Nautilus P1 Panel Information

[TucsonJim]

Nautilus P1 Panel Repair Manual

The attached link from B&B Molders contains information on repairing the Nautilus P1 panel.

http://www.bandbmolders.com/wp-conte...-P1-Repair.pdf

Edit: Additional manuals available here: http://www.bandbmolders.com/index.php/p1/ (thanks, boyscout !) - howson

Edit: Another resource for manual here:https://www.granddesignrv.com/sites/...Rev%208-16.pdf - Country Campers

Edit: Parts are listed in the manual, but for quicker reference the list is attached separately below (see Nautilus P1 Parts List - B.pdf).

[howson]

Nautilus P1 Schematic

Drawings updated 1 Jul 2020

A couple of notes:
1) The yellow arrows are one-way valves. The "city water" valve is physically inside of the connector for the water hose at the Nautilus Panel. The water pump's is (I think) internal to the unit.
2) The water heater's input and output is "upside down" from how it really works. For diagram purposes it was cleaner doing it the way it is drawn.
3) Only water that is flowing is drawn.
4) If it is not obvious, the white line in the "X" of a lever is a break, or wall, that separates the valve internally. With the exception of the black valve, water flows 90 degrees out of a valve from the source (if at all).
5) I could not have created these without Nukeboyt's foundational work. (Nukeboyt is the name of an individual from a different forum.) How we've drawn the "schematic" is different, but he should get credit for his original work.

[steve&renee]

The Nautilus P1 is made by BandBMolders:

http://www.bandbmolders.com

Got in touch with BandB about replacing the fresh water and black tank flush inlets today. They don't have technical support per se, but the customer service gal took my number and I got a callback from a sales guy who was quite savvy. He knew the design history of the whole Nautilus system. Between him and my visit to their website, here's some info for our site:

1. The BandB website has two PDF docs that are really useful: Nautilus-P1-Repair.pdf and Nautilus-.P1-Installation.pdf. The Repair doc has complete instructions on replacing the fresh water inlet. As to breaking the retaining clip, the sales guy was kind of surprised, but he pointed out that if you are doing a repair, the replacement part they sell includes a new retaining clip.

2. As for replacing the black tank flush inlet, he indicated that when the system was designed, they assumed that inlet would never need replacing? So the fitting is essentially permanently secured. I told him I was having a problem with the nylon threads on the fresh water inlet wearing down because my garden hose connector was metal -- and was anticipating similar problems in the future for the black tank fitting. He suggested I insert a permanent male metal fitting into the inlet and get an adapter for my supply hose. . . Otherwise, dremel tool and alternate fitting. The sales guy did say that in retrospect, the black tank flush inlet should have been designed to be replaced. . .

3. He asked how I was liking the Nautilus P1. For me, the only problem has been the need to flip the cone strainer fitting to depress the check-valve in the fresh water inlet when winterizing and sanitizing. He was aware of the issue. He dropped a nougat that I hadn't heard before. The released instructions for Winterize say to orient the Blue valve horizontal. This opens the valve to the fresh water tank. At design time, their guys didn't think it mattered, so they arbitrarily decided to say Blue valve horizontal. Now they think some systems may have issues with sucking air if the Blue valve is horizontal during Winterize. The sales guy suggested I try orienting the Blue valve vertical during Winterize. He said it *might* help. I'm definitely going to give this a try.

-Steve

Moderator note: Steve's post here was extracted from Replacing the Soft Hose in a 315RLTS: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...9792#post19792

[howson]

In response to a question from ncitro the following configuration was tested and in my 2019 315RLTS it worked!


Howard

[howson]

Note: Link and pic current as of 18 Feb 22.

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Looking for a replacement for the vacuum breaker or any other part of the Nautilus panel? rvlocksandmore.com is bandbmolders retail distributor. Almost all Nautilus components are available, including the vacuum breaker valve: https://www.rvlocksandmore.com/Vacuu...ck-Valve-Black

[Superduty]

.

2. As for replacing the black tank flush inlet, he indicated that when the system was designed, they assumed that inlet would never need replacing? So the fitting is essentially permanently secured. I told him I was having a problem with the nylon threads on the fresh water inlet wearing down because my garden hose connector was metal -- and was anticipating similar problems in the future for the black tank fitting. He suggested I insert a permanent male metal fitting into the inlet and get an adapter for my supply hose. . . Otherwise, dremel tool and alternate fitting. The sales guy did say that in retrospect, the black tank flush inlet should have been designed to be replaced. . .


Moderator note: Steve's post here was extracted from Replacing the Soft Hose in a 315RLTS: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...9792#post19792

Steve
I have heard of the threads wearing on the inlets of the Fresh/black inlets using garden hoses, so I use only plastic adapters on both Inlets. I rather replace the cheap plastic adapters than inlets.

Another Steve

[TedS]

howson there are not four connections, ports, to the red handled valve. it is a three port valve. The outlet of the water heater goes through a check valve then to the a T to the hot water line. Here are clearer diagrams. Credit nukeboyt.

Nautilus P1 Flow Diagrams0.pdf

[howson]

TedS -- Nukeboyt definitely did the heavy lifting and was the first (to my knowledge) that made drawings, thus he was credited in my post (see line #5 in post 2) for his original work.

Unfortunately his diagrams weren't clear to me as I didn't understand all the symbology (at the time). I drew out new diagrams for my own purposes so I could "see" what was going on.

My representations were never meant to be an actual physical layout of the connections, but a conceptual representation of how the panel works. To my knowledge they accurately represent water flow based on panel knob position, though they are definitely not "engineering quality" by any means.

Thanks for posting the Nukeboy drawings. I'm sure it will help someone.

Howard