303RLS Reflection Slide Out Doesn't Work

[BillAck]

Hi everyone,

My wife and I recently took our Grand Design Reflection 303RLS out camping. It is one years old. Two of the slides (Slide 1 & Slide 2) are not extending outwards -- they make a grinding sound but will not extend. It seems to usually happen after we have driven in quite a bit of rain. If we leave the trailer alone for a while, the slides often work and do slide back in with no issue. We tried with the RV connected to battery and to an electrical outlet and we also tried both the switches inside, on the app, and on the screen underneath in the trailer belly. It didn't work using any method.

Any one ever have a similar issue or have any recommendations?

Thnx

[Country Campers]

You may want to clean the tube on both slides when fully extended, these are the acutaor tubes the move the slide.

Brian

[Scott'n'Wendy]

1 and 2 are a lot heavier than than 3. Perhaps your battery is not fully charged? I'm saying this because you say if you leave it a while...you're often ok. Perhaps battery charging after a bit of time?

[howson]

BillAck -- continuing on with Scott'n'Wendy 's thought process, can you measure the battery voltage (you'll need a multimeter and know how to use it) both when NOT moving the slide and then again while attempting to move the slide?

[FlyStar]

So. If the problem remains even on shore power then it’s probably not the batteries. But. Agree that a voltage check is in order to rule this out. Also. Check to make sure your slides are not over traveling when retracted. To check this, use the app and retract the slide while watching from the outside. As soon as the slide squares up and contacts the seal, stop the slide. Then check underneath and make sure the stop can is touching the frame. If not, adjust it to close the gap so the slide stops at this position via the stop can. Also. Spray some of that slide seal lube/conditioner on the seals all around to help keep them from sticking.

[Cate&Rob]

The converter will not likely be able to supply the amperage draw of the slide motor . . . particularly if the slide is binding. Thus, some power from the battery will be required. If the battery is already low, this will be drawing additional power from the converter. I would agree with the theory that this may be a battery problem. It would be a good idea to have a load test on the battery. Either with a portable tester or by taking the battery to a location that has a tester.

Rob

[Scott'n'Wendy]

So. If the problem remains even on shore power then it’s probably not the batteries.

FYI...Shore power cannot supply the power needed to move big slides by itself, still needs battery. Slides move on 12v.

[FlyStar]

Interesting. I routinely run my slides in and out on shore power with the batteries totally disconnected. Works fine in my case. Never thought that I might be over stressing the converter or the motors by doing so. Hmm.

[FlyStar]

My WFCO 9855 converter is rated at 55 amps. The Lippert in frame slide motor is 15 amps. I’m thinking I’m thinking a mechanical slide and this may be a hydraulic problem. My bad. Sorry.

[Jlawles2]

OP stated grinding. Can you confirm if it's grinding or a ratcheting?

Check your seal areas for signs of adhesives that could be causing issues. Also check the general area around the interface from the slides to the frame openings.

How long does the unit need to sit before the slides will work?

[Bob L]

I had a similar experience with my 303RLS. It was rectified by connecting to shore power and allowing some charge of the battery. One problem with mine, and I assume yours, is that I have a 12v refrigerator that I tend to leave running. This can drain a battery down. I even checked my entire truck to see if there was a problem with the power generated at the connection point with the trailer. What I have done now is add an additional battery (should never have had just one in a fifth wheel) and make certain that my unit remains connected to electric power when not in use in order to maintain a full charge of the batteries. No problems ever since. The power issue described was not only impacting my slides, but also my ability to run the features of the auto-level panel.

[David_swnsn]

So. If the problem remains even on shore power then it’s probably not the batteries. But. Agree that a voltage check is in order to rule this out. Also. Check to make sure your slides are not over traveling when retracted. To check this, use the app and retract the slide while watching from the outside. As soon as the slide squares up and contacts the seal, stop the slide. Then check underneath and make sure the stop can is touching the frame. If not, adjust it to close the gap so the slide stops at this position via the stop can. Also. Spray some of that slide seal lube/conditioner on the seals all around to help keep them from sticking.

Actually, if the battery is dead the shore power charger will give all of its current to the battery with nothing (or little) left to move the slides. A good way to test that is to disconnect the battery and then connect shore power and try to move the slides. If the slides move without the battery, then the issue is the battery.


David
Tow Vehicle 2022 Ford F350 Platinum CC SRW SB Diesel
Coach: Reflection 303RLS (soon to be delivered :-)
East of Ann Arbor,: MI

[Jomani]

Hi everyone,

My wife and I recently took our Grand Design Reflection 303RLS out camping. It is one years old. Two of the slides (Slide 1 & Slide 2) are not extending outwards -- they make a grinding sound but will not extend. It seems to usually happen after we have driven in quite a bit of rain. If we leave the trailer alone for a while, the slides often work and do slide back in with no issue. We tried with the RV connected to battery and to an electrical outlet and we also tried both the switches inside, on the app, and on the screen underneath in the trailer belly. It didn't work using any method.

Any one ever have a similar issue or have any recommendations?

Thnx

We are missing a couple of key pieces of information here. First, the “grinding noise.” A low voltage condition will result in more of a humming sound with no movement. If you are referring to the ratcheting noise that you here when fully retracted or extended, that is a very important part of the equation and indicates a bind.

The second piece of the puzzle, are you disconnected and level? I have never had an issue opening and closing the slides on shore power (20, 30, or 50 amp) - even when the battery is seriously discharged.

Try leaving the 7 pin connector connected (make sure the truck is clear of the hitch). Disconnect, level, then open the slides. I can’t speak for all tow vehicles, but the charging circuit alone on my Ram will produce the amperage needed to do all of this.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

The op has not been back since he asked the question. Just FYI.
Maybe we helped him fix it...... maybe not. We'll never know.