the heater.

There is no flow of propane we can detect and no spark attempts at all.

I tried a new control board on the heater and same results.

We have an appointment booked at dealer for service, but this is a couple weeks away and I would rather resolve this myself if it is not a replacement of expensive parts.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. thank you...

Rob is right to check if it’s plugged in. I’d be looking at the temperature sensors since they’re usually common to both the propane and gas. I realize it has never worked on electric but I’d check them out. Let us know what model of water heater you have and we’ll see if we can help further. I’ve got an Atwood and have already rebuilt most of the parts in it.

[pengle]

HI folks, hoping to get that one pice of wisdom that helps us resolve this issue.

This is for a new 2021 Imagine with the new electronic command center and control module.

When we first tested the water heater, electric would not work, but the propane did. We left it on electric for more than 4 hours and the water was ice cold. We switched to propane and it worked perfectly.

The following weekend, we went on the maiden voyage for a second test of everything, and we could not get the electric or propane to work on the water heater.

Our site had 30 amp service and city water. All the other appliances worked, electric and propane. There is propane flowing to the outdoor kitchen and there is a single straight propane line to the heater from there. No valves.

I opened the purge valve on the water heater and water flowed out. I checked the bypass valves, but given the water flow from the heater, this seemed unnecessary.

The DSI light on the command center is lighting up after the propane fails to light on the heater.

There is no flow of propane we can detect and no spark attempts at all.

I tried a new control board on the heater and same results.

We have an appointment booked at dealer for service, but this is a couple weeks away and I would rather resolve this myself if it is not a replacement of expensive parts.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. thank you...

You are dealing with TWO systems when talking about electric and propane on the Suburban water heaters.. One is 110v and the other uses the 12vdc circuit. The only thing I can think of that might have happened is that BOTH of the high limit thermostats could have opened if the water got overheated. You've got a thermostat for electric and one for propane. Each of those has a limit AND an operating thermostat. The limit part is resettable by pushing on the black rubber indentation above the PUSH TO RESET label. I'm attaching a service manual for the Suburban water heaters. A diagnostic flow chart starts on page 16. Suburban Water Heater Service Manual.pdf

[Jlawles2]

papa_gecko Without going through the troubleshooting guide but relying on my memory. The Elect system and propane systems are as stated independent. Elect there may be a tripped breaker, regardless of the light on the panel working, that's a separate 12V control system.

As for the propane not working, I had mine act a bit strange. You may need to look be outside when someone turns it on and listen for the spark plug to start ticking and then the gas valve to click open. Check that the manual valve did not get closed by accident. You may even try taking a small piece of lightweight paper and seeing if yo can determine if the gas jet is releasing gas. Could be that something is plugged by trash that was in the line.

If all of that is good, you may need to pull the burner tube and look for mud dobbers, spider webs, or any type of insect nest in the tube. Any obstructions in the burner tube will cause a no light condition.

[malco1]

You are dealing with TWO systems when talking about electric and propane on the Suburban water heaters.. One is 110v and the other uses the 12vdc circuit. The only thing I can think of that might have happened is that BOTH of the high limit thermostats could have opened if the water got overheated. You've got a thermostat for electric and one for propane. Each of those has a limit AND an operating thermostat. The limit part is resettable by pushing on the black rubber indentation above the PUSH TO RESET label. I'm attaching a service manual for the Suburban water heaters. A diagnostic flow chart starts on page 16. [ATTACH]n56160[/ATTACH]

Also the Suburban has a shutoff switch for the electric coil in the water heater outside box. Make sure it is turned on.