Water Pressure Regulators

[Oortdrako]

I'm making a new list of needs for our upcoming new camper. My old one that went with my sold 5r was a Watts 263A-LF Regulator with stainless oil filled gauge ($249). I'm thinking I could buy 8 of theRenator RV Water Pressure Regulators at AMZN for the price of the Watts. Does anyone know the real difference in these types? Proven flow difference? Reliability? Anything?

[Country Campers]

I think this is the one that I just purchased a few weeks ago, Amazon.com: Renator RV Water Pressure Regulator for RV Camper. Brass Lead-free Adjustable RV Water Pressure Regulator with Gauge. RV Water Regulator for Camper Travel Trailer, Reducer Valve W Filter. M11-0660R. : Automotive

I have used one similar to this for years Amazon.com: Valterra RV Hi-Flow Water Regulator, Lead-Free Brass Hi-Flow Water Regulator for Camper, Trailer, RV Plumbing System, 50-55 psi : Sports & Outdoors and I think that the one I have is only 40 - 45 psi, not sure on that.

I purchased the first one because , well Cate&Rob said that "everyone should have one of those", just kidding. The gauge is nice to see if you are having any plumbing issues. The cheapo Camco one that is similar to the second does the job just fine, I will probably continue to use it and if I have a problem I will use the gauge to help me trouble shoot.

Brian

[Cate&Rob]

A pressure regulator on the city water hose is a curiously useless piece of equipment that everyone thinks they need (in my opinion). If you install a pressure gauge on your RV water system (Tee it into any cold water line or even temporarily put it on the cold water drain) you will see what I mean. The reason that I say this is the check valve on the city water inlet. Once the water passes this check valve, the pressure regulator on the supply line has no affect on system water pressure. With a full water system, turning on the water heater will expand the water causing system pressure to rise well beyond the setting on the pressure regulator. If the air dome in the water heater is correctly established, pressure will peak at about 70 psi. As this air cushion is absorbed into the water, pressure rise in the system will increase. If the pressure relief on the water heater starts dripping, this indicates a system pressure of 140 psi . Several on this forum have (finally ) installed a system pressure gauge and can confirm my observations.

BTW, I used to use a pressure regulator on the city water hose. I don't anymore and this is one less flow restriction in the water supply. I do monitor my system pressure gauge at a new park to understand what their water system is supplying.

Note that this is my personal perspective and nothing more.

Rob

[TedS]

Even without the city water inlet check valve, the hose pressure regulator does not work backwards to protect the trailer system.

[TedS]

My regulators are gathering dust in my tool box.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

The reason that I say this is the check valve on the city water inlet. Once the water passes this check valve, the pressure regulator on the supply line has no affect on system water pressure.

Rob

Maybe you need to school me....

I have used a 40psi reg that looks like the Valterra one Brian posted since someone back in the '90's told me I need it.
Now I thought these operated by dropping the water pressure. Through a bleed or whatever. That is to say they don't allow pressure higher than the regulator rating at the output...ie trailer check valve...regardless of input pressure. Where I often camp in Apple Valley the workcampers there say the city water pressure is 90-110 psi.
What you say about the check valve makes complete sense. But won't the 40psi regulator make sure that the fill pressure from the city line will never exceeds 40psi? If I attached a 100psi supply line directly to the trailer and pressurized the trailer to that 100psi level....my system pressure would likely then increase to what? 130psi?

[Yoda]

I usually ask at check in what thier water pressure is, If it is 50 - 60 psi or below I don't bother (I have 60 at my house). If I am checking in late I just use the regulator to check the pressure. However I have run across a few places with very high pressure (usually in the mountains), like the Palisades CO park that Colorado rally was at a few years back. There was a place on the Oregon coast too. They both had a warning sigh in the office to use a regulator. The pressure at the Palisades park was 90 psi which I verified with my regulator as shown in post #2 (first one). I think the pressure on the coast was 85psi.

One other thing - be sure not to leave your regulator in the trailer over the winter where it can freeze. I have busted a couple that way.

[Cate&Rob]

Scott'n'Wendy

I have never encountered a park with 100 psi water pressure . The problem is usually the other way . . . with maybe 30 psi water pressure. If I saw anything over about 60 psi on my system pressure gauge, I would add the inlet hose pressure regulator that I do carry with me. My RV water pressure does not increase significantly with water heating because I have an accumulator tank that will absorb the water volume increase.

Rob

[howson]

I have never encountered a park with 100 psi water pressure .

I have -- Stone Mountain RV Park in Atlanta. Huge sign at check-in with a warning about the requirement to use a regulator. The pressure from the park's spigot was truly unbelievable.

[Country Campers]

Know that I have the pressure gauge I can check a couple places we stay. At some of the places I will get a drip or 2 on the back of the Nautilus panel, if I install my brass regulator the drip goes away. This is the main reason I purchased a gauge, also to connect to the low point drain if I have an issue or want to check the pressure on the RV side of things. It will also come in handy if another owner is having an issue. With the brass inline regulator we have always had enough pressure for what we need.

Apologies to Rob, Cate&Rob , I did not mean that you were saying that "everyone needed" this a water pressure regulator with gauge, it is handy though to have one.

Brian

[CaptainJustice]

Know that I have the pressure gauge I can check a couple places we stay. At some of the places I will get a drip or 2 on the back of the Nautilus panel, if I install my brass regulator the drip goes away. This is the main reason I purchased a gauge, also to connect to the low point drain if I have an issue or want to check the pressure on the RV side of things. It will also come in handy if another owner is having an issue. With the brass inline regulator we have always had enough pressure for what we need.

Apologies to Rob, Cate&Rob , I did not mean that you were saying that "everyone needed" this a water pressure regulator with gauge, it is handy though to have one.

Brian

Where are y'all installing the regulator? At the Nautilus panel or on the park spigot? I have a FW on the way and have only barely seen the Nautilus.

[Jlawles2]

CaptainJustice I run my regulator as close as possible to the camper. Theory is to keep as much pressure in the line to overcome friction in the pipe. I will admit that I have not tried in one location various setups, but I have been known to put the regulator wherever it may be convenient. Sometimes it's the spigot, sometimes at the water softener. Usually I run it post softener and just outside the bay to minimize the possibly of water leaking.

[Country Campers]

Where are y'all installing the regulator? At the Nautilus panel or on the park spigot? I have a FW on the way and have only barely seen the Nautilus.

I usually put it close to the RV but I do not think that it matters. I put a inline filter at the spigot and then the hose to the RV. I also use the Camco brass inline regulator and not the adjustable regulator, this keeps pressure at about 40-45 psi which works well for us and keeps the "drips" down in the plumbing system.

Brian

[Scott'n'Wendy]

to overcome friction in the pipe.

Engineers.......

[Cate&Rob]

An inlet pressure regulator is a flow restriction that you don’t want at most campgrounds. Your RV water system will experience pressure rise far above the inlet pressure due to water heating. This is discussed in detail elsewhere on this forum. I monitor park pressure with my system pressure gauge when first connected. On the rare occasion that park pressure is high, I put the pressure regulator at the park spigot to protect my filter and hose as well.

Rob