Replace These Brakes?

[TucsonJim]

It was time for my annual bearing pack and brake inspection.

All of the brakes look similar, but with 25,000 miles, I'm not sure if they need replacing or not. The shoes still appear to have a lot of friction material. But the magnets and magnet surface on the drum are a little rough. The wear holes in the magnets are still showing though.

Being I'm a cheap skate, I think I can get by with another year (10-12K miles). Your thoughts?


Brake shoe Lining (Forward)


Brake Shoe Lining (Rear facing)


Brake Drum


Magnet

Jim

[howson]

TucsonJim -- does a drum brake lining have a minimum thickness like a disc brake pad? (I'm only familiar with the latter.)

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Jim,

The brake shoes look worn . . . but still have 10,000 miles on them. The wear on the magnets and mating drum surface is more of a concern. If you were just traipsing about the lower 48, I would say, put them back together and you are good to go for another year . . . but . . . given the Alaska plan . . . you might want to consider “all new” while you can do this in your own driveway with all the right tools and no time pressure.

Rob

[TucsonJim]

TucsonJim -- does a drum brake lining have a minimum thickness like a disc brake pad? (I'm only familiar with the latter.)

Great question. I just looked it up in the LCI axle manual. minimum thickness is 1/16" (0.063). I'm at approximately 0.156.

Jim

[TucsonJim]

Hi Jim,

The brake shoes look worn . . . but still have 10,000 miles on them. The wear on the magnets and mating drum surface is more of a concern. If you were just traipsing about the lower 48, I would say, put them back together and you are good to go for another year . . . but . . . given the Alaska plan . . . you might want to consider “all new” while you can do this in your own driveway with all the right tools and no time pressure.

Rob

I just knew someone would bring some sanity to this discussion. Time to dig into the wallet. And also, I need to find a shop that can turn the drums for me.

Jim

[Country Campers]

There is a shop in Harmony Pa. that can do that turning for you .

Brian

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Hi Jim,

The brake shoes look worn . . . but still have 10,000 miles on them. The wear on the magnets and mating drum surface is more of a concern

Agree, there's lots of braking material left, I'd even double your estimate...but...How do you know if there's a magnet wear issue? They will always looked scraped up, it's metal on metal after all. Is there a thickness or other measurement to take? From my eye the magnets look fine. At least I don't see any obvious problem?

[Guest]

X2 if Alaska is planned, replace. The entire brake assembly is rather inexpensive where this would be cheap insurance.

Jim

[Jlawles2]

Jim, do you have a stock set of brakes and magnets to compare to? If not, then I'd suggest ordering up a set to have comparison.

Reality of it in my mind and opinion, if it's questionable replace for 2 very important things. 1 - peace of mine knowing they are good. 2 - safety (i.e. what's my life, those rinding with me, and those on the road around me worth).

[TucsonJim]

I'm going to bite the bullet and replace them. Tomorrow I begin the quest to find a machine shop in Tucson that will turn the drum's shoe and magnet surface. What I find unusual is that the drums have no specifications on maximum diameter stamped into the drum. Some shops will turn the job down if they don't have specifications to guide them.

Jim

[Jlawles2]

For the magnet surface on the drum, find a shop that does flywheels. that will be the setup they need to use.

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Jim,

Check the price of new hubs/drums before deciding to get the existing ones turned. Turning brake drums is a “lost art” . . . particularly the vertical surface where the magnet runs. Most car/truck drums are replaced rather turned, these days . . . Although, this does not usually include the hub.

Rob

[TucsonJim]

Hi Jim,

Check the price of new hubs/drums before deciding to get the existing ones turned. Turning brake drums is a “lost art” . . . particularly the vertical surface where the magnet runs. Most car/truck drums are replaced rather turned, these days . . . Although, this does not usually include the hub.

Rob

I sure hate to sacrifice these drums to the scrap pile. I installed Timken bearings and races in them. If I buy new drums, then I will want to install a new Set of Timken bearings and races again. I just don't trust the no-name bearings that come with most of these.

Four new drums and Timken Bearing sets are approximately $525. Hopefully I can find a good machine shop that can turn them for $20-$25 each.

[Jlawles2]

Jim, Our local O'Reilly turns drum, rotors, and flywheels. Check with the local parts houses, and possibly a couple of the local repair shops that specialize in brake jobs. The brake machine will turn flywheels if they know how.

I agree with Rob, everything now days is becoming "disposable". I check the thickness on my rotors before taking them into the shop (been told they were under before when they were not). I've even had to turn a drum before because the only person on site was too busy. It's not hard, just takes a little coaching.

If you are not changing the magnets or sanding them, I might be inclined to forgo turning the inside of the drum as the magnet is already bedded to that profile.

[howson]

TucsonJim

What I remember from school is the Brake Assembly (left pic below) can be purchased as an end item--new pads, springs, magnet...the whole thing is one assembly that bolts on.

If the Drum Armature (right pic below) is good (the component with the bearings and seals) can't the new brake assembly just be bolted on, adjusted, and then you're good? (Remember--the only time I've messed with these is in the classroom.)