2020 - 397TH - Toilet Flange

[CaptDan]

I have read a couple threads on here regarding how the toilet flanges are connected to the vertical pipe going to the black tank. I have also contacted GD parts department and asked how my 397 flanges are installed (i.e. glued or not). The answer was "there is not going to be any glue on the pipe since it has to be replaceable". I tried to remove the flange without luck and gave up - worrying that I would damage it (and/or the vertical pipe as well). I ended up using a flange repair kit. However, as my wife is handicapped with balance issues - I would expect she is going to damage the flange again and at some point will have to completely replace the flange. So.... if the flange is supposedly "replaceable" and glue is not used, how should I remove the flange? pull straight out? twist? Does the flange simply slide up against the vertical pipe or does it slide inside of it to some degree?

[Jlawles2]

CaptDan Dan, there is another discussion on how the toilets are plumbed into the black tank. From what Rob posted there is a rubber gasket that goes into the black tank and the pipe just shoves through it. The tank gasket is probably https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-...rts/detail/440

Post 8 Rob has a picture of the gasket: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ank-dimensions

My guess it the rubber has "bonded" to the ABS or sewer matter has bonded to the pipe. If you can twist, try twisting and pulling.

[Cate&Rob]

CaptDan

If you are talking about the floor flange that the toilet bolts to . . . this ABS flange fitting is most definitely glued to the ABS pipe that goes to the tank. In the attached picture, you can see the yellow ABS cement around the pipe inside the flange fitting. Where this pipe inserts into the tank, there is a rubber grommet with no glue. If you need to replace the flange, pull it and the pipe out of the tank below. Fabricate a new assembly to match and insert this back into the grommet, fastening the flange to the floor. A new grommet for the tank would be a good idea. While you have this out, check whether the pipe ends at the grommet as intended or is pushed too far into the tank . . . per the other discussion.

Rob

[CaptDan]

Thanks Joseph/Cate and Rob - was afraid that it is/was glued regardless what GD said. So much for being "replaceable". I suppose now I'll have to crawl in the underbelly and see how it's connected to the black tank. Then remove pipe/flange and replace with a truly "removable" flange that screws into a ABS straight pipe. That's what other non GD rigs seem to have because the RV repair shop Im at doesn't even carry the GD type and will not work on this type (for obvious reasons). Seems like every problem I have with our 397 is "unique" and not easily repairable. At least when we got the refrigerator error folks talk about - I used the magnet and fixed it! Unfortunately my wife is going to eventually knock the toilet over and I will have to deal with the flange again and again. Am going to install a safety rail on a swivel when I can order one but there is nothing i can do on the side of the toilet that in way of the sliding/hidden door.

[Jlawles2]

Dan, the flange is most likely just wood screwed to the floor. The grommet into the tank is a push in fitting and should not be glued. You may be able to move the flange a little with some creative plumbing to give you enough room to install a floor mount railing on the door side.

[Yoda]

CaptDan I am assuming the flange is cracked and needs to be replaced?

If/when you do get it off there may be metal ones available that will fit and be glued up like the GD one. It might take some scrounging, Try plumbing supply stores - they usually sell only to plumbers, but the ones in my town wont turn down a sale either. I know they come in different sizes, so take the original one with you.

On my old trailer the flange and down pipe was glued in, but I was able to use door shims and kept taping and stacking to get it high enough to cut loose. Not sure if that will work for you. The new plastic door shims might work better to wedge it up and have it pull loose.

Trying to help
Keith

On edit. If this is the main bath, you may be able to remove the false wall in the pass through to gain access to the plumbing below the toilet. Just a thought.

[CaptDan]

Thanks all. Was hoping it would be simple. Will have to get in the pass thru and see what it looks like on that end.