Dsi fault

[BarberArias]

We ran empty on propane today. After filling the propane everything fired up without a problem except for the gas water heater. The electric is still working fine but when I try to use the propane side it doesn't even try to light. Then after a min or two shows a DSI fault on my panel. Ideas?

[kleinisrad]

Hey Barb. So other appliances currently work on LP? If so, there may be some air in the water heater line. If nothing LP is working...check to make sure tank valves are open.

[kleinisrad]

If air is in the line, it may take a few minutes to purge.

[howson]

We ran empty on propane today. After filling the propane everything fired up without a problem except for the gas water heater. The electric is still working fine but when I try to use the propane side it doesn't even try to light. Then after a min or two shows a DSI fault on my panel. Ideas?

A competing brand's forum has an outstanding troubleshooting manual for water heaters. (Giving credit where credit is due.) It has the following info:

To operate in LP mode, turn on the LP rocker switch in your control panel. A small indicator light will illuminate for about 15 seconds to let you know that the ignition sequence is underway. During the 15 seconds, the control board will attempt to purge air from the propane feed line and then will attempt to light the propane 3 times over the next 6 seconds. If it fails, the water heater will lock the LP operation for safety reasons and the light will stay on. To clear the lockout, turn the switch off for 10 seconds and then turn on again to retry. Note that if the water in the tank is already heated, the ignition sequence may not occur until the water cools to less than 100 degrees.

Howard

[Scott'n'Wendy]

After changing a tank/running out of propane I always purge the air with the stove. Light a burner and keep it on for 10 seconds or so.
I hold a lit bbq lighter by the element and keep the gas on until flame on. If you don't hear the gas coming from the element, either your tank valve is closed or the hose was not attached to the tank tight enough.

DSI fault. Why put this wording on the panel? Nobody knows what DSI means until they google it or whatever. Why not put H2O Heater Ignition Fail

[BarberArias]

Update- all other appliances are working on propane with out any problems. Even ran the furnace (not a good idea when its 90 outside). The water heater will ignite, run for 30 sec than go out, and then repeat in 30 sec. After it does this for 5 min or so it stops and the DSI light comes on the panel inside. Why doesn't it want to stay lit?

[RJAPCOK]

Update- all other appliances are working on propane with out any problems. Even ran the furnace (not a good idea when its 90 outside). The water heater will ignite, run for 30 sec than go out, and then repeat in 30 sec. After it does this for 5 min or so it stops and the DSI light comes on the panel inside. Why doesn't it want to stay lit?

If I understand correctly, there is a Thermal Energy Cut Off switch that cuts off the gas if the water gets too hot. If it works correctly, it will be closed when the WH is in operation and it will open if the water gets too hot. If it is faulty, it could be opening prematurely or staying open all the time. It is my understanding that if this switch is open it will set the DSI fault.

I hope this helps.

Bob

[BarberArias]

If it is faulty, it could be opening prematurely or staying open all the time. It is my understanding that if this switch is open it will set the DSI fault.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I'll check it tomorrow and see if it is open

[Jlawles2]

I don't know how the HWH detects flame, but that sounds just like our home furnace when the flame detector rod was dirty and needed cleaning.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Update- all other appliances are working on propane with out any problems. Even ran the furnace (not a good idea when its 90 outside). The water heater will ignite, run for 30 sec than go out, and then repeat in 30 sec. After it does this for 5 min or so it stops and the DSI light comes on the panel inside. Why doesn't it want to stay lit?

The control board will try three times to light before it sets the fault light. If it is lighting at all the ECO switch is likely fine, you are getting gas flow and the ignition works.
Can you verify when it is lit that the flame is a nice blue colour and sounds like normal?
Beside the eco switch on the heater is the water temp switch that is supposed to do the temp regulating. The eco (emergency cut off) is supposed to function if the temp sw fails closed.
It seems to me the spark & sense electrode is giving you the problem. After ignition, the spark electrode remains in the flame and heats up. This sends a feedback to the control module. If no feedback, the control board will cut off the gas after 30sec. (approx)
So if it was me I'd check that the flame is good first. Then if needed, the spark/sense rod condition, wire connection. Seems odd though. You only replaced the propane cylinder. Was the propane empty or did the heater fail first?

[BarberArias]

The control board will try three times to light before it sets the fault light. If it is lighting at all the ECO switch is likely fine, you are getting gas flow and the ignition works.
Can you verify when it is lit that the flame is a nice blue colour and sounds like normal?
Beside the eco switch on the heater is the water temp switch that is supposed to do the temp regulating. The eco (emergency cut off) is supposed to function if the temp sw fails closed.
It seems to me the spark & sense electrode is giving you the problem. After ignition, the spark electrode remains in the flame and heats up. This sends a feedback to the control module. If no feedback, the control board will cut off the gas after 30sec. (approx)
So if it was me I'd check that the flame is good first. Then if needed, the spark/sense rod condition, wire connection. Seems odd though. You only replaced the propane cylinder. Was the propane empty or did the heater fail first?

Finally circling back to this problem and trying to fix.
I have checked the eco switch and thermostat, even replace them since they are cheap.
some times the ignitor will try to light other times it won't. When it is light it has a clean blue fame but it only stays light for 5 sec or so than shuts off.
I have ordered a new control panel and igniter. It has a 61346 panel now but after researching you can't even buy them any more since they were so bad. Replacing it with a 61365 panel.

Crossing my fingers

[bellis]

After changing a tank/running out of propane I always purge the air with the stove. Light a burner and keep it on for 10 seconds or so.
I hold a lit bbq lighter by the element and keep the gas on until flame on. If you don't hear the gas coming from the element, either your tank valve is closed or the hose was not attached to the tank tight enough.

DSI fault. Why put this wording on the panel? Nobody knows what DSI means until they google it or whatever. Why not put H2O Heater Ignition Fail

I do the exact same thing. Not sure if it will extend life....but it prevents a lot of ignition attempts that are doomed to fail. My wife did not do this the other day trying to get some hot water (just were working and visiting camper) and the DSI fault light came on.

Hope you don't have a bad valve (IE not releasing gas) to the heater. It sounds like the sensor is not detecting flame....even though it is lit - so for safety it shuts off the gas. Keep us posted!

[BarberArias]

I have ordered a new control panel and igniter. It has a 61346 panel now but after researching you can't even buy them any more since they were so bad. Replacing it with a 61365 panel.

Crossing my fingers

Just a quick update. I replaced the control board with a 61365 and it fixed the problem. The research I did the 61346 board was crap and you can't even get them any more.