Odd Slide Issue

[Todd_P]

I agree that the screw needs to change but the type of drive head really has no impact on the fastening ability and maximum allowable torque of the screw. I feel that a more appropriate wood screw would be better than a drill point which is more common to metal fastening and at the least should be larger than a #10. The drill point is nice for rapid manufacturing and when going through multiple different materials in one operation (in my trailers case - aluminum>fiberglass>aluminum>wood). Wood screws hold well in silver maple (aluminum) stuffed with wood but pre-drilling is necessary and would negatively impact manufacturing process speeds so I don't ever expect the industry to change.

[Guest]

I agree that the screw needs to change but the type of drive head really has no impact on the fastening ability and maximum allowable torque of the screw. I feel that a more appropriate wood screw would be better than a drill point which is more common to metal fastening and at the least should be larger than a #10. The drill point is nice for rapid manufacturing and when going through multiple different materials in one operation (in my trailers case - aluminum>fiberglass>aluminum>wood). Wood screws hold well in silver maple (aluminum) stuffed with wood but pre-drilling is necessary and would negatively impact manufacturing process speeds so I don't ever expect the industry to change.

Agree but star head screws will handle more torque than a Philips head for impact use where they are most likely higher quality steel. It looks like the original screws are self drilling which would be used for sheet metal. If there is aluminum framing underneath, a wood to metal screw would be best to use. For all wood, a self tapping screw would be best rather than a self drilling screw.

A larger screw for impact use is certainly better as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4mddFpR1NU

Jim

[Todd_P]

Impact drivers are far to aggressive for small hardware such as this, even a grade 8 1/4-20 bolt shears easily with an impact. I am not particularly fond of Phillips screws because they do cam out easy but they are hard to beat in an automated feed process. A quality drill motor with the slip clutch set properly to the necessary fastener torque spec is a good option for rapid small screw installation of course the manufacturing environment and the field or dealer environment are not the same. I typically only use impacts for removal and that as the second to last resort reserving turning especially stubborn ones to liquid as the last.

[Guest]

Impact drivers are far to aggressive for small hardware such as this, even a grade 8 1/4-20 bolt shears easily with an impact. I am not particularly fond of Phillips screws because they do cam out easy but they are hard to beat in an automated feed process. A quality drill motor with the slip clutch set properly to the necessary fastener torque spec is a good option for rapid small screw installation of course the manufacturing environment and the field or dealer environment are not the same. I typically only use impacts for removal and that as the second to last resort reserving turning especially stubborn ones to liquid as the last.

Agree. You did a great job to correct this issue but its disturbing to see all those broken screws. I believe a self drilling screw in wood cannot properly clear the channel and as a result may cause additional binding of the screw. The proper screw of high quality would prevent this issue.

Jim

[Guest]

Todd_P Todd,

Did any of the screw by chance break off on removal? If so it could be galvanic corrosion weakening the screws.

Jim

[Todd_P]

Todd_P Todd,

Did any of the screw by chance break off on removal? If so it could be galvanic corrosion weakening the screws.

Jim

Not from what I could tell as the broken ones never gave any resistance and all of the sheared surfaces were already corroded. There were no typical signs of galvanic corrosion such as swelling, salting, or powdering.

[Guest]

Not from what I could tell as the broken ones never gave any resistance and all of the sheared surfaces were already corroded. There were no typical signs of galvanic corrosion such as swelling, salting, or powdering.

Looking these over to reduce or eliminate corrosion that may eventually occur.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...4748/204276103

Jim

[Todd_P]

Just make sure to check your clearances on the gear tracks with that under the screw head, they sure didn't leave much space and you don't want to hit one of the GIB's. For tight clearance some silicone under the head will work, for the rest...those washers are what GD should have used to begin with. Wish I would have thought about that before using silicone on everything!

[Lonestar]

You have to remove or disengage the motor, remove the upper and lower gear tracks from the column, set the notched end of tracks against the gears and turn them in together. It helps if you have an assistant but can be accomplished with one person if you get creative.

.

OK thanks for the explanation. I'll also watch the video Jim mentioned. I'm not having any issues at this time, but I've tried to learn as much about the system as I can (just in case).

You said you sealed all the exterior screws. Just in the gear tracks, or others as well??

[Todd_P]

I sealed every screw on the exterior of the trailer.