Water heater low point drain leak

[Bigdog3162]

Hello, my water heater has a short threaded pipe at the bottom of the unit that is capped with a large clear plastic hex nut (?!) One of the GD videos I saw indicated this may be the "low point drain". It is dripping at a rate of 1 per 2 seconds. I can't seem to tighten that plastic nut and I fear stripping it. See photo for location at bottom mid-left. Has anyone dealt with this before? How should I fix it? Replace with brass cap and Teflon tape?
thank you

[StephenO]

That would be considered the 'low point drain' of the water heater, not to be confused with the low point drain of the trailer itself. They both help drain the plumbing system, but the low point drain on the heater would only drain the water heater, and the other would help drain the system.

The one time the nylon drain plug was leaking on our system was after I had 'summer-ized' our system for the upcoming season and apparently didn't use enough Teflon tape. I simply removed the plug, wrapped it with fresh tape using more turns, and reinstalled. Was good to go.

You can buy new nylon plugs, and I use a fresh new one each year.

[howson]

Bigdog3162 -- what GD do you have? (Please fill out your signature line!) https://gdrvowners.com/forum/gdrv4li...-to-your-posts

Did you do any maintenance (pull the plug to drain the tank?) prior to it leaking?

[DarnDave]

Bigdog3162 that is an atwood water heater with an aluminum water tank. Do NOT be tempted to change the plug material. (This is not a new issue) A metal plug will potentially seize in the aluminum threads. I have had several of these over the years, and prefer them to the suburban and its anode rod. I have never needed teflon tape. Try giving it another quarter turn. If it still leaks, replace it. Make sure the water heater is off, and cool to the touch before messing with the plug.

Dave

[Bigdog3162]

Thanks. The RV was new and winterized. I performed no maintenance but I flushed everything and put bypasses back to normal, burped pressure valve to insure water present, so I could test the gas/electric function of the WH. I plan to sanitize this weekend. Would have done it sooner but the gravity feed fresh tank inlet tube on the side is practically horizontal in the initialsegment (?!) So my plastic funnel stuck out sideways (ha) and my hose wouldn't reach for a direct hose feed option. Lessons learned every day! I just ordered one of those tank filler hose attachments with a shutoff lever, only because I didn't have an old pc of hose to use to make my own.

copy on NOT using a metal cap on the drain pipe stem. I did find some replacement plastic caps online that I will try.
thanks

[StephenO]

Bigdog3162

Our gravity fill pipe is fairly horizontal too, so getting the bleach solution for sanitizing can be a treat. What I have been doing lately is using a watering can with a really long and narrow spout. That allows me to mix the bleach solution in the container and then 'easily' pour the water into the gravity fill spout. I've read others have used a small funnel to pour the measured amount of bleach into a fresh water hose, and fill from there.

[NoPeeking]

You can buy new nylon plugs, and I use a fresh new one each year.

For whatever reason I can't source the nylon cap in my area. Lots of brass, no nylon. My dealer is even a no go. Can someone post a link to where you were able to find them? Many thanks,

Mike

[familytruckster4]

Since you have to replace it anyways you should consider placing a valve on it so that it can be drained after each use (preventing stagnant water in your tank)
All of the parts are available at your local home center.
I have put on on my last 3 trailers but someone on here posted theirs on a thread and I liked it better.

[StephenO]

For whatever reason I can't source the nylon cap in my area. Lots of brass, no nylon. My dealer is even a no go. Can someone post a link to where you were able to find them? Many thanks,

Mike

I found my last batch of them at Princess Auto, which I believe depending on your locale could be pronounced "Princess Auto" or "Harbour Freight"

Okay, that was lame, but try searching for Camco Water Heater plug. TBH, I think they are just a standard 1/2"NPT fitting and some hardware stores maybe have them, just listed differently.

[NoPeeking]

StephenO - Thanks, I tried the big box boxes, but not Princess Auto... I'll try them. The Camco "plugs" are prevalent, but the "caps", as in the OP's photo, seem quite elusive.

familytruckster4 - Valving the drain is a useful mod. Trailer goes to the dealer next month to diagnose/repair the wonky water heater LP flame... after that, I might put a quarter turn ball valve on it. Be nice to have a few spare caps in the toolbox, though.

Mike

[ncitro]

NoPeeking Here is one on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91857-...s%2C165&sr=8-3

[Country Campers]

NoPeeking Here is one on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91857-...s%2C165&sr=8-3

I think he needs an "outy" not an "inny".

Brian

[NoPeeking]

I think he needs an "outy" not an "inny".

Brian

Waaaay too funny! Yes, I'm an outy.

[ncitro]

Really? Wow in that picture it looks exactly like my Atwood that took a plug. Can you get the nipple out to use a plug instead of a cap? If not, and if the nipple is plastic (instead of metal) then you should be able to use a metal cap without worry of any galvonic issue since the plastic nipple would separate the metals. That said I never like threading metal onto plastic, its too easy to mess up the plastic threads, and you could be pulling the cap off a few times a year to winterize or flush the water heater. I did find this nylon cap online:

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...hoCNTMQAvD_BwE

Edit: If you want to pay a lot more here is the actual Dometic part:

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...hoC4VMQAvD_BwE

[Jlawles2]

Why not use a CPVC cap? Any plastic cap rated for the heat should work.

https://www.amazon.com/Spears-CPVC-F...009F2FFNG?th=1