Now the other spring hanger breaks... Ideas for a better solution?

[d2reid]

I abuse the crap out of my suspension system. So this is not a complaint. Rear axle right hanger broke back in October. Today, rear axle left hanger goes boom. Not unexpected, coming out of the campground today I had to thread through trees, other campers getting hooked up, dumpsters... etc. Made a few really tight turns. Love the way the flex systems flex, scary to see the wheels canted left and right. But abuse none the less.

Stopped at rest area and noticed rear axle askew. Yup, broken hanger. Amazed we didn't have parts and pieces on the highway someplace. But once informed, action must be taken. Called around. LOL, ever try to find service at 3pm on a Friday... I strapped the axle up to minimize movement, paid cancellation fees at our destination, found a close by RV park that would allow us to boondock in the overflow lot and spent a couple of hours on the phone finding service for next week. I really hope my strap didn't break the sewer system, it was tight.

Like I said, not a complaint, this is part of what we do. But I do have a question for our engineer types....

Recognizing that I exceed the normal when it comes to tension on hangers is there anything that I can do to re-inforce them so they don't fail under abuse. They are simple, little U shaped pieces of metal welded to a frame, rigid. If left totally in line I believe them to be sufficiently strong. But when you start adding side stress to them I don't think their design quite holds up.

Ideas welcome.

[gbkims]

I'd guess V Clips in the spring hangers will be one idea - https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...aded-axle-mean

[TucsonJim]

Hi Dallas. Another option to the V clips would be MorRyde X-factor braces across all of the hangers. Most people just bridge between the two center hangers. But you know you're tough on them, so the X-factors on all the hangers may be the solution for you.

https://www.amazon.com/MORryde-UO21-...ustomerReviews

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

d2reid
Hi Dallas,

It sounds like you are into the realm of "off road" trailer suspension! This is really going to tax any beam axle design as we can all see by the way our axles twist out of place on tight turns or while backing on level ground! Whatever you reinforce, will put excessive force on the next "link in the chain". V braces inside the hangers and cross bracing would be the minimum. Cross bracing the outer hangers gets complicated if you have LCI Correct Track alignment system with the yellow octagon adjusters. If you substantially reinforce the spring hangers, you should look into reinforcing the frame rail flanges that they attach to, as well.

You might want to think about replacing the beam axle suspension with a complete independent suspension system. If you Google "off road trailer suspension" you will find many different ideas on trailing arm systems. The most common for RVs is probably MORryde and others here can comment on the ability of this system to maintain alignment. There are other manufacturers in this market like Timbren who would warrant investigation. I would suggest getting the installation done by a trailer fabrication shop that will begin with substantial reinforcement of the frame rails that the new suspension will attach to.

Keep us updated on how this project goes, if you proceed.

Rob

[Guest]

d2reid Dallas,

Do you have disk brakes? Do you do hard stops to check your brakes or have you had a recent instance of a hard panic stop? Can you post some detailed pics?

As Rob stated, the MorRyde IS would work or a lower cost system such as the Roadmaster slipper spring system would both eliminate spring wrap and axle rise which can result in crack propagation of the rear hangers. Even on tr-axles. From there motion in all directions wan work away at this weakness. Also good point on whether off road or not on ground clearance.

There may be some members here that can comment on the Roadmaster system.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lea...ontent=Springs

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lea...70-2580-3.html


It amazes me why Lippert does not overbuild the rear hangers on these rigs with such a widely known issue.

Jim

[Second Chance]

One thing about the Morryde..... It reduces ground clearance due to the Morryde mechanism hanging down to about tire height. Not the best system for venturing off pavement.

Except that the trailing link of the MORryde suspension is right next to the wheel and travels up and down with it. The ground clearance at the center of the trailer is actually better than with solid axles.

Rob

[d2reid]

I'd guess V Clips in the spring hangers will be one idea -

I am really liking this idea. Now the next question, should I add them as I replace broken ones or have the welder add them to all of the hangers?

Hi Dallas. Another option to the V clips would be MorRyde X-factor braces across all of the hangers. Jim

While at the Vegas rally 2 years ago I watched JerryH go through hoops to get the braces installed. All went well until they got to the rear axle. There is not enough clearance between where the cross brace went and sewer system. He eventually got his sewer pipe moved and the brace installed.

Hi Dallas,

It sounds like you are into the realm of "off road" trailer suspension! This is really going to tax any beam axle design as we can all see by the way our axles twist out of place on tight turns or while backing on level ground! Whatever you reinforce, will put excessive force on the next "link in the chain". V braces inside the hangers and cross bracing would be the minimum.

Rob

LOL, I guess you could call it off road, but where we go is a road, if you consider two dirt tracks a road. Level ground? What's that. Many times I have to block the jacks to get level and end up with the wheels off the ground.

Good thought on excessive force on the next link. The Lippert Equa-flex would be the next link, and they are not very robust. I haven't researched enough to decide that the MorRyde 3000 equilizer is sufficiently stronger to go through the expense of replacing them.

When I had the suspension upgraded on my SOB they took all the hangers off and built an I beam box, then mounted slipper springs. I am trying to remember if the equalizers where removed, it's been a couple of years but I think they did. It was a tandem not a triple axle trailer. After a few years the frame started to crack where it flexed over the I beam box. I had to have extensions added to the I beam box to stop the frame from breaking.

The main problem is the number of tight turns I do. Most of the time when I have to make those turns it's on dirt or gravel so the tires slide sideways more easily. But as I think about it I have made several very sharp turns and 2 Y turns to escape. I know I am turning to sharply when I pull the brake emergency switch loose.

Dallas,

Do you have disk brakes? Do you do hard stops to check your brakes or have you had a recent instance of a hard panic stop? Can you post some detailed pics?

Jim

I upgraded my brakes to disk, at the same time I went to 4k hubs and 4k springs. While I have not had any panic stops I have pulled the trailer brake emergency system a couple of times. When that happens the disk brakes lock up, but that is at less than walking speed, but it does get your attention, kind of feels like you backed into a tree.

Except that the trailing link of the MORryde suspension is right next to the wheel and travels up and down with it. The ground clearance at the center of the trailer is actually better than with solid axles.

Rob

I still can't convince myself the MorRyde is the way to go. I will do some more research.

By now you all are thinking I am some kind of off road crazed “drag the RV up the dry river bed” kind of camper, not really. We don't shy away from older, tight, RV parks. I do shoehorn my 41' Momentum into really tight spaces. I just thought that was the nature of owning a big rig. I don't keep good records so I estimate we have drug the MO about 50,000 miles in the 2 ¼ years we have owned it. So all in all I think the suspension system has helf up pretty good.


Definitely going with the V clips.

[ncitro]

d2reid Good thoughts here, I would definitely do them all at once. If one failed I would have no confidence in the rest. I went with the MorRyde SRE4000 which came with the center cross member. It was on the next trip that my spring hanger broke, my working theory ties in with Cate&Rob that it stressed the next weakest thing. Fortunately I have a buddy who is an iron worker. He drove out and met me and we pulled the axle back into place and welded the hanger back together in a Menards parking lot lol. Next two weekends were spent fabricating reinforcements for the hangers and I am confident they will outlast the rest of the trailer now lol. As for the SRE4000 I am happy with it, I think the cost was not much more than the 3000 and it included the center cross member. Gave me a bit more height which leveled out my rig with the truck too.

[d2reid]

d2reid Dallas, Can you post some detailed pics?
Jim

Good thoughts here, I would definitely do them all at once. ... I went with the MorRyde SRE4000 which came with the center cross member. .

I forget why, but the SRE4000 will not work on a Momentum. Clearance issues as I remember.

One of the nice things about going to a rally where they are doing several suspension jobs at the same time on different models. You get to see some stuff that doesn't work.

[Cate&Rob]

I forget why, but the SRE4000 will not work on a Momentum. Clearance issues as I remember.

A triple beam axle suspension is a “different animal”. One of the links between the springs is an over/under arrangement. (I have seen this, but can’t remember the details . . . )

Rob

[Guest]

The triple axle trailer will result in rear axle torque or roll of the rear and middle axles. This will pivot the equalizer between the rear axle and the middle axle but as the rear equalizer attempts to lift the middle axle, where this axle will also pivot on the front equalizer. The end result will be the two rear axles carrying most of the load on heavy braking while the front axle will rise and result in little to no traction. Again, the solid mounting on the entire suspension during this action is the solid anchor point of the rear hangers on the rear axle. This point will see the highest shock loads under these conditions where the equalizer hangers can absorb this shock and the front hanger of the front axle is lightly loaded since this axle has little traction to apply significant forces to these hangers. I spoke with folks at Lippert who confirmed this shock loading is the cause of these failures.

Jim

[d2reid]

is the solid anchor point of the rear hangers on the rear axle. This point will see the highest shock loads under these conditions where the equalizer hangers can absorb this shock and the front hanger of the front axle is lightly loaded since this axle has little traction to apply significant forces to these hangers. I spoke with folks at Lippert who confirmed this shock loading is the cause of these failures.

Jim

I as thinking about doing a survey on the FB pages to see which hangers failed, front, middle, rear. Looks like it will be rear, soooo, I will get the rear hangers reinforced with V clips and see how things go....

[Beachcamper]

Here is a post on my recent hanger reinforcement and cross bracing experience at Lippert in Goshen. It makes me more confident about my suspension.

https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...0656#post20656

[Guest]

I as thinking about doing a survey on the FB pages to see which hangers failed, front, middle, rear. Looks like it will be rear, soooo, I will get the rear hangers reinforced with V clips and see how things go....

Dallas,

I think this would be a great idea. Also add details on the brake type (drum or disc), who may also do brake tests with panic type stops or who has encountered a panic type stop and who commonly turns sharply on pavement. It would be interesting if there are enough samples to see if a pattern emerges.

Jim

[d2reid]

Dallas,
I think this would be a great idea. Also add details on ...
Jim

Jim you way over estimate the value of a FB poll. The results are more or less in, rear axle has the most problem.






































































We had a little trouble with fire while trying to remove the old hanger. Seems the foam they use is highly flammable.

The guys I took it to have been doing welding/fabrication for over 30 years. In fact, had a really good conversation with the owner about RV's and the state of the RV industry. He has a buyer for his business and is looking to retire soon. He told me that welding cross ways on the frame is a no-no. I didn't get specific reasons or reasoning, I will explain why I trusted his statement in a moment. He told me a better way was to build a cross member, similar to the Morryde x system, but when we got it apart he said no go, sewer pipe was in the way.... So we talked about a side plate reinforcement. Then life happened, it took so long to get the old hanger cut off that we were approaching end of business day, DW had been sitting in the truck with the pets waiting for it to be done, lets just say I love my wife a lot and leave that one alone....

End result was a 1 for 1 replacement with no additional reinforcement. Will this decision cause me trouble down the road? Probably. But like all trouble while full timing we deal with it as we cross the creek.

Why was I so willing to listen to this guy, besides a lifetime of doing this type of work? In the slow winter months when he is not repairing farm equipment he rebuilds WWII vehicles. His collection of vehicles is amazing. You cannot accomplish this without knowledge, talent and experience. Yeah I know, I like magic elixirs also....










Ok, maybe we spent too much time talking about the restorations and not enough time working on the axle.... anyway, we are back on the road and nothing fell off going back to the campground.