Sewage & gray water accumulating in outlet pathway

[Country Campers]

If these "chunks" are of the black tank variety then your black tank valve is not closing properly or like you are suggesting the plumbing pipes have a low spot. The "debris" issue with the cut out hole being left in the tank could have gotten lodged in the pipes as well. Maybe a camera would do the trick.(proctologist comes to mind).

Brian

[Superduty]

All in all, I wish the gate valves were out under the our trailers as they used to be. It does not look as nice, but access to repair / replace / trouble shoot them was so much easier.
It is one of the largest complaint I have with the Reflection, hidden gate valves by cable operation.

[boyscout]

It sure sounds like you have a valve that is not closing all the way.

Except that I can leave the outlet open for hours, with little or a lot in the tanks and the valves closed, and nothing comes out. We had a guy pump us out while we weren't there last week and we returned and used the trailer for several days before I noticed that he had not re-capped the outlet. No sign that anything has leaked out.

But I know that if I put the cap on and move the trailer, I'll have a half-gallon or more waiting at the cap. It's getting trapped in the manifold or somewhere else AFTER the valves, tipping the trailer up and down doesn't release it, but moving the trailer any distance always does.

[boyscout]

If these "chunks" are of the black tank variety then your black tank valve is not closing properly or like you are suggesting the plumbing pipes have a low spot. The "debris" issue with the cut out hole being left in the tank could have gotten lodged in the pipes as well. Maybe a camera would do the trick.(proctologist comes to mind). Brian

Yes, several times there have been chunks of that. Usually just dirty water, but occasionally chunky.

Per previous post I don't think it's the valve on any of the tanks. A piece of debris preventing complete drainage of the post-valve system is a good thought... maybe I'll have to get a camera. However my own bet is on the system not being properly installed so it's low in one area, low in a way that even tipping the trailer way up and way down doesn't clear it.

The dealer has had a shot at this and said nothing wrong and showed me a dry outlet pipe. I drove five miles and it was full. I posted here hoping Grand Design would tell me what's next.

[Superduty]

To update my 5er tanks, heading on vacation. When I hooked up the sewer hose at the campground, no water of any kind came out of the discharge pipe, since I checked this before leaving home. So, my valves are closing correctly.

now to figure out from the valves to the outlet, where is the water being held.

[GDRV-Emily]

It is normal to h ave some residual come out after it has traveled down the road.... While it is unpleasant, and trust me... I have first hand experienced it myself... the best advise I can give you is to utilize the info above and possibly go wit the Valterra valve that goes at the end of your drain and will prevent this from happening! I have one and it is a life saver!

[TucsonJim]

Moderator Note: Moved thread to the plumbing section from the Ask Grand Design section to make the thread more easily found during searches.

Jim

[jdarrelljones]

I have the issue of the valve not closing. 2019 344GK. It is getting worse. The liquid drains out overnight. And after a 1000 mile trip I get solids. With no liquid or digester in the tank it is hard to dump. I will get the aforementioned valve but that is a temporary fix. I normally leave my grey valves open and dump black once a week. But I cannot do this with the black leaking so bad. It will back up into the grey. I have sent GDRV an email requesting help. I am a full timer and need this to work as it is supposed to. Thank you for any help.

[Cate&Rob]

I have the issue of the valve not closing. 2019 344GK. It is getting worse. The liquid drains out overnight. And after a 1000 mile trip I get solids. With no liquid or digester in the tank it is hard to dump. I will get the aforementioned valve but that is a temporary fix. I normally leave my grey valves open and dump black once a week. But I cannot do this with the black leaking so bad. It will back up into the grey. I have sent GDRV an email requesting help. I am a full timer and need this to work as it is supposed to. Thank you for any help.

This is a bit of a different direction for this thread . . . but, I guess we are still on the same subject.

When a gate valve is not closing properly, the next thing to do is to observe the action of the gate valve. This (unfortunately) means dropping the underbelly coroplast or cutting an opening panel in it. Some will prefer one and some the other . . . but one or the other is necessary.

The first step is to compare the action of the suspect gate valve to one that is closing properly. Is the problem valve moving to the all-the-way closed position? If not, can you manually push the valve all the way closed? If so . . . the problem is the cable actuation of the valve. This can be binding at the handle end or routing of the cable.

If you can't manually push the valve further closed to stop the flow, the valve seals or the entire gate valve assembly need to be replaced. The gate valve seal rings are a commonly available replacement part. It is very difficult to extract one gate valve between a fixed tank and a rigid drain manifold. The usually process requires loosening the other gate valve bolts to provide enough movement in the drain manifold to allow extraction of the problem gate valve. (This is why dropping the coroplast completely might be a better choice than cutting a small opening panel)

This can be a big job for many owners to take on, but is a relatively common task for an RV service facility. Something to remember to check after a gate valve is replaced, is the operation of the other gate valves that may have been loosened to get the problem valve out. This loosening (and retightening) can dislodge the seals in one of the other gate valves.

Rob

[Gronk1]

On a 310GK (like mine & Mark's) I think there is a clearance issue with using the Valterra valve. I bought one & when installed there is about 5 to 6 inches from the bottom of the valve & the ground. I think it would get wiped off by a speed bump. Left it in the garage on our last trip (and it worked great). I would probably try it if I had a lot of "stuff" exiting when I pull the cap (I get a cup at most).

[Trahanp]

We just bought a 2020 Reflections 150series 295RLS on Sept long weekend and have had it out every weekend since and we have had issues with having both black and grey water in the drain pipe when we go to dump. This last weekend there was at least a gallon of black water that came out, Luckily I have been standing way off to the side before opening the exterior cap. I called our dealer, Woody’s RV in Edmonton and after being put on hold they came back and the first thing that was said is that even though our trailer is just over a month old a new valve will cost close to $1300 but they would see if it would be warranty first. Needless to say I am going to go with the above valve that was mentioned instead of taking it in to see if it’s warranty.

My previous truck camper hardly leaked a drop or two between dumps!

i am not happy with this solution at all, but after doing a fair bit of research it looks like a lot of the valves on all different makes of trailers leak.

[Jeff Sibley]

I have the issue of the valve not closing. 2019 344GK. It is getting worse. The liquid drains out overnight. And after a 1000 mile trip I get solids. With no liquid or digester in the tank it is hard to dump. I will get the aforementioned valve but that is a temporary fix. I normally leave my grey valves open and dump black once a week. But I cannot do this with the black leaking so bad. It will back up into the grey. I have sent GDRV an email requesting help. I am a full timer and need this to work as it is supposed to. Thank you for any help.

I also have a 2019 344GK with the same problem, documented on youtube, link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzmh_Z-HnKo. I sent the link to GD support and they agreed to replace the back valve under warranty. With COVID-19 having us all on lock-down, I am planning to trying to replace myself after I figure out what to order. Know it is 3" Bristol with a 72" cable. What I am reading is a Valterra TC372 will fit.

? Does anyone know if this is the case?

[Cate&Rob]

I am planning to trying to replace myself after I figure out what to order. Know it is 3" Bristol with a 72" cable. What I am reading is a Valterra TC372 will fit.? Does anyone know if this is the case?

Hi Jeff,

This is a correct assumption. (Confirmed by someone on the "other forum" a while back). The tank and pipe flanges are common parts. Either the Bristol or the Valterra valve will fit. The Valterra is more easily available in the aftermarket. You are going to have to loosen all the gate valves to get enough movement in the pipe manifold to remove the problem valve. This can cause leak problems with the other valves when re-tightening everything. Bin-ther-dun-that.

Rob

[JBill9694]

To be clear we're not experiencing a dribble or a cup, we're getting a half-gallon or more, sometimes with chunks in it. This after closing the valves, tipping the trailer up and down, and waiting until no dripping when the dump hose is removed. The dozen or so people we've talked to about it during our travels - a few in Grand Design trailers - don't have this experience.

Here's a take on the chunks: A pipe transporting solids need to have enough fluid to keep the solids afloat. If solids are settling in the pipe then it is likely that the tank is running out of fluids before the solids are flushed out. This could be the result a leaking valve that is allowing fluids to escape before the tank is drained, or not enough fluid is being added to the tank with the solids.

Superduty method of testing detailed in posting #9 would be good way to check for a leaking valve. If there is a clear connection in the drain line a less extensive and maybe less sure way would be to close the drain valve when the flow is reduced to a trickle and see if the flow stops. If the flow does not stop, 2 to 5 gallons of water can be added to the tank and the drain valve opened in an effort to flush any debris through the valve, repeat as necessary or until the decision is made that more extreme efforts are warranted.

[Kksfish]

boyscout

i have had some luck clearing sticky valves that won’t close completely due to debris in the slot by adding a quart of mineral oil and letting it sit for a couple of weeks.
worth a try anyway