Little braking from trailer

[Running from Gnats]

I'll try to check that in the next day or so, if it stops raining. I'll also be checking the wiring amperage at the backing plate with a clamping meter.

As a followup on the truck's trailer control. The dealer tech was able to take a quick look but ran out of time (ran it in just before closing) and scheduled to go over it on Wednesday. I forgot to ask if he found (or thinks it is an issue), but since he did test it with their equipment, I'm leaning for he saw something. I'll post when I get some results.

[steve gravelle]

Update after changing brake backing plate assemblies sent from Grand Design. I installed them and adjusted them to the point of a heavy drag and backed off 3 or 4 notches for very light to no drag. Left Pagosa Springs and had a vague hint of possible trailer braking. Dragged brakes to build heat multiple times approaching Wolf Creek Pass headed for Castle Rock. Used engine braking and second gear in transmission to get to our destination. Brakes are much worse than originals from factory that also were heat soaked. I will get amp clamp for my Fluke meter to test current, but not thinking this will be fruitful. I am very willing to wire with heavier gauge, but am asking for other ideas short of disc brakes. Much appreciation!

[TucsonJim]

Update after changing brake backing plate assemblies sent from Grand Design. I installed them and adjusted them to the point of a heavy drag and backed off 3 or 4 notches for very light to no drag. Left Pagosa Springs and had a vague hint of possible trailer braking. Dragged brakes to build heat multiple times approaching Wolf Creek Pass headed for Castle Rock. Used engine braking and second gear in transmission to get to our destination. Brakes are much worse than originals from factory that also were heat soaked. I will get amp clamp for my Fluke meter to test current, but not thinking this will be fruitful. I am very willing to wire with heavier gauge, but am asking for other ideas short of disc brakes. Much appreciation!

Steve - When I'm adjusting brakes, I try to set them where the wheel will only rotate about 1/4 turn with a pretty hard shove. Backing them of 3-4 notches sounds like it might be a touch too loose.

On another note: I downloaded the owner's manual for your F150 and it states the following:

"Trailer Brake Effort Setting The trailer brake controller allows the user to customize how aggressively the trailer brakes engage. The default value is "Low" and is the recommended setting for most trailers. If your trailer's brakes require more initial voltage, or if you prefer more aggressive trailer braking, then select either the "Medium" or the "High" setting.". If you have it still set to "Low", you might try Medium or high.

In addition, on page 310 of the owner's manual, it goes into detail on setting the proper gain for the brake controller. Maybe revisit that section?

Jim

[Jkwilson]

Update after changing brake backing plate assemblies sent from Grand Design. I installed them and adjusted them to the point of a heavy drag and backed off 3 or 4 notches for very light to no drag. Left Pagosa Springs and had a vague hint of possible trailer braking. Dragged brakes to build heat multiple times approaching Wolf Creek Pass headed for Castle Rock. Used engine braking and second gear in transmission to get to our destination. Brakes are much worse than originals from factory that also were heat soaked. I will get amp clamp for my Fluke meter to test current, but not thinking this will be fruitful. I am very willing to wire with heavier gauge, but am asking for other ideas short of disc brakes. Much appreciation!

You backed them off too far. They need to drag.

[Baldwin007]

I want to reiterate Rob's mention of using an old fashioned magnetic compass to verify you are getting electrical current to the brakes. Hold the compass near the back of the hub or near the bottom of the lug nuts. Note the direction the arrow on the compass is pointing. Then, have someone activate the brakes. If the compass needle moves, then the brake magnet is getting electrical current. In addition to verifying current, I second Mbopp's comments about the brakes being out of adjustment. There are quite a few YouTube videos on how to adjust them if you're interested.

JIm

This was a good suggestion and helped me verify the brakes were working. thanks

[315RLTSinPA]

I would recommend running new wire. GD only uses 14ga wire back to the axles when 10ga is the recommended size. When I checked voltage on our trailer, I had 13.1v at the junction box, but only 9.5v at the brakes. You need 12v at the brakes to get full braking power. In my case, I switched to disc brakes.

[Cate&Rob]

I would recommend running new wire. GD only uses 14ga wire back to the axles when 10ga is the recommended size . . .

I think if you check the gauge of the wire to the brakes (particularly the cross axle wires) you will find it to be considerably smaller than 14 ga. I agree that heavier wire will improve voltage at the wheels and thus brake performance.

Rob

[Guest]

Here is Lippert's recommendation on manual brake adjustment.

Adjust up until full lock and back off five clicks. You should hear brake contact but the wheel should rotate freely.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ih1pLKHELIs

Jim

[TucsonJim]

Here is Lippert's recommendation on manual brake adjustment.

Adjust up until full lock and back off five clicks. You should hear brake contact but the wheel should rotate freely.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ih1pLKHELIs

Jim

Since this is a Dexter axle, there is a little variation to that procedure.

"rotate the star wheel of the adjuster assembly to expand the brake shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out until the pressure of the linings against the drum makes the wheel very difficult to turn".

"Then rotate the star wheel in the opposite direction until the wheel turns with a slight lining drag".

But it also states that "brakes that have a self adjusting feature require no manual adjustment".

I'd still take a good look at the truck brake controller settings before changing out wiring or taking more drastic measures.

Jim

[steve gravelle]

Update on update.
As we still were not satisfied with braking even after installing backing plate assemblies supplied by GDRV, I dove back in to diagnosis of problem. Where we are parked at our friends in Castle Rock, CO, the left wheels are slightly off the ground, and the rights almost off, as needed to be able to lower the Morryde step assembly. Pulling the breakaway cable from its plug, the left brakes locked positively when attempting to rotate wheels. Doing very little jacking to free the right wheels, neither one had any braking. I removed the butt connectors from both wheels and it looked like the wires were properly wound and connected. I unwound the wires from the axle tube and new backing plate, and discovered that the crossover wires have two layers of insulation, the outer being brown and the inner red, but close to the color of the stripped wire. I had connected them properly but there was a layer of insulation. I stripped the offending layer away, reconnected and the right side brakes functioned well. Human error on my part, but happy situation is corrected. We have all commented about 14 gauge wire being too small to deliver proper amperage. Well, my stripping tool has revealed that the crossover wires through the axle tube are actually 18 gauge. When we leave here for Dubois, WY next week I'm sure the braking will be much better, 4 wheel brakes being twice as good as two. We spend the winter in a monthly site in Kerrville, Texas, and I plan on rewiring with heavier gauge from the pinbox to the wheels! I hope this helps anyone with the same issue.

[TucsonJim]

Awesome follow up Steve! Thanks.

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

steve gravelle
Hi Steve,

Thanks for the detailed follow-up . . . this is the kind of of information that will live on this forum and be pointed to for others who will follow down this same road to resolve similar problems.

I was also thinking to rewire my electric brakes with heavier gauge wire . . . until I discovered the relatively inexpensive hydraulic disc brake kits. An incredible improvement in braking and durability for less than $2000. Something that you might want to consider if you are sitting around looking for something to do this winter . The project can easily be divided into half day projects that don't even have to be consecutive days if the trailer is parked for a while.

Rob

[Jkwilson]

Good news! Cheap fix

[Running from Gnats]

Something folks might want to be aware of. I found this out after we purchased a 2020 Superduty and think it might effect other pickups. If you have the trailer tires off the ground (bearing pack, adjusting brakes, etc) and you want to see if the brakes are working you will be in for a surprise. At least with a Superduty, if the truck is NOT moving, it doesn't provide power to energize the trailer brakes. I've found the truck's factory trailer brake system is designed that way.

Like I mentioned, this may effect other pickups, especially F-150. Hopes this saves someone a panic attack when working and/or checking their brakes.

[ncitro]

Something folks might want to be aware of. I found this out after we purchased a 2020 Superduty and think it might effect other pickups. If you have the trailer tires off the ground (bearing pack, adjusting brakes, etc) and you want to see if the brakes are working you will be in for a surprise. At least with a Superduty, if the truck is NOT moving, it doesn't provide power to energize the trailer brakes. I've found the truck's factory trailer brake system is designed that way.

Like I mentioned, this may effect other pickups, especially F-150. Hopes this saves someone a panic attack when working and/or checking their brakes.

I think thats true for the brake pedal, but the manual brake lever should work even if the truck is not moving. I think it bypasses the trucks computer.