Part number for wet bolt nut

[Lonestar]

I'm looking for the part number for the nut that goes on the Dexter spring end wet bolt. I believe these are called "crush" nuts and should be replaced after once removed from the bolt. The trailer is a 2020 Refection 273MK and the axle is a Dexter 4400 lbs.

I am assuming this is a Dexter part , not Lippert. Of course I can call Dexter for this info but thought someone might have it handy. Thanks.

[TucsonJim]

Those nuts are very hard to find. Rob Cate&Rob and I were going through an RV surplus store last year and found a large box of them. But I've not been able to find a good source. if you get in a bind, you can install a new non-crush nut and use loctite to keep it from backing off. But I'd still replace them as soon as possible.

Jim

[ThePowells]

Fastenal may be one of the best bets.

[Cate&Rob]

Lonestar


I don't have the Dexter PN, but I do have the LCI PN (129767 - see attached) . . . as far as I know, these are the same nuts.

Be cautious using a "similar looking" flange nut from Fastenal or another fastener supplier. The correct nut has a smooth underside as it is not supposed to grab the surface under the nut. Many similar looking nuts have a serrated underside which will unwind the nut as the suspension moves.

Rob

129767.pdf

[Lonestar]

Lonestar


I don't have the Dexter PN, but I do have the LCI PN (129767 - see attached) . . . as far as I know, these are the same nuts.

Be cautious using a "similar looking" flange nut from Fastenal or another fastener supplier. The correct nut has a smooth underside as it is not supposed to grab the surface under the nut. Many similar looking nuts have a serrated underside which will unwind the nut as the suspension moves.

Rob

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OK, think I found the answer. I found the Dexter pdf file for the wet bolt kit K71-043-00. The parts list for this kit shows the flange nut to be part # 006-092-01. The same part is used in all of their suspension kits.

ETrailer has this part available and it has the smooth underside as Rob notes:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...06-092-01.html

[Calbar]

I use the local RV dealer that is 5 minutes away from me. He doesn't sell GD but they are really good to deal with for parts. I picked up 10 of these when I removed my 2 wet bolts that would not take grease. Sorry that doesn't help the OP. But I do understand these can be hard to find.

Rob

[Lonestar]

I use the local RV dealer that is 5 minutes away from me. He doesn't sell GD but they are really good to deal with for parts. I picked up 10 of these when I removed my 2 wet bolts that would not take grease. Sorry that doesn't help the OP. But I do understand these can be hard to find.

Rob

It doesn't look like they are too hard to find as several internet sources have them, but I'll end up up paying 3X the overall price in shipping charges.

As an aside, did removing and repositioning your wet bolts solve the problem?

I've got 3 that won't take grease. I'm really concerned about properly supporting the trailer while I take the spring loose. I've got a couple of good jack stands, and I plan to only remove one wheel at a time, as they are the outer spring shackle bolts that are the problem. I have the Lippert Ground Control 3 electric jacks, and I have the feeling they would do a good job of supporting the trailer by themselves. I just don't like working under supported trailers!

GD will pay dealer to do the job but they are 5 hour round trip away.

[Calbar]

It doesn't look like they are too hard to find as several internet sources have them, but I'll end up up paying 3X the overall price in shipping charges.

As an aside, did removing and repositioning your wet bolts solve the problem?

I've got 3 that won't take grease. I'm really concerned about properly supporting the trailer while I take the spring loose. I've got a couple of good jack stands, and I plan to only remove one wheel at a time, as they are the outer spring shackle bolts that are the problem. I have the Lippert Ground Control 3 electric jacks, and I have the feeling they would do a good job of supporting the trailer by themselves. I just don't like working under supported trailers!

GD will pay dealer to do the job but they are 5 hour round trip away.

Yes this fixed both of mine that did not take grease. Not sure if it was the position because both of mine had hard metallic debris in them. I couldn't see the holes so used the grease gun and made sure that they worked and grease came out of the hole before I put them back in. I was really hesitant to do this myself for the first time as well but was really easy to do. I used my bottle jack to lift the trailer and placed 3 ton jack stands under the axles on the side I was working on. Put just enough weight on the axle stands to have the holes line up. I didn't remove the wheels either and it worked out well. I think with you Ground Control it would be even easier and you have the jack stands. Mine does not have the Ground Control system.

I would not hesitate to do this again myself if I ever have issues again or need to replace suspension parts.

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

Lonestar

Depending on how many miles are on your trailer (BTW . . . if you populate your signature, we won't have to go looking for what type of trailer each time ) the bushings at the non-greased locations may need replacing. Remember to include delivery miles.

Lifting the trailer with the Ground Control system will probably work (although LCI says never to do this). Just make sure that the frame is sitting on solid jack stands or blocking (not a hydraulic jack) before removing wheels or working under the trailer. Work on one side at a time with the other side on its tires on the ground and if possible with the trailer hitched to the truck. Lifting one side by the frame can overload the front landing gear on the other side.

My experience is that the axles tend to migrate towards each other when the suspension is disconnected. This makes it difficult to get things reconnected. Some use a come-along to pull an axle back to where it is supposed to be. I have found that making a tight fitting spacer out of a 2x4, with a longer 1x2 across the top, will stay in place and hold the axles apart at the original distance.

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

I use the local RV dealer that is 5 minutes away from me. He doesn't sell GD but they are really good to deal with for parts. I picked up 10 of these when I removed my 2 wet bolts that would not take grease. Sorry that doesn't help the OP. But I do understand these can be hard to find.

Rob

An "aside" to the discussion about sourcing new crunch nuts . . . When I first went at my suspension mods, I realized that I would need new crunch nuts. Off to the nearest dealer to get a handful. Blank stare at their parts counter "we just re-use the old ones" . On to the next dealer (a GD dealer this time) and got the same answer at their parts desk . . . but, they would order these for me at about $6 each and I would have to wait 2 weeks for their next parts shipment.

(another) Rob

[Calbar]

An "aside" to the discussion about sourcing new crunch nuts . . . When I first went at my suspension mods, I realized that I would need new crunch nuts. Off to the nearest dealer to get a handful. Blank stare at their parts counter "we just re-use the old ones" . On to the next dealer (a GD dealer this time) and got the same answer at their parts desk . . . but, they would order these for me at about $6 each and I would have to wait 2 weeks for their next parts shipment.

(another) Rob

Wow is all I can say!! That is crazy dangerous to re-use. My dealer charged me around $1 for each of them.

Rob

[Lonestar]

Thanks for all the input. I've got a Dexter dealer about 60 miles from me and the price is 82 cents per nut. If I can't get there before doing the work I'll just temporarily use old nuts and Loc-Tite. I bet most dealers put the old ones back on, and this is why I like to do as much work on my trailer as possible.

The trailer has about 3500 miles on it so far so I would be surprised if bushings are damaged. Will certainly check when bolts are out.

I planned on truck being hooked to trailer, and then letting down front jacks individually only for stability and safety. I would really like to remove only one wheel at a time, again for safety reasons. Calbar: I'm surprised you did this without removing any of the wheels but guess it's possible. I have a floor jack to put under the axle I'm working on to lower and realign the spring hole with the hanger hole.

I like Rob's idea of a spacer. If I only have one axle loose at a time, and if the 2X4 is cut exact, this should hold the horizontal spacing perfectly. Being the trailer is fairly new I assume the bolts will come right out. I guess you put a socket over the zerk fitting on the bolt head to drive back in.

I really appreciate all the hand-holding advice. Couldn't work without the knowledge on this forum.

[TucsonJim]

BTW, when I was working on my suspension, I needed to move the axles just a little. Rob Cate&Rob mentioned using a come-along to move the axle. I used a ratchet strap and it worked perfectly.

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

The trailer has about 3500 miles on it so far so I would be surprised if bushings are damaged. Will certainly check when bolts are out.

If the bushings are nylon and have run 3500 miles dry . . . I would be surprised if they are not damaged. My dry nylon bushings were completely worn through in less than 2000 miles.

Rob

[Lonestar]

I thought all the Dexter wet bolts were installed with brass bushings?? If not, then you may well be right. However, it hasn't been too long ago that all trailers came with nylon bushings and wet greaseable bolts were unheard of. Folks ran those for years without ever greasing or changing them.

I will know when I get into the job. It's going to be a lot bigger job if I have to install brass bushings.