Sumo spring install TSS-107-47

[Yoda]

Well I started on this today - got the trailer parallel to the ground. I then measures from top of spring perch to frame. I have a fat 7" average - say 7 1/4" all the way around. So I assembled one of the sets with 2 washers per instructions. They want 1/4" to 1/2" preload . Problem - assembly with 2 included washers is only 6 7/8" strong high. So I need another set of spacers and longer carriage bolts. So I called SuperSprings up and talked to a kid that just did not seem to understand - he kept talking to someone in back of him. He indicated the spacers were $11 something a pop and did not know the bolt cost (I can get that locally, but with the extra height will go grade 8) I told him I was very disappointed that I had to now pay extra to make their kit work. He took my information and said he would talk to someone and get right back to me - that was 4 hours ago.

So if you considering getting these, measure the space from the top of spring plate to frame. If you have more than 6 3/4 inches you will need a third 1/2" spacer at each location.

Ill update later

Cate&Rob Now the good news - I have 4.25 inches clearance above my tires (one was 4") and the spring arches appear to measure the same. I will measure more closely tomorrow once I re-find Robs measuring thread on how to do it right.

More later
Keith

[CloseToRetirement]

Hey Keith,

I am curious why you selected the SumoSpring over the SuperSpring? I had the SuperSprings on my previous 2015 F350 which seemed to work well.

Thanks,
-Lyle

[Scott'n'Wendy]

(I can get that locally, but with the extra height will go grade 8)
Keith

I have been told that grade 8 is a poor choice for a suspension component. With grade five the bolt will bend. The extra strength of the grade eight makes it more brittle and more likely to break/snap than bend.

[Yoda]

Hey Keith,

I am curious why you selected the SumoSpring over the SuperSpring? I had the SuperSprings on my previous 2015 F350 which seemed to work well.

Thanks,
-Lyle

Super springs put more stress on the main leaf - where the end connection makes contact. I had a similar product from Helwige many many years ago on an IH Scout II. I broke a spring at the point of the end connection.

Also I am not looking for more capacity. My primary use for the sumo spring is as a bumper stop to prevent tire contact with trailer floor for when I upgrade to 16" tires. They also reduce bounce and some have reported better sway control on rough roads.

Good question though
Keith

[Yoda]

I have been told that grade 8 is a poor choice for a suspension component. With grade five the bolt will bend. The extra strength of the grade eight makes it more brittle and more likely to break/snap than bend.

You are very correct. I may need to re think. Ill ask the sumo folks.

[Yoda]

OK no return call so I emailed this morning. It appears they are closed on the weekends. I was hoping to get this done while the weather is warm. Well at least today I can move the gas line out of the way, and re-do my water tank over flow plumbing that I so carefully ran through the spring perches. Now off to find the sharlbite release tool. It should be in the bin of plumbing parts I have. I just hope I have enough pipe to make the connections I have work again.

Ill update later if/when I get a response.

Keith

[Yoda]

Well it is 9:30 Monday morning, cold but sunny - no call back yet or answer to my email. I did the gas and overflow line relocation yesterday to get ready for the sumo install.

However I have a question for you all. I need to jack up the trailer by the frame to get enough slack in the suspension. However getting at the frame next to the wheel is problematic as the gas line is right there in the way. I am also leery of jacking on the coroplast as it would be easy for the jack to slip. If it does it would probably get the gas line.


I was thinking about jacking here, but I know I should not jack right at the wet bolt and put the spring in a bind. I can fit a short section of 2x6 or 2x8 inside the spring hanger that would clear the wet bolt. I am assuming it would be better to jack on the end grain. Block would be cut to extend past the wet bolt and inch or so. I am not trying to lift the tire off the ground, just get slack in the leaf springs to get clearance to insert the sumo bracket and spring rubber. I do not need to remove the tires.

Its too bad GD did not extend the spacer channel 6 inches past the spring hanger to allow a better jacking point on the frame. Might be a suggestion to GD?

Anyway your thoughts would be appreciated on how to do this safely. If this wont work I guess I can relocate more gas line , and cut the coroplast to clear a spot on the frame, then put it back.

Thanks
Keith

[Yoda]

Well good news. Mark with supersprings (https://www.supersprings.com) has the parts I need on the way. He had to fabricate the longer carriage bolts. Should have in a few days. No cost. It good to see an American company stand behind the product and help customers out.

[Cate&Rob]

Yoda
Hi Keith,

To relax the springs, I would lift the frame rail just beyond the hanger and 2" spacer. If you have to shift a propane line (not visible in your picture) do this and you will be ready for future suspension work (bushing/spring replacement?) if (actually "when" ) you need to.

Rob

[Yoda]

Yoda
Hi Keith,

To relax the springs, I would lift the frame rail just beyond the hanger and 2" spacer. If you have to shift a propane line (not visible in your picture) do this and you will be ready for future suspension work (bushing/spring replacement?) if (actually "when" ) you need to.

Rob

Thanks Rob - I have to more set of offset hardware that Ill use.

[Yoda]

OK some more pictures of what in the kit. First off is the hardware to offset the gas line. The metal extension is heavy duty metal and the hardware is SS. Bolts are a bit long so I used some shorter SS ones I had.


They provide three of these per kit. Include bolt, nylon lock nut, 2 stainless steel washers and a rubber coated clamp. The on in the photo I happen to have handy.


Offset extension is attached to the gas line. the foam on the hose you see is from when I ran the water overflow line next to it.


offset secured in place using an existing coroplast fastener. The blue pipe is my water overflow pipe that I had to move to. The zip ties are secured to the clamp.



The area over the spring perch is now clear. Out of the picture is a second offset clamp - you can just see the zip tie. In case someone is wondering there is extra brake wiring slack - it's hidden by the axle tube.



View of the offset hardware from the back. This is on the street side, Curb side is similar.

Once the additional spacers get here I will be set to go.

On edit - I had to undo the shark bight fittings on my overflow line using the tool. I had a very difficult time until I remembered to push in with the tool and the pipe at the same time time, and then pull out on the pipe while holding the tool in to release the fitting. Just pushing in with the crescent tool an pulling on the pipe does not work.

[Yoda]

Update
Super springs sent me 8 more spacers and 4 new bolts with welded extensions (no cost). As a precaution I ordered some M8 8.8 bolts of the correct length from Fastenall for three and 4 spacers high (60mm and 80mm lengths)- they arrived today too. Why - well I know enough about metals, that when welded they can loose strength. I will give the welder credit though they did a beautiful job and did control the heat from what I can tell. Right now its snowing outside (maybe and inch) but we have a few sunny 40 degree days in the future, so I hope to yet finish the install. It will be a few days, but Ill get pictures when I will try and not freeze my hiney off finishing up.

Keith

[Yoda]

Well it was warm enough I completed the install. First some tips - have trailer parallel to the ground to equalize springs. I did that to get height measurement, but then leveled the trailer. Forgot to put it back to parallel. This made for more jacking. Second tip is once you get the spring placed and hardware is still loose (partially tightened) slide the spring inward to center it on the frame and twist it snug. Third the supplied blue lock-tight is enough for the two sides if you don't over apply it to one side - dont ask how I know


I found a perfect jacking point. Very secure and wont slip. The jack is in the down position in this photo.

Springs are installed. Spring in foreground is compressed about 1.5 inches as trailer is not parallel to the ground. I used 3 spacers per set up and when trailer is parallel to the ground I have 1/4" to 1/2 inch compression.

Same setup on drivers side. Total install time once gas and water line was moved 1/2 hour. It took me about 3 hours to move the lines - just too cold so I had to warm up.


Now Impressions.

Just doing this took 75% to 80% of the jiggle out.You know the bounce and rocking you get just walking around without any stabilizers down. If I rock the trailer from the inside it settles down very quickly. I was very surprised. So I expect with my steady fast down and locked the trailer will be rock solid'

Looking forward to a road test this spring.

Hope this helps folks
Keith

[Cate&Rob]

Yoda
Hi Keith,

Great writeup and pictures. You now have me thinking about adopting this idea. From looking at your pictures, it appears that there is no "attachment" to the frame rail above. Is this correct? I have been thinking about air bags in the locations where you have the Sumo springs . . . but this would be expensive and would likely add bounce rather than tame it. Your springs have a lot more arch than mine. If you get a chance to measure loaded arch height (when it gets warmer!) I would be interested in comparing measured numbers.

Rob

[Yoda]

Update
Folks I ran my installation by Super Springs Int. Mark was kind enough to point out that I need to tighten up the vertical bolts that go into the sumo springs. In the photos you will notice a slight gap. I just did not have the hand strength in the initial install. I need to go back in and use a strap wrench to tighten these connections. I also have the lower plate reversed in a few assemblies. Otherwise things look good to them.

So in the spring before I travel I will make the needed adjustments. Ill report back after the fix and after my first trip.
Keith