Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Carry spare Schwintek motor?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Guest
    replied
    Originally posted by Lonestar View Post
    Well, this gets weird. Talked with Lippert this morning about identifying the motor in my trailer so I can get a spare. Seems there is an old 300rpm motor and a new 300rpm motor.

    My trailer is only 2 years old and by my physical description of the motor to the young lady, she says I have the old motor. GD gave me a part number but unfortunately the old and new motor have the same number.

    Now the problem. Lippert says you cannot mix the motors as they are slightly different gear ratios. If defective, you have to replace both motors.

    Is there no end to this?
    Write down the serial number from the schwintek rail inside the rig and call them back. The old model is no longer made where there is a newer model from the new model that includes shrink wrap. The clearance was so tight, I could not use the shrink wrap and had to cut it off.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • howson
    replied
    Lonestar -- only difference I can see is the label. The comment regarding "slightly different gear ratios" is new to me. I thought the only difference was how the wires under the cap were attached to the board--a common failure point on these motors.


    Click image for larger version

Name:	label.JPG
Views:	554
Size:	51.9 KB
ID:	61040

    Leave a comment:


  • Lonestar
    replied
    Well, this gets weird. Talked with Lippert this morning about identifying the motor in my trailer so I can get a spare. Seems there is an old 300rpm motor and a new 300rpm motor.

    My trailer is only 2 years old and by my physical description of the motor to the young lady, she says I have the old motor. GD gave me a part number but unfortunately the old and new motor have the same number.

    Now the problem. Lippert says you cannot mix the motors as they are slightly different gear ratios. If defective, you have to replace both motors.

    Is there no end to this?

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest
    replied
    Originally posted by Lonestar View Post
    Jim,

    You are probably right on the slide system. Guess I just got a little negative because of my recent issues. I've got my slide back up and running by myself by splicing and soldering my damaged control cable. And think I'll order a spare motor.

    Lots of posts lately saying Lippert says no lube needed on slide assembly. Makes no sense to me as to how these parts can work long term without lubrication. I can't imagine what it could hurt unless one was in a very dirty environment causing dirt to adhere to the parts. Think I'll continue to lube as you do with CRC w PTFE.

    I really have a difficult time getting the lube where I want it. Do you lube from behind the outside deal???

    Jerry
    Jerry,

    Yes I lube from outside and behind the seal. I could see if the bushing was a composite but steel on aluminum requires lubrication. Thinking if left dry and inactive long enough, it may even seize.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • Lonestar
    replied
    Jim,

    You are probably right on the slide system. Guess I just got a little negative because of my recent issues. I've got my slide back up and running by myself by splicing and soldering my damaged control cable. And think I'll order a spare motor.

    Lots of posts lately saying Lippert says no lube needed on slide assembly. Makes no sense to me as to how these parts can work long term without lubrication. I can't imagine what it could hurt unless one was in a very dirty environment causing dirt to adhere to the parts. Think I'll continue to lube as you do with CRC w PTFE.

    I really have a difficult time getting the lube where I want it. Do you lube from behind the outside deal???

    Jerry

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest
    replied
    Originally posted by Lonestar View Post

    I agree about a clever design but there has to be an even better design where the motors could be accessed more easily. Definitely better access to the motor screw.

    It seems that since the Schwintek system has now been used in trailers for several years, there would have been some attempt to make them more reliable overall. GDRV owns this problem, and they are the ones that should fix it or go with another mechanism on their trailers. I would not say that if it were just you and I having these issues, but it's lots of folks on the forums.
    Even at a couple hundred dollars for a motor replacement, easy access, a more robust wire pigtail and a better motor would make this system the best out there. With these design changes the system would be easy to service and relatively inexpensive. My theory has been to level the rig, and run the motor at the highest possible voltage to reduce current (heat). This can be done by using battery and pedestal power at the same time. One note: With my Lithium battery, the system does not struggle at all.

    I also lube my gib and bearing block with CRC w PTFE and can hear and see the difference in its operation. A steel motor bushing running in an aluminum bearing block surely cannot help matters.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • Lonestar
    replied
    Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post

    Lonestar,

    I believe the Schwintek system is a clever design and if set up properly I believe it could be reliable. There have been two major motor re-designs from what I see and a third mod to wrap the motor in shrink wrap which did not work for me. Clearance was so tight, the shrink wrap could not be used. If the larger slides are failing, it may be best that they all utilize the 500:1 units rather than the 300:1 units like I have on the large slide on the Imagine.
    Failures can vary where my unit after being serviced twice and checked our by the GD repair center failed shortly after while being retracted and it would not move without a couple large fellows pushing on it to gain access to the motor attachment screw. A better method from GDRV to access this screw should be done asap and Lippert should be working to provide better longevity to the system before its reputation is beyond repair. But there is always that old technique of providing those improvements and calling it something different.

    Two failure modes stand out. Torn or chafed wires at the motor or a failed motor.

    Jim
    I agree about a clever design but there has to be an even better design where the motors could be accessed more easily. Definitely better access to the motor screw.

    It seems that since the Schwintek system has now been used in trailers for several years, there would have been some attempt to make them more reliable overall. GDRV owns this problem, and they are the ones that should fix it or go with another mechanism on their trailers. I would not say that if it were just you and I having these issues, but it's lots of folks on the forums.

    Leave a comment:


  • d2reid
    replied
    Originally posted by Lonestar View Post
    What procedure did you use to retract your slide?
    .
    The first one an RV tech found the broken wire and held the wire in place with a his finger while I operated the slide. He got shocked a couple of times.

    The second one I pulled the truck up next to the slide in a way that I could stand on the bed rail and get my legs and shoulder into the process while my wife "bumped" the other motor. She would slide it with the motor about an inch, I would struggle to catch up. Very slow.

    Third time I removed the motor and was able to just tug from the inside while my wife operated the slide control.

    Three failures in four years. I can't say that I am a fan of Schwintek slides. Guest comment about "and if properly set up" rings a bell for me. My left front slide is my problem child. I have ongoing issues with it. While my bedroom slide has been trouble free.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest
    replied
    Originally posted by Lonestar View Post
    Jim,

    That's a good point, however I wonder if Lippert is constantly changing the design. With the number of failures still going on, it doesn't appear any improvements are going on.

    With all the junk components being used, GD included, you got to wonder what's going on. Is the small motor just under too much stress? I know it produces a lot of torque, so does that shorten the lifespan?

    The old conventional electric through the frame units would last a long time, and offered the benefits of a manual crank in case of failure. Too bad Schwintek had to come along and ruin that.
    Lonestar,

    I believe the Schwintek system is a clever design and if set up properly I believe it could be reliable. There have been two major motor re-designs from what I see and a third mod to wrap the motor in shrink wrap which did not work for me. Clearance was so tight, the shrink wrap could not be used. If the larger slides are failing, it may be best that they all utilize the 500:1 units rather than the 300:1 units like I have on the large slide on the Imagine.
    Failures can vary where my unit after being serviced twice and checked our by the GD repair center failed shortly after while being retracted and it would not move without a couple large fellows pushing on it to gain access to the motor attachment screw. A better method from GDRV to access this screw should be done asap and Lippert should be working to provide better longevity to the system before its reputation is beyond repair. But there is always that old technique of providing those improvements and calling it something different.

    Two failure modes stand out. Torn or chafed wires at the motor or a failed motor.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • Lonestar
    replied
    Originally posted by d2reid View Post
    I have replaced 3 motor's. Each time I was able to get a new motor in a timely manor. I have also retracted a slide with one motor out. As a result I don't carry a spare. I figure if it goes out while boondocking I will just retract the slide manually and put a 2x4 to hold it in.
    What procedure did you use to retract your slide?

    I pulled the "bad motor" cable lead off the controller then had 3 guys help me push the slide in. I already had all power (AC and DC) disconnected from the trailer, but Lippert still said disconnect the lead. I strongly questioned that but complied anyway, and we got the slide back in the trailer.

    After that, I just reconnected the lead to activate the motor brake, and had no trouble on the way home with the slide moving.

    A mobile tech I called said the bad motor would have to be removed the retract the slide. Glad I did not have to do that, but now after getting into the slide mechanism, I could do that if absolutely necessary. I probably would have to do that if I didn't have any help to push the slide in.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lonestar
    replied
    Jim,

    That's a good point, however I wonder if Lippert is constantly changing the design. With the number of failures still going on, it doesn't appear any improvements are going on.

    With all the junk components being used, GD included, you got to wonder what's going on. Is the small motor just under too much stress? I know it produces a lot of torque, so does that shorten the lifespan?

    The old conventional electric through the frame units would last a long time, and offered the benefits of a manual crank in case of failure. Too bad Schwintek had to come along and ruin that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest
    replied
    Originally posted by d2reid View Post
    I have replaced 3 motor's. Each time I was able to get a new motor in a timely manor. I have also retracted a slide with one motor out. As a result I don't carry a spare. I figure if it goes out while boondocking I will just retract the slide manually and put a 2x4 to hold it in.
    Dallas, with that track record I'm betting you will be replacing a fourth motor. One issue with stocking a motor in the unit is not having the advantage of a latest design change. And man do they need a design change. I had a gear box failure and pushing the slide all the way in may not have been possible without disconnecting the motor.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • d2reid
    replied
    I have replaced 3 motor's. Each time I was able to get a new motor in a timely manor. I have also retracted a slide with one motor out. As a result I don't carry a spare. I figure if it goes out while boondocking I will just retract the slide manually and put a 2x4 to hold it in.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest
    replied
    Originally posted by Lonestar View Post
    Thanks Jim,

    I recently had an issue I thought was a motor, but turned out to be a harness that slipped out the frame and was chewed up by the tire. Got me thinking about the possibility of needing a motor on the spur of the minute.

    I'm going to repair the harness. I cannot believe they charge $70 for a 20' small wire 5 conductor cable.

    Jerry
    Here is a 25ft cable. Still not cheap.

    https://www.camperid.com/lippert/25-...pn-238991.html

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • Lonestar
    replied
    Thanks Jim,

    I recently had an issue I thought was a motor, but turned out to be a harness that slipped out the frame and was chewed up by the tire. Got me thinking about the possibility of needing a motor on the spur of the minute.

    I'm going to repair the harness. I cannot believe they charge $70 for a 20' small wire 5 conductor cable.

    Jerry

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X