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Cate&Rob
Rob after sleeping on this I think I understand what you were trying to say. MY brain was just not working right yesterday
Sorry my friend for my confusion.
I think what you were trying to tell me is if the spring eye is out only a little it will cause the misalignment (offset) on the other end,
especially if I fully snugged up the hanger end. I should have left it loose in the the hanger when doing the shackles then snug everything up. Also having to pull it into position should not be an issue down the road as there will be a whole lot bigger stresses on it.. My mistake was snugging this up before getting the shackles in place which caused the issue 
I called Iron Bear again and talked with the service manager this time. The correct torque for the 9/16 flanged Dexter U-bolts is 90ft lbs. He also explained the shift in the spring pack lower plates would have nothing to do with the upper offset on the spring eye, unless the axle was bound up, which is is not. He thought my snugging things up identified what you mentioned on the spring eye tolerances. They evidently leave everything very loose first to install the shackles then go back and tighten the hangers and everything. Unfortunately I did not see that tip anywhere but it sure makes sense now.to leave everything loose, including the Ez -Flex hanger bolt until the shackles get installed - then snug things up before the final torque.
the spring pak shift is more cosmetic than anything and probably happen during shipping. They put them on a flat surface and bang then back flat before install - I am not doing that. He explained the spring pack has a center bolt, but to not loosen that. He basically said don't worry about the 1/4" bottom leaf shifts. Basically to double check the U-bolt torque when torquing everything else up
Tomorrow I will be talking to MORryde on the X-Factor to verify the 40 ft lbs as the threads did get greased during the install - I had pre-lubed the inside of the bushings(and the outside when I installed them in the spring eyes).. Just double checking as greased threads can change the torque needed. Ill post what they say about all this too about leaving everything loos given this was a complete install, not the separate components.
Now do I have this straight now, or do you all need to whop me upside the head???
I fell better doing the final torque including the X-factor bracing and getting the tires on and the cribbing out form under the trailer - then I have access to check the brake wiring up front (hidden by the cribbing currently) for any chafing, etc If OK I will stay with the 14 gauge and replace the Scotch knife connectors with the heat shrink step down splices I got. If damaged I can do either 12 gauge or 10 gauge as I have both wire gauges available along with the step down heat shrink splices to mach. I am hoping the wiring is OK as replacing means pulling my 4 6V batterys and digging through wire looms to find the blue wire and pulling a new one
Then the rear plumbing fix to clear the gray tank, the tank support strap fix so it will drain, insulating the wire runs through the cross members (pool noodles), rigid belly insulation, coroplast, reinstall some lights and I should be good for the test drive. I just hope that glimmer of light at the end of this tunnel is not another oncoming train
Thanks for you help and understanding.
Keith
Rob after sleeping on this I think I understand what you were trying to say. MY brain was just not working right yesterday
Sorry my friend for my confusion. I think what you were trying to tell me is if the spring eye is out only a little it will cause the misalignment (offset) on the other end,
especially if I fully snugged up the hanger end. I should have left it loose in the the hanger when doing the shackles then snug everything up. Also having to pull it into position should not be an issue down the road as there will be a whole lot bigger stresses on it.. My mistake was snugging this up before getting the shackles in place which caused the issue I called Iron Bear again and talked with the service manager this time. The correct torque for the 9/16 flanged Dexter U-bolts is 90ft lbs. He also explained the shift in the spring pack lower plates would have nothing to do with the upper offset on the spring eye, unless the axle was bound up, which is is not. He thought my snugging things up identified what you mentioned on the spring eye tolerances. They evidently leave everything very loose first to install the shackles then go back and tighten the hangers and everything. Unfortunately I did not see that tip anywhere but it sure makes sense now.to leave everything loose, including the Ez -Flex hanger bolt until the shackles get installed - then snug things up before the final torque.
the spring pak shift is more cosmetic than anything and probably happen during shipping. They put them on a flat surface and bang then back flat before install - I am not doing that. He explained the spring pack has a center bolt, but to not loosen that. He basically said don't worry about the 1/4" bottom leaf shifts. Basically to double check the U-bolt torque when torquing everything else up
Tomorrow I will be talking to MORryde on the X-Factor to verify the 40 ft lbs as the threads did get greased during the install - I had pre-lubed the inside of the bushings(and the outside when I installed them in the spring eyes).. Just double checking as greased threads can change the torque needed. Ill post what they say about all this too about leaving everything loos given this was a complete install, not the separate components.
Now do I have this straight now, or do you all need to whop me upside the head???
I fell better doing the final torque including the X-factor bracing and getting the tires on and the cribbing out form under the trailer - then I have access to check the brake wiring up front (hidden by the cribbing currently) for any chafing, etc If OK I will stay with the 14 gauge and replace the Scotch knife connectors with the heat shrink step down splices I got. If damaged I can do either 12 gauge or 10 gauge as I have both wire gauges available along with the step down heat shrink splices to mach. I am hoping the wiring is OK as replacing means pulling my 4 6V batterys and digging through wire looms to find the blue wire and pulling a new one
Then the rear plumbing fix to clear the gray tank, the tank support strap fix so it will drain, insulating the wire runs through the cross members (pool noodles), rigid belly insulation, coroplast, reinstall some lights and I should be good for the test drive. I just hope that glimmer of light at the end of this tunnel is not another oncoming train
Thanks for you help and understanding.
Keith
). The first guy I talked to(Chad) was in parts and had limited install experience. He is the one that ordered everything. Great guy to work with. The second was the service manager, but I cant remember his name.. My biggest issue was explaining what was going on and once he realized I snug thugs up the light bulb wet on. I was thinking of loosening the nuts and he said no - the the threads on the wet bolts are a one use only, I probably should order spares of the longer ones that the X-Factor takes. I do have spares for the shackle bolts along with a few bushings -left overs form the MORryde shackle kit that were replaced by the X-Factor kit.
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