Suspension Inspection - Six Years/25,000+ Miles

[TucsonJim]

My 2017 Reflection 297RSTS Reflection Travel trailer is a little over 6 years and 25,000 miles old. We are going to be putting a lot of miles on next year, so I decided it was time to completely tear down the suspenstion and replace all the key components such as springs, equalizer, shackles, and wet bolts. In addition, I'm going to add three MorRyde X-factor braces to protect the spring hangers during our travels to Alaska next summer. When the rig was new, I replaced the stock equalizer, bushings, shackles, and bolts with MorRyde components. The photos below show how some of these components fared:

MorRyde CRE3000 Equalizer: The equalizer was showing some wear upon examination. It was still functioning well, but it was very close to needing replacement based upon MorRyde's technical instructions. In the photo below, you can see the rubber cushion wear compared to a new equalizer:



MorRyde Bronze Bushings/wet bolts:
For the most part, I was pleasantly surprised with how well the bronze bushings had held up. In all but one instance, the bushings were intact and still doing their job. There was a considerable amount of grease between the bushing and wet bolt interface. I grease the wet bolts every 3,000 miles, and I'm sure this contributed to the great wear. However, there was one exception. I've always had one bolt in a spring eye that was very tough to take grease. If I jacked up the frame and relieved the pressure on the suspension, I could force grease in with a lot of effort. This bushing was very dry during disassembly and 1/2 the bushing was completely gone.



Springs:
The Lippert Springs fared pretty well. The two springs on the heavy kitchen side had compressed about 1/2" compared to a new spring and the springs from the other side. There was no sign of metal fatigue or a pending spring failure. When under load, the springs still had a good arch. But I'm going to replace them with new springs anyway due to their age and miles.



The spring hangers have all been cleaned and inspected and appear to be in good shape. And here's a photo of all the goodies I get to install now that disassembly is complete.



Jim

[Yoda]

And here's a photo of all the goodies I get to install now that disassembly is complete.

Looking forward to the install pictures. If you can please post how you supported you trailer during this process. Have you checked the axles for bends and hangers for alignment and squareness.? What about inspection for frame cracks - especially where cross members are located? Last question, did you go with heaver springs?

Thanks
Keith

Happy New Year

[TucsonJim]

Looking forward to the install pictures. If you can please post how you supported you trailer during this process. Have you checked the axles for bends and hangers for alignment and squareness.? What about inspection for frame cracks - especially where cross members are located? Last question, did you go with heaver springs?

Thanks
Keith

Happy New Year

Keith,

I'll take some photos of how I supported it tomorrow when it's light out and share them with you.
My tire wear has been great once I changed out an axle when it was new. I examined them for dents and they were good. Since the tires are wearing well, I'll stay with these axles.
I cleaned and inspected the hangers for any damage and they looked to be in good shape. I'll be happy to get the X-factor braces in place before heading to Alaska.
After your experience, I did a very detailed look for frame cracks, and there were none!
I stayed with LCI 2,600# springs. I just couldn't find aftermarket springs that I could trust. These springs did very well, and I carry two spares with me just in case of a break.

Jim

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I'll take some photos of how I supported it tomorrow when it's light out and share them with you.
Jim

I'm betting on 4x4 cribbing.

[TucsonJim]

I'm betting on 4x4 cribbing.

LOL. Close. I used stacked and nailed 2/4's. I got the idea from my buddy Paul & Deb.

[Beachcamper]

We have about 30,000 miles on our 303rls and this summer had the equalizers, wetbolts, u bolts, disc brakes hub and bearings replaced. This was all done at the Lippert service center in Goshen, Indiana. I wanted the springs replaced but the techs there went over the existing springs and said they were still good and advised on holding off for now. I still keep a spare in truck for emergency.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Beachcamper How did the bolts,bushings, and equalizers look? Or did you get to see them?

[Beachcamper]

Scott'n'Wendy the tech I work with wanted me to go to the newer Road Armor equalizer Lippert offers. He just swapped my standard ones out did not charge for the actual part because original Equaflex installed 2 years ago showed deterioration of rubber bushing. With our fulltime traveling I inspect replace bushings every two years but no visible issues with ones replaced according to report..

[StormPod]

My 2017 Reflection 297RSTS Reflection Travel trailer is a little over 6 years and 25,000 miles old. We are going to be putting a lot of miles on next year, so I decided it was time to completely tear down the suspenstion and replace all the key components such as springs, equalizer, shackles, and wet bolts. In addition, I'm going to add three MorRyde X-factor braces to protect the spring hangers during our travels to Alaska next summer. When the rig was new, I replaced the stock equalizer, bushings, shackles, and bolts with MorRyde components. The photos below show how some of these components fared:

MorRyde CRE3000 Equalizer: The equalizer was showing some wear upon examination. It was still functioning well, but it was very close to needing replacement based upon MorRyde's technical instructions. In the photo below, you can see the rubber cushion wear compared to a new equalizer:



MorRyde Bronze Bushings/wet bolts:
For the most part, I was pleasantly surprised with how well the bronze bushings had held up. In all but one instance, the bushings were intact and still doing their job. There was a considerable amount of grease between the bushing and wet bolt interface. I grease the wet bolts every 3,000 miles, and I'm sure this contributed to the great wear. However, there was one exception. I've always had one bolt in a spring eye that was very tough to take grease. If I jacked up the frame and relieved the pressure on the suspension, I could force grease in with a lot of effort. This bushing was very dry during disassembly and 1/2 the bushing was completely gone.



Springs:
The Lippert Springs fared pretty well. The two springs on the heavy kitchen side had compressed about 1/2" compared to a new spring and the springs from the other side. There was no sign of metal fatigue or a pending spring failure. When under load, the springs still had a good arch. But I'm going to replace them with new springs anyway due to their age and miles.



The spring hangers have all been cleaned and inspected and appear to be in good shape. And here's a photo of all the goodies I get to install now that disassembly is complete.



Jim

I have done this same upgrade. I am very pleased with the X-Members. Having the underbelly modifications to allow better service with the X-Members placement in mind is helpful as you install the X-Members.

[TucsonJim]

. If you can please post how you supported you trailer during this process.

@Yoda

Keith - I was out working on the RV today and took a photo of how I support the rig while working on the suspension

1. The truck is still hooked up
2. The front jack is down.
3. The 12 ton bottle jack is placed on 2x4 wood cribbing and the RV is jacked up at the frame
4. Jack stands are then placed on cribbing and the weight of the RV is lowered onto them.
5. The bottle jack is left in place with slight pressure applied.
6. The stabilizers are lowered front and back and have slight pressure applied. This does not help with lifting, and they would probably collapse if the rig fell. But they keep the rig stable from lateral movement.
7. I place at least a couple of tire/wheel assemblies and/or wooden blocks under the rear hitch just as a failsafe in case it falls.



Jim

[Yoda]

@Yoda

Keith - I was out working on the RV today and took a photo of how I support the rig while working on the suspension

1. The truck is still hooked up
2. The front jack is down.
3. The 12 ton bottle jack is placed on 2x4 wood cribbing and the RV is jacked up at the frame
4. Jack stands are then placed on cribbing and the weight of the RV is lowered onto them.
5. The bottle jack is left in place with slight pressure applied.
6. The stabilizers are lowered front and back and have slight pressure applied. This does not help with lifting, and they would probably collapse if the rig fell. But they keep the rig stable from lateral movement.
7. I place at least a couple of tire/wheel assemblies and/or wooden blocks under the rear hitch just as a failsafe in case it falls.



Jim

I like your approach. Just so I understand you have the Jack stands behind the axles to the frame, with the bottle jack still under slight pressure. The rest of the unit is supported by just the front jack being down while still hooked to truck to prevent any movement for or aft of the trailer. Do you have any other frame supports forward of the axles?

Question
My drive is slightly sloped about 3% towards the garage trench drain. In the following pictures the trailer is level.




With trailer level note the center equalizer position.

If I hook the truck up (E brake applied and wheels chalked), keep the front landing gear down to just have pressure and jack the frame behind the axles and use jack stands like you did do you think I would be safe to work. I can add blocking under my trailer receiver hitch too. I only have a pair of jack stands but could probably barrow a few or run to harbor freight. I would also need to build several more 2x4 stands - I already have 2, but 2 more would be handy for under the rear stabilizers. I can also put the rear stabilizers down to prevent side rocking (Steadfast stabilizers engaged too). I also have 3 X=Factor cross members to install too.

And one other question - how did you get the wet bolt knurled sections to seat home in the hanger. I have been reading not to use the nut as it can damage the threads when trying to seat the knurls. With the X Factor the zerk needs to point to the outside - the opposite of what I have now so the knurls will be going into new metal.. I was wondering about removing the zerk and using a large C-Clamp on the wet bolt head.

Thoughts?

[TucsonJim]

Yoda

That sounds like a pretty stable set up that you described. The only other thing I'd do is put wheel chocks under the tow vehicle's tires to prevent rolling on that slight grade.

As for pressing in the wet bolts. I used a ball joint tool. I placed a small socket over the zerk fitting, then used the ball joint tool to press the wet bolt into the hanger. Here's a link to the tool I use:

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00MKU...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The problem with a C-clamp is that the bolt will be protruding out the other side. The ball joint tool has an opening that the bolt fits through. I'm tied up today, but I'll be working on the rig again tomorrow. I'll post a photo of the tool in action.

Jim

[Jlawles2]

With that ball joint press (usually available at the local Oreilly for rent) you should be able to put one of the stepped plates with a hole over the zerk and then use the other with the collar to push the bolt in.

When I was forced to do the repair in a HI parking lot pulling the bolt into position with the nut snug, then using a hammer (really big one helps) you can drive the bolt in, snug the nut, drive, etc until it seats.

I do understand the reason for the knurling to prevent rotation (it's cheap) but why not use a tab welded to the bracket then a proper vs undersized hole and no knurling on the bolt.

[Cate&Rob]

If al you have is a C clamp . . . use electrical tape to keep a socket in position on both sides . . .

(Eventually, I dedicated a steel C clamp to this task and welded an old socket on each side)

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

Yoda Hi Keith,

My driveway is similarly sloped. I get the trailer perfectly level with blocking under the tires and landing gear down, before starting the project. I can't stay hitched to the truck when doing this. It would be really difficult to get things lined up with the equalizers as far out of level as shown in your picture.

Rob